Lucky Phil

Fit a new oil cooler. I bought one of these years ago as a spare. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/175907905618?epid=18024036452&hash=item28f4eda052:g:CasAAOSwT6pVkuJ4&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4DGoZbS4KMUdszj0ffSVl%2Fhf%2FORfMYgJ158QIY%2FUntggB8nk8nWWkkcFeYpt%2Fp%2BYUW9n%2F%2FJkJ5rCj7O1Cp2VrwiwCBkQxw%2FQvo7VCikAwdWdGdWitVKc%2BR9OS6qujQ%2B9dq7HZyAt1eI6g4Zl3Yd3lDYvzcdXCDgxWk9wv%2BsbkRvzwoiI%2B5p2Oz6jaOUxfdyVm8TMIGIniiKscND5E9RvgHoK7c26a91tKA8xo47wkDKLXllQMoWoATI2FKWKL5yKIfokYtuHHiDegmOFZ5wa0TRDb2eh66JR3qsoHYc%2BwYIK|tkp%3ABk9SR57o--isYw

No because to achieve perfect primary balance in a 75 degree V twin you would need to offset the crank pins 30 degrees which KTM don't do in their RC8R engines for example. They still run a common crank pin but use a balance shaft to nullify the primary imbalance. The 90 degree V twin is perfect primary and secondary balance with a small rocking couple that needs no balance shaft because the RC is minor. Only commonly found engines that have perfect primary, secondary and zero RC are the inline 6 and V12. Phil

And thats why a 270 degree engine like a Royal Enfield 650 twin runs a balance shaft. The British also didn't want the complexity of an ignition system for a 270 or 285 engine compared to a 360 engine. Phil

Personally I'd like to go to the old WSB and current BSB qualifying format where the rider has one warmup lap and then a lap to put down his fastest time. Eliminates the towing bullshit, the yellow flag on the hot lap rubbish and the race grid reflects the true order of who has the outright speed. Currently you can and do have riders with 3rd and 4th row raw speed on the front two rows a lot of the time due to nothing more than getting a tow during qualifying. They then get in the way and hold up the genuinely faster rider at the race start for 5 or 6 laps and ruin his race. Phil

15M. This isn't some magical Meinolf figure John it's the factory setting for the V11 Sport. Your bike is 150MV +- 15mv so 157 is well withing the tolerance. Phil

Here's another image docc, not sure if it helps. TPS in break/sampling points in degrees. On the vertical column there are break points or ecu sampling point's I guess every 2.9-3 degrees up to 29.4 degrees of throttle angle and from there to 84.1 it's now every 10-12 degrees or so. So the ecu sampling points are stacked tighter up to that 29.4 degrees so the resolution is greater I guess. Other than that I got nothing. I'll think about it some more and try and figure it out. It may take some time, lol. Whatever it is you can still get a nice running engine without knowing the high resolution detail with some fiddling and basic tuning knowledge. Phil

Here you go Docc. TPS lookup table in Volts. I'm thinking that what you should see with a correctly set TPS at 157MV at fully shut throttle is column 8. As a computer luddite thats what I figure. The throttle angle values are the vertical scale in hex and all the other vertical scales are for an incorrect base setting and the ecu interpolates between what it should be and what it sees. Not sure in reality. Above my "G" I'm afraid. Phil

It's been done, I've read it somewhere years ago. Phil

I posted for the first linier v non linier graph docc. More general weber info. The V11 sport uses either the PF03 non linier or PF03c (without adjustment slots) linier does it not. From memory. My bike uses the PF09 non linier, a larger version of the PF03. https://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html Phil

https://www.bikeboy.org/ducatitps.html Phil

2-11.9 is 9 break points. In that TPS range to 3200 rpm there is 72 cells. The map goes to 8500 rpm and 84.8 degrees of throttle angle. Sorry about the break point and degrees in previous posts, those are for my bike. Phil

Depends on where you are in the TPS range from memory docc and what TPS you have the linier or non linier. Also there are 256 break points but they are not distributed evenly. From 1000 rpm to 3000rpm and 2.4 degrees to 12.7 the there are more break points then the rest of the range so you have finer throttle control at smaller throttle angles. Phil

It's not about the accuracy predominantly Mick it's about the consistency and the fact that with the throttle blades gently cable tied shut you have one less thing to think about and check and also the blades don't try and follow the TPS as you adjust it. Phil

question is is it an original flywheel or has it been replaced with a RAM unit at some time. Phil

Single plater. Phil

That sounds like a twin plate clutch to me. My single plater is quiet engaged and a slight high pitched rattle (more of a swishing sound) when disengaged. My old twin plater sounded like yours does. Check the flywheel access hole and see if it's been change to a twin plater by the PO. BTW if you snap the clutch lever in and out of engagement at idle once it'll reduce the rattle by about 75% each time. The RAM single plater is the best individual mod you can do to a Guzzi big twin. Phil

Missed out a whole process of fitting the plate up to the crankcase. I hope there's a gasket between the roper plate and the engine crankcase, doesn't seem to be from the side image. Phil

I'd buy a set of these but that would be a "step down" for me. Get it/..."step down" lol. I'm here all week folks. Phil

Rizoma mirrors. I have a set of knock off the same in matt black on my Enfield but they are disappointing in that the ball adjusters are so tight they are unuseable. If you knock them out of adjustment you need to loosen the mounts to re align. Just buy Rizomas, expensive but quality. The top nut came from Stein Dinse. Phil

Forgot the image.

The original triple is painted silver. I went with a stainless steel yoke nut and a black rubber grommet. I'm not a fan of chrome personally on the V11 Sport. Phil

Pull it off and spray can silver it, preferably 2 pack spray can silver. This is why I don't use key fobs or crap dangling off the ignition key as well as it's not great having a bunch of comparatively weighty stuff flapping around under the influence of forces tugging on the switch assembly. Phil

I carried out a few updates to my lathe I've had for 20 years or so. European style QC tool holder, a high accuracy chuck and a 2 axis DRO. The QC tool holder and DRO will make using the lathe a whole lot nicer. Phil