Lucky Phil

Thanks Pete I'll let you know if I need it. I'm collecting the seals and bearings at the moment. I have some seals already. I will need to make up a dummy pinion bearing so I can set the gear backlash and position as well. Should be no problem. Phil

I use Molybond Formula 2.5 available in a 60gram tube. The gearbox doesn't need it because it uses constant mesh straight cut gears and has far less of the sliding action meshing of the rear bevel box hypoid gears. In reality you could probably use a high quality full synthetic gear oil these days just fine. I'm rebuilding a bevel box at the moment and just waiting on a new input shaft input bearing. You now the combined needle and split ball one you need to mortgage your house to buy. Phil

As a general rule I don't fly in anything that weighs less than I do. Phil

Sorry I don't have a code for you but I wonder why people actually need a code for a basic colour. It looks like a non metallic black is that right? I'm no expert in colour matching and I guess for a complicated colour like the v11 green with metallic components and multiple base layers it's going to be a whole lot easier as a starting point but even then you cant just mix a colour to "code" and use it to do a repair. It will still need to be "colour matched" because of fade and the discrepancy between a bulk mixed colour at production level and a tiny amount of paint mixed at those quantities. The error factor is much greater at the tiny mix quantities from a paint shop compared to the hundreds of litres mixed in a batch at the factory. So essentially even with a code you still need to do the colour matching anyway and with a basic colour a paint specialist can colour match without any codes. Here is the paint on my bikes frame parts colour matched to original 20 year old frame paint. It was done by a guy at the local paint supplier for me and I applied the paint,2K. I thought he had a special Spectro analyser to do this but no, he grabbed a 250ml can of base stock and mixed it by eye and it's perfect. I'm as pedantic as hell and it's perfect. No codes or anything like that just experience and talent for such things. Compare the pork chop and front frame member to the original lower frame support. The only difference is the level of gloss on my sprayed part.

As with most things the answer is somewhere in the middle. Phil

Wrong approach docc. That will accelerate overheating. The greater air/fuel burn and friction outstrips the increased oil flow which is of zero utility anyway because there is no way for the oil to shed the heat without airflow even at slightly elevated flow. So when you are not moving there is no airflow to extract the heat from the cooling fins, or over the crankcases OR via the oil cooler either. Elevating the rpm just exacerbates the issue. All you are doing is heating oil that has no way to shed the extra heat anyway. If you want a V11 to overheat another way ride it around at 3-5000rpm in first gear for a few miles in warm weather. That will do it as well. At those rpm in first gear there isn't enough airflow to keep it properly cool. If you ever watch Police escorts on old Harleys and Guzzis escorting a slow moving cavalcade it's always at the lowest rpm possible. If you want to keep a V11 engine cooler in those conditions you need fans on the oil cooler. I suggest a pair of 12V computer cooling fans. Compact light cheap and can be IPX rated as well. Phil

I see you got it flying Chuck, congrats. I'd never get in it to go flying of course but finishing a project of any sort is always nice achievement. Phil

If you are talking about front loading rear seats first it's commonly done here as they often load by aisle blocks from the rear which can cause the weight imbalance I talked about in my first post. I'm not talking about in flight weight and balance. If you are talking about rear entry loading then it's common here.

Yes I thought we were talking about loading pax the a/c so on the ground how it's loaded with regards to passengers boarding can be an issue and it's often overlooked by everyone to some extent except the engineer on the ground as if he's on the ball he'll see the floating nosewheel issue. Loading a freighter is a different story and just about everyone involved is highly aware of tipping the a/c although accidents still happen. Most heavy freighters use a tail steady during loading. In flight you can walk around at will, no real issue. The autopilot is continually trimming the pitch anyway. Phil

I've got a feeling this might be closer to the production version docc. You'd need to check with them.

Noticed Mass lists these. Far better design than the Mistral. Looks like a Stucchi copy. https://www.massmoto.it/prodotto/collettori-secondari-x-pipe-2-in-2-in-acciaio-inox-aisi-304-moto-guzzi-v11-sport-le-mans/ Phil

How so? Phil

So was I Mick. Boarding a commercial jet can sometimes be a bit interesting for the ground crew due to weight and balance of the pax loading from the rear. On Boeing 737 800's I would sometimes see the nosewheel an inch off the ground and need to stop baggage being loaded into the rear hold or stop boarding and get the porters to load the front hold because they were loading pax from the rear and even without baggage in the aft hold we had an issue in some circumstances. Rear boarding first or boarding from the rear is not always an option depending on the aircraft, the parking bay, the fuel load, the baggage etc. Phil

Simple but sometimes dangerous. Have you any experience with weight and balance and the impact on C of G ? Phil

It is. Phil

The total environmental emission impact of all transport, so that means cars, trucks, aircraft, shipping, motorcycles etc is reliably estimated to be 16%. So road transport from memory is estimated at around 9% total. Ever wondered why private road transport seems to take the brunt of the ire for "environmental" issues? Because it's a soft target is why. There is an loose agenda out there in it's infancy articulated by some in influential positions to eventually ban private transport particularly if you live in a large city or regional area. I can foresee the day where you need to have a car permit to own a car and a government agency will asses your personal circumstances and right to own one. If you live in a city and want to do a "road trip" for your vacation or other reasons then you will need to apply for a trip permit to rent a car. It will happen under the guise of environmental sustainability but remember cars and personal transport are a large part of the individuals sense of freedom and there are influential global institutions that don't really see personal freedom as a prime consideration for global governance. I sound like a conspiracy theorist I know but I can see this coming. I pray I'm totally wrong and part of me thinks "well I'll be long gone when it happens" but now I'm not so sure, things are moving faster than ever. Phil

My brother is a fuel tanker driver here in Australia. An interesting fact he made me aware of. The way some of the cheap independent fuel outlets get the cost down is by selling what the industry referrers to as "interstage" fuel. There is a single pipeline running from the Newcastle to the Sydney holding/distribution centre from where it is trucked to the retailers. The same pipe carries all the various fuels including diesel and 91-98 Octane. When they switch over from one type to another it's simply done without flushing the pipeline or anything like that but there is a calculated mixture of one type with another before the latest type comes out the other end 100% undiluted by the previous fuel. Interstage fuel. Sold cheap to the bottom end retailers. I've never been to one of those outlets since. Phil

That is correct Mick Phil

Yea docc thats why I always actually use "Guzzi part" not just Guzzi before the numbers in fact. Forgot the "part" bit. I must say parts are getting harder and harder to come by these days. New parts are thin on the ground and used parts are more affordable but there's a lot of "suspect" parts and sellers out there and shipping is making the costs exorbitant. You should see the cost and speed of availability of RE parts direct from India. The parts are dirt cheap and the service is the best I've ever experienced. Hows $300US for a brand new painted fuel tank shipped to your door in under 10 days sound. Phil Phil

There is only one way to know the required bearing spacer length. Measure it. As already pointed out the factory has supplied 3 different lengths at different times so how do you know 113 is the right answer for your wheel. When you remove the first wheel bearing use a 6"vernia to depth measure between the old bearing race ( provided it isn't totally shagged) and the wheel bearing recess shoulder and thats the spacer length you need plus, .1 to .2mm exactly. Any less than the base measurement and you'll have bearing issues any more than the baseline plus .2mm and you should be fine. A little longer is fine a little shorter is not. Years ago I used some glued on shims to adjust the length of mine as it was only .5 or so short and I couldn't machine up a new spacer at that time. Phil

I always google Guzzi and the p/n without the GU. Don't know if I'm missing out on some sources but I've always got more than I can deal with that way. Phil

You leave off the GU when searching for or ordering Guzzi parts. Just use the numerics. Phil

That's where all my ideas come from Shiraz and Merlot. Phil

True, so to support my logic I would need an arrow on the wall and signage "hole behind" or some such wording. Phil