Lucky Phil

For general information to anyone reading this thread in the future this methodology is flawed and it's best to stick with the historically tried and tested oil pressure observations for troubleshooting. This LOP light on after the kill switch timing thing has way too many variables to be a troubleshooting tool. If the engine runs fine and has no unusual noises and the LOP stays off at idle in hot weather in traffic and the used oil has no concerning contamination then all is fine with the oil system. What do you do on a weekend trip or touring trip when you use this observation technique? Stop for fuel and for one of a dozen different reasons the LOP light illuminates without or with a reduced delay compared to usual observations? Pull up and start troubleshooting and have the engine apart? What would be an acceptable amount of delay? 1 second? 3 seconds? Sometimes people can go looking for issues and worries. Fitting an OPG every 30 or 40,000klms for an oil system evaluation would be reasonable but only for the oil pressure obsessed. It's the same as permanently fitted LOP gauges, a waste of time and added failure points and complexity. All you get is additional things to worry about and questions to observations you don't have the knowledge to understand. There's a good reason motorcycles in particular don't come standard with LOP gauges and only a light. It's just too cruel for the OCD riders out there. Even modern cars with LOP gauges dont use actual direct reading gauges anymore they use an indication derived and calculated from the ecu for the display and rely on a LOP switch and light for indication and warnings. If they used direct reading gauges that indicated the actual oil pressure the dealerships would be overflowing with owners with oil pressure issues. It's not just about the engineering but human psychology as well. Phil

OK, but the question is why would you do that? The time it takes to illuminate is of no empirical value. I don't know of anyone that monitors such things so answers might be hard to come by. Phil

Your description doesn't make sense for the 02 v11. You turn the ignition switch OFF and after a 3-6 second delay the LOP light comes ON? It comes on with the ignition switch OFF? Here's how it works or is supposed to work. Turn ignition ON, LOP light ON. Start engine, LOP light goes OFF. Mine goes OFF during cranking. Turn ignition OFF,LOP light goes off with engine shutdown along with everything else. Any variation on that and you have an issue. Phil

Do you have the injector plugs correctly installed? they take quite a lot of "push" sometimes to overcome the locking clip on the connector. The pump, injectors and coils feed from then same relay so if one works they all should. Is the ECU correctly grounded? Phil

It's the equivalent of someone hurting themselves and immediately getting up running away at full speed. The 'flight" response. If I can still run/ride away from the location of the trauma then I must be relatively ok and I leave behind the "danger zone" or trauma location. I'm surprised the Cops allowed him to ride away. Phil

Bummer but glad your mostly ok. Sounds like that foreign object wrapped around the front wheel was the culprit. Phil

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17183-how-to-color-match-the-guzzi-lime-green/&tab=comments#comment-183698

As I think I mentioned previously there's no problem which sides you have the tap and reg on except issues of enough space to effectively configure hoses etc. When I put the Daytona engine in the V11 I was seriously considering swapping sides because of clearance issues between the reg and the TPS but decided the std way was better and shaved a few mm off the reg holder. Phil

I'd love a scooter. I hired one in Rome 25 years ago to ride around for a few days 2 up with the wife. It was nothing special as it was a hire scooter maybe 125 at the most and it was great fun. I'd like one for quick trips to the shops for milk etc. Phil

It doesn't work. The outlet is not for a 12mm hose. So now you need an adaptor to take you from a 5/16 or 8mm hose to the 12mm pump inlet size over a very short run of hose which is extremely hard to do as you need every bit of flex over that short length of hose to align with the pump inlet. even if you can you now you have additional clamps and possible leak points. Oh and in addition the Guzzi uses a 16mm thread on the tank connection which this doesn't suit. If it was this simple I wouldn't have bothered modifying the original. Phil

The main issue with the crinkle finish is it's by nature quite thickly applied. I stripped it off a gearbox a few years ago for the V10 Sport and in some locations it was 2mm thick. Took a lot of work and many applications of automotive stripper of several different brands. personally I'd get anything with this finish professionally chemically stripped where they can leave it in a tank for a few days. Phil

Your are in a manner docc reading the schematic wrongly. The tank and frame are ghosted out and not really part of the schematic and are just there for "context" not absolute indication. So as an example the pump and filter assy aren't really mounted on the LHS of the frame as the parts manual image tends to show by the ghosted frame. You also have the issue at times of the optical illusion problem of "which perspective you are viewing from. You need to be careful with schematic representations of parts orders as well. In aviation it wont save you in a court of law as they are legally "representations only" not absolute indications. Same for shop manuals that are often made with images of pre production bikes that change and often differ a bit from the production versions. Phil

The tap should be on the left so the odd sized 12mm outlet hose is as short as possible directly into the fuel pump. There's limited room down there and the 12mm hose is quite stiff so you don't need it taking up more space than absolutely necessary and also putting unnecessary strain on the pump inlet with it looping around under there. The taps are a good design let down by cheaping out on the seal material. They can't be disassembled and re assembled without modification. I did a thread on the modification I came up with on these so they use Viton seals which don't swell in fuel instead of the std nitrile which do and it can be rebuilt in the future. The mod also means the tap doesn't jam after time when the original seals swell. using pliers to close them for tank removal puts strain on the fuel tank fastener inserts and if you damage one of these then the whole tank is junk. Phil

Thats correct docc. Phil

Argal, Italian for Ergal, lol. Aluminium 7075. Phil

I love "patina". On "other peoples" bikes that is.

I don't mind the use of carbon for aesthetics and weight savings where it makes sense but here is not the place as it's subjected to debris fling off the front tyre which will negate any "looks" after a few miles. The cover is also cheaply made (no metal bush inserts at the mount holes). I suppose it won't stop people using them though. Phil

Not always, some you can manipulate the ABS module valving manually but if there is no air in the ABS module then normal brake bleeding procedures work as usual. Of course you can always find some deserted road and brake till the ABS kicks in. That will cycle the fluid through the module and run the module pump and force fresh fluid through the module. Phil

As a fellow Aircraft engineer told me early in my career (when an engineer could still use his judgment on airworthiness issues) "The maintenance manual is there for the guidance of the wise and the blind obedience of fools" Applies to translated Italian motorcycle shop manuals as well. Phil

"Is there a concise correct factory service manual" No. It's an Italian motorcycle. Phil

My go to material for muffler hangers over the years is 4mm 6060 aluminium flat bar. Strong enough, will take anodising, formable and weldable. Has always worked for me. For a really long bracket I might use 6mm thick. Phil

The ball end and rod muffler supports aren't a good idea. The mufflers require some amount of lateral and anti rotational support from the hanger bracket, these give zero. When you come up with an idea you never see anyone else do it's either brilliant OR the opposite. This is the opposite. I wish it was a good idea as it would have saved me quite a few hours over the years making and fitting hanger brackets. Phil