Lucky Phil

You know I didnt actually check the diameter of the shifter fork boss when I got the kit,probably should have I guess. I worked on the assumption that if Guzzi was producing an upgrade kit with a new shifter fork assy included then it would be the type with the reduced boss dia. The major changes seem to be the addition of an accentric and the banana link connecting the 2 gear wheel shafts. I dont really know why they even included the new shifter fork assy as it seemed to be no different to the original one in my bike which had the smaller dia boss. I just assumed that they included the latest reduced dia boss shifter fork assy as a precaution in case you had the faulty type. From my understanding the larger dia boss on the shifter fork that causes spring breakage was due to a manufacturing defect. ie a bad batch, not a design problem. Thats why the earlier bikes didnt suffer. Ciao

40,000klms, its shifting was acceptable but not brilliant, and the lever used to stick for a fraction of a second on completing an upshift occasionally. I had replaced the return spring previously. BTW I refilled the trans with the same oil which was only 1500klms old so new oil wasnt a factor. Ciao

Its a factory guzzi part/kit, p/n 973260900017. Bought mine from Harpers Moto Guzzi Ciao

Tried uploading by various methods from photobucket by the forum wont allow? If someone can help I have photos which demonstrate the differences Ciao

Well I finally got round to doing my gearbox shifter upgrade and took the bike for a run this morning. I'm a pretty hard marker with these things and dont believe in talking up something that doesnt work even if it has cost me money. The kit comes with a new cover ( with additional eccentric adjuster), shifter fork, return spring a banana plate and replacement detent arm pivot and no selector shaft seal. Its a fairly easy task to transfer all the original parts that are going to stay to the new cover. As the photos show the new accentric seems to be there to limit the shifter fork assy from too much sideways movement. The original cover had a non adjustable roll pin for this purpose that gave about 1.5mm clearance to the arm. I set the accentric to give about 0.2mm clearance to the arm at a minimum during shifting. The main accentric was also adjusted of course so that in 2nd gear and upwards selections the shifter fork hooks were centered on the drum pins. So whats it like? is it worth the trouble and cost ( kit cost is $125us) Remember my bike is a 2000 model and I believe the 2003 and later bikes already have this system as std. Having said all that its a definite improvement. Shifting is more precise and solid, shifting with or without the clutch ( I usually up shift from 2nd gear on without using the clutch) probably as good as my Ducati's now. So its for each person to consider the worth I guess. Ciao

Pete I was listening recently to a well known radio presenter that had come up with an inovative design for something and when he investigated the possibiltiy of going into production the professional advise he got was that it wasnt worth the effort as within 6 months a cheap Chinese copy would be on the market and his wouldnt sell. Talk about killing inovation and invention. Ciao

whats this about, ie what parts and why is it an upgrade? New cover with extra excentric adjuster, the shifter pawl, a banana shaped link the joins the two gear wheel pins as in a previous photo on this thread,new springs and a few other bits and pieces. Naturally doesnt come with the shifter shaft seal fitted to the cover or included. Will report on the outcome when I fit it up. My gearbox shift lever sometimes semi sticks for a fraction and you feel it tap the top of your boot after the shift has been done. I've already changed the shifter springs so this upgrade with additional adjustment and extra support for the selector gear pivot pins should shift better...I hope. Ciao

Just received my upgrade cover and shifter kit. Now I just need the time to install it. Ciao

So it went from .015mm which is way to tight to 3.0mm,is that right? Any valve that picks up nearly 3mm of clearance in 1000klms has obviously got major issues most likely a wiped out lifter and cam lobe. Why on earth would you even bother to adjust it. it needs the head pulled off and the lifters inspected for damage. Ciao

That's not a flange, it's a washer. Aha. Well I will try again! I thought it looked like a washer too, but it wouldn't come off... I will coax it off and see if I have a thin walled socket to fit. Thanks! Because the washer is thing the dome nut will have crushed it a little and it will have deformed into the threads. You'll need to grab the OD with some pliers and screw it off. Ciao

No Ciao

I have 2 low mileage bevel boxes and both have play in the front bearing. adjusting the ring nut didnt have any impact on the play. Have used both of them and it doesnt seem to be an issue but when I rebuild the spare if a new bearing doesnt remove the play I will attempt to shim it out with some home made shims if possible. To check whether the play is in the small internal needle bearing or the outer needle/ball hybrid just grip the input shaft and apply a longitudinal rotational force to it to load up the inner bearing then at the same time try to move the shaft up and down vertically. If you can still feel play at the end you are gripping then the play is in the outer bearing,if not its the inner.Both mine are in the outer bearing and from memory I calculated it at around 0.0015" radial which I can live with. I'd rather it be less but it is what it is. Ciao

You are going to be a very unhappy Guzzi owner if you think a leaking fork seal is a "big problem" believe me. Try using a seal mate before you pull the fork apart, it may have just rolled the seal during transport. Ciao

I bought mine fromMG cycles about 3 years ago Ciao

Is this the crossover without the support bracket? If so i'd steer away. Ciao

Hey guys all good info thanks. I'm still rebuilding the heads for my engine but work and family commitments are making the progress slow. Ciao

I believe that although the TPS's differ physically they give the same voltages per rotational degrees so it's just a connector issue. I have a MY15m ecu for my conversion and I spoke to Cliff a few years ago about the maps and at that time he didn't have a map specifically for the V10 but said customers had used the base V11 map as a starting point and it was quite close to the mark. Ciao

Hey Gritman well done. Please keep us updated on the tuning process. Ciao

Yes I went with the stucchi on the strength of that report. Ciao

Interesting thread and ill pass on a related tip. My ST2 had very vauge steering and after I had done a few thousand KLMs on it ( it was bought this way from a friend)it developed an annoying habit of variable front brake lever freeplay. Thinking I had a master cylinder on the way out i was prepairing to replace that and decided on a new front tyre to correct the vauge steering. When I pulled the front wheel the wheel bearings were toast. Not bad enough to be scary but enough to give about a millimeter of play at the rim. This was causing the brake pads to be pushed back into the calipers under diffewrent conditions( so when you pulled up in a straight line at the lights the pads supported the bearings and you had decent lever when you tried them when stopped. Go around a corner and then brake and the lever had freeplay again after the disks had pushed the pads back due to the wheel movement) it was also the reason for the steering issues. Just something to bear in mind for the future. New wheel bearings fixed both issues completely. Ciao

Do you know manufacturer? Agostinis website shows a piece similar to yours, but with a mount plate fitted: http://www.torquepowermotorcycles.com.au/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=111 Stucchi x-over that I have (below) is basically 2 tubes. It also has a mountplate: Yes mines the Stucchi with the support, no issues with mine. I personally wouldnt use the non support type. Ciao

You need to get off the bike more and get some value out of those knee scrapers and save the side stand. Get your toes on the pegs and tuck your feet in to keep your boots off the deck. Try some road race boots as well, those big clod hoppers wont offer you much feel through the pegs. Ciao

Im sure Agostini's will look after you, Ive had good dealings with them in the past Ciao

Well Rich its nice to hear your rider has a lot of experience at the Island because that counts for a lot. Slow steering old buses like 70's and 80's Guzzies may seem like a great thing for the Island but if you get it wrong at some point then its hard to get them back on line. The lazy steering can get you into trouble. Ciao

What, up against TT2 and F1 Ducatis? dream on my friend. Ciao