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Everything posted by Lucky Phil
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Got a great deal on these Mistral Ti pipes just recently.They sound nicer than the Mistral megaphone style I usually have fitted but I dont like the "look" as much.Bike seems to fuel slightly better with these as well. Ciao
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I'd rather stick to the 90mm cylinders.Power isn't the priority and boring cases is a lot of hassle.Yes I'm waiting with you for the pump and gears from Joe.I'm talking to Dynotec now.Thanks for the leads. Ciao Phil
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Well as promised here is an update on the conversion so far.The Centauro engine has just arrived and I've stripped it down to the crank.It has a few issue to deal with. All lifters are shot and need replacing. One rocker pad worn where it bears on the lifter and will need rework or replacement. Cam drive gear is heavily worn Oil pump is actually not to bad and could could be reused,but I have a new aftermarket one on the way along with a set of Joe Caruso gears both cams scuffed but probably saveable.Why do Guzzi NOT have the cam oiling hole on the base circle of each cam lobe.Totally silly design. Cam tensioner pulleys both worn and req replacing The timing wheel has for some reason tried to chew its way through the cam retainer flange,requires replacement. Both cylinders worn,pistons are actually in good condition,ring end gaps around .42mm.Could run a flex hone through the bores and re ring it but would rather renew.Problem is getting piston/cylinder assy's.A business close to me will re nickasil the cylinders but its not cheap.Any contacts and options for cylinder and piston kits would be appreciated. Havent yet checked the valves for guide wear or pulled the crank.Will of course renew all the main and bigend bearings as a matter of course.Will also lighten and balance the crank significantly. The fun has just begun,this could take a while. Ciao
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Looks like the std cans may be just a carbon skin over a SS body. I've never seen this before.All the carbon cans I've ever worked on are a perforated tube surrounded by fibreglass packing and a carbon sleeve only.Works well but you have to be dilligent with the assembling and maintaining of the glass packing because any direct leakage internally onto the carbon skin will burn it in a short time.Some carbon skins have a type of metal flame spray on the inner surface to help with this.You will see this by brown marks and eventually it will burn through. Ciao
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Something people may have overlooked is that wrapping the headers also makes life hard on the mufflers as it puts a LOT more heat into them.Probably not an issue with general road riding with Ti or alloy cans but if you have carbon skin cans then I'd recommend you stay away from the wrap. Wrapping the headers on a Ducati 996 superbike a friend used to race back in the 90's saw the carbon cans last about 10 laps before failing in spectacular fashion. Didn't just happen once and they were new cans. All that insulated heat has to now go out the mufflers and at the very least even on a road bike it will make life a lot harder on the carbon skins and glass packing if thats what you have. The other factor is that the Guzzi is an air cooled engine and in most cases needs all the cooling help it can get.Why would you add to the impost on its marginal ability to cool by wrapping the headers with no real benefit to performance? Add to that the fact that it will eventually look tatty and require replacement and it starts to look more like the "i'm bored and need a cheap project" thing to me,or a conversation starter at the pub. Ciao
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Thats because every time you cycle the ignition switch on with the kill switch in the run position the fuel pump runs and the ECU fires a shot of fuel into the inlet manifolds.Its a pre charge to help starting. Ciao
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Seems like cracking a walnut with a sledge hammer to me. Ciao
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Nice video but by and large not the story.I purchased a used fuel pump and plate assy complete with the connectors still in place and no hoses.Spent 30 min trying to get the connectors off and went to the internet for some clues before I broke something. Found the solution there but i can tell you now it had zero to do with relieving fuel pressure. I've been an aircraft engineer for 35 years as well so it wasnt an issue with mechanical skills either. All I can say is congrats on your current situation and methodology,just dont get used to it because it wont last. ciao
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Of course: that is one way of viewing and one way of engaging. It can be a good & useful approach, but it doesn't mean that other conversations can't be had. Ignoring things is sometimes ok and sometimes not the best thing. I wish that the motorbike dealer who owes me parts wouldn't keep ignoring me or the issue. Sure, he's got the bit he digs (the sale, my money) and he's ignoring the rest. Good for him - but short sighted. That's why Piaggio Guzzi is down the tubes in many places. To me, ignoring the state of things and always slapping on more gloss emulsion isn't gonna hold the wall up. Mostly we enjoy and enthuse. Sometimes it's worth a slight poke to see what's under the paint, don't you think? The hard reality of modern life is that you have to put on a "show".Motorcycles are a luxury and leisure item and you have to appeal to a certain degree to the "lifestyle" and as most buyers will have a partner, them as well. Doesn't matter how good the product this is a necessity or you will be dead in the water with the leisure/luxury market. Once apon a time you could rely on the quality selling the product and generating a certain image,now its the other way around. Not saying I like it this way just that's the way it is. As for the show I would just love to be back in Mandello again an have a look in the factory.The rest would be a bonus. I have principle when it comes to the majority of dealers......Once I leave with the bike they never see it again unless I have a major warranty issue and then I keep them on such a short leash its better for them to treat me well than mess me about. Minor warranty stuff,servicing and tuning I will deal with myself.Generally better to keep things away from the "oil change specialists" that 90% of dealerships claim are technicians. ciao
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Jeez what a sorry arsed bunch MG riders can be.That looked like a fantastic thing to go to. Ever heard of the concept of taking out of it what you dig and ignoring the rest. Sorry I missed it. Ciao Phil
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Excellent! I remember reading somewhere that it would be a good idea to ventilate the cam belt covers [maybe with some fine screen covering the holes?] on the old 4v, as the engine heat otherwise trapped in them tends to bake the cam belts, and the extra airflow thru the belt housing helps keep these very hot-running heads that little bit cooler. Best of luck! OK thanks will check that out when the engine arrives.Will try and do a pictorial story on the process if I can.This is my starting point.I will also convert to the later tank with the internal pump and filter which I have as well for neatness reasons.Cant tolerate all that external plumbing.The object is to be able to return back to original without any difficulties if I wish. Ciao
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I would change the filter again and see what happens.I know it has a bypass if its restricted but its an easy and cheap t/shooting first step. After that i'd check the oil pressure relief valve.May have not seated correctly the last time it bypassed oil. Ciao
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Sorry,yep thats right,Centauro engine. Ciao
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Just Bought an 8 valve engine to fit into the V11 sport.Will use a RAM clutch and 15m ecu (jefferies my15m)any advise and or suggestions would be welcome. Ciao
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Not trying to get into a "who's got the biggest d*ck" thing here but believe me an ST4s is a nice quiet little tourer compared to an 1198s.Not bagging the ST but the 1198 (mines got a full Titanium system and Microtech ECU)is a bit of an animal and to much for a road bike really.The ST would be a much better thing to ride day to day. I love riding the V11,cant really explain it but I do. Ciao
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some manufacturers sell rebuild kits with the glass material and rivets etc.Personally I have always just wrapped the center perferated tube with 1 wrap of 50mm woven glass tape without adhesive and then packed the rest with fibreglass wool from roof insulation batts. Ciao
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I guess I mean around 80hp and 225kg in weight slow.I love my V11 sport but even for a 52yo its a long way from what a "sports" motorcycle is considered to be today. Its just a big lazy GT type of bike for mine....a relaxing ride,and I like that,but its not fast.In fact its light years way from fast. Compare it to a modern "sports bike" such as my 1198s at 165kg and 170hp at the wheel or my GSXR1000 track bike and that is my yardstick for fast. Both of the latter are to much engine for the road in reality but they are the modern yardstick for "fast". Grab a handful of throttle in 4th gear at 80klm/hr on the 1198 and that thing just launches you at the horizon at a rate that you wouldn't believe unless you experienced it. But like I said the V11 is an enjoyable ride and I love it because it is so sedate. Ciao
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You don't have much choice other than ride a V11 slowly.....they aren't that fast. Ciao
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I don't see a real need to challenge my statement. Aluminium has this tricky behaviour, even the expensive alloys are not free of it. The Young-modulus and the resulting 3x bigger deformations are a fact, too. If you don't follow very special design rules or even avoid the material completely for certain applications it will give you problems. Now I don't see where the design of the steel wheel and the light alu one differs. Using such a bodgey flywheel for racing purposes may be something different, very similar to aviation if you like. But then you should keep the same maintenance intervalls as they have them for racing - or for aeroplanes. I at least wouldn't want to open my bike every 2.500 km just to check whether things are still fine, the more as 'being fine' is not clearly defined. Will you then change it as soon as the smallest crack is visible or only after the first small parts have come free? Hubert It needs to be challenged the same as the statement "a bodgey flywheel" needs to be as its a sweeping generalisation.Depending on the original design and application some things can be copied straight from steel to high grade aluminium. If we were to take your post a face value then we should all still have cylinder heads made from cast iron because the aluminium ones will compress under the load of the cylinder studs clamping them to the cases. Also what makes you think the RAM clutch unit is purely for racing?I would suggest the vast majority sold are running around on the street. There is also evidence to suggest the failures that have occured are with the "original fit" Guzzi units which used RAM clutch components but didnt use the RAM flywheel. Ciao
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Stucchi cross over,Wilbers shock with remote preload adjuster,5.5" rear rim,Mistral mufflers.A work in progress.
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Ah Phil, you missed the joke: we 'Murricans spell & speak it funny... No matter. As for the suitability of aluminum as the material for Guzzi flywheels, we can agree to disagree. My point was that there is marginal need to even go there, since one can machine the steel flywheels down to the point where they are close to the aluminum ones in wt., but manifestly stronger to the point that one does not need to be waiting for them to explode. And the Guzzi donk does like more flywheel mass than an inline four... Your point that the use of aluminum in airplanes argues that they should be safe for use in flywheels is not pertinent either, simply because the use of aluminum in airplane frames/skin is a vastly different application. You don't see aluminum being used for flywheels in aircraft motors, nor do you see ground vehicles subjected to the extremely cautious & diligent maintenance schedules one must adhere to in aircraft. I'm just sayin' there's a logical discontinuity in your argument. Even if you do spell aluminum funny! ;D Ok,copy the spelling thing. I guess we will differ on the flywheel issue,but as I pointed out the RAM units seem to be fine unlike some of the original Guzzi single plate units which apparently DIDN'T use the RAM flywheel. The RAM flywheel and clutch assembly weigh some 2kg less than the already lightest big twin (V11 Sport)dual plate clutch.Removing another 2kg off the V11 clutch would be rather challenging I would imagine. With ref to aviation,I wasn't considering aluminium skin structures but other aero applications.The concept that Aluminium compresses under bolted up load and therefor fails as a general statement needed to be challenged. Ciao
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[emphasis added] Clearly an invalid assumption in re: the Guzzi "racing" flywheel. BTW, you misspelled "aluminum." The irony being that as Pete Roper has pointed out, the heavier flywheels are much more useful to a daily rider and don't put the strain on the rest of the components as the superlight alloy flywheel does... Ride on! I was speaking in generalities,but having said that I dont know that the genuine RAM flywheel has the issues that the std Guzzi one does. Peter is entitled to his opinion on the merits of aluminium flywheels,but after many years of riding Ducati's of all persuasions with much less engine rotating mass I have my own views. When I fit my RAM unit I don't expect to be able to necessarily ride the bike the same way as with the heavy unit and if that means I have to ride it a gear lower and keep the revs higher then thats fine by me.That's how I want it to feel and respond. Dont see clutch or final drive spline wear being an issue if the bike is ridden with some sense of awareness. Dont know where you learned to spell but where I come from its ALUMINIUM as I originally posted,but feel free to check the spelling/grammar and correct if required if it makes you feel better. Ciao
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Cant agree with this,there are literally thousands of engineering examples of alloy components under stress held together with bolted joints that last many many years.The concept that a well engineered aluminium alloy component will undoubtedly deform over time and lead to the fastener losing tension and then failure is just wrong. The aviation industry would be in serious trouble if this was the case. Ciao