Lucky Phil

By checking the fuel pressure. Pretty easy to do and a testing kit these days is maybe 30 bucks on ebay. The filters are a travesty but I won't go down that path. It might be worth removing them and see if it makes a difference but I'm doubtful. It's far cheaper to just clean the injectors and get them flow tested at maybe 25 bucks each. Unknown history means you need to start from a WCS. Phil

I'm reluctant to get too involved with issues like this for various reasons but here's a few questions. Has the bike sat around unused for a long period of time? Does it have any stupid additional boxes added to the efi system like a PC3? If there's fuel in the oil then you've got bigger issues than a simple sensor issue. If the sensor fails then the system just goes to a safe default figure. What map does it have in it? Std? Did you get the CO reset back to zero? I'd be looking at getting the injectors professionally cleaned (esp if it's sat around for a while) and check the fuel pressure and that the pressure regulator is not stuck closed. Injectors that dont seat properly leak and it's obvious what that would result in. Phil

If it's not the filter gasket then the oil pumps lost its prime, happens sometimes for reasons nobody can explain. It's a mistake to remove the sump when you have no need to, same as overnight oil draining. Best to dump the oil replace the filter, fill it and start it in the shortest time you can. A few choices. Remove the front cover and pull the pump and fill it with grease and put it all back together again, not an attractive proposition. The second is to block the crankcase breather and use shop air to put 5 psi or so into the crankcases to help push the oil into the pump or pull the sump again and take a large syringe ( I have a 1.5 litre one) with a hose on the pump pickup and force some oil into the pump with the filter removed. Phil

Ok docc sorry kill the thread. Phil

Excuses, excuses, I did my gears and nothing else docc. Nike. Phil

Looks partially broken at the clamp screw to me. Phil

Goodness me, listening to the clip I wouldn't categorize this as a slight rattle! "rhythmic light clunking" in my book but I can see how some would call it a rattle. Differences in language interpretation. It's a serious sound and I wouldn't ride the bike until I sourced the issue. It sounds like it's a gear selector sleeve catching on the drive teeth of one gear. So either the selector assembly is seriously out of adjustment or there is a partial failure in it somewhere. Is this bike fitted with a satin black gearbox or a wrinkle finish gearbox? There is also the issue of a failed selector sleeve which was covered by a recall on early boxes but if it's an early wrinkle finish gearbox they were affected as well and you need to account for ones that slipped through the net. You also need to account for replacement transmissions from previous owners and just a sleeve failure. It might also be worth looking at the large eccentric adjustment which people fiddle with when installed. It sounds like it's trying to engage 2 gears at once or not fully disengaging one gear when engaging another. It could also be a loose input shaft drive spline. I think doccs had that. You've also had the selector apart to replace the spring. Are the selector fork gear wheel teeth correctly indexed? Phil

Yes and yes. It's a twin plate dry clutch with a gazzillion splines on the clutch hub and flywheel. What are the odds that it's going to be silent in the conditions you mention? Don't worry I'll tell you, ZERO. The older it gets the more the splines wear and the more rattly they become. Phil

Yes it can quite easily. Built it up and fill in the threaded hole with weld and dress it with a die grinder back to original profile then drill and re tap the hole. Pre heat the whole spacer to around 150 deg C and weld it in a few stages to prevent distortion of the sealing faces. Phil

I thought you'd be doing the first 100 hourly on this thing by now Chuck. Phil

Well the seals and bushes are worth $80US or there abouts ,oil about $20 and an hours labour for both. You can probably get away without the seal driver at $30US I found. The issue I have these days isn't so much the cost but the quality of the work. Hard to find skilled people out there that do quality work. Phil

Phil

I'd be more amazed if there wasn't a "slight rattling noise" I suggest you fit and oil pressure and oil temperature gauge to the bike before you do anything else. Phil

No the reg should come out. I's going to be hanging up on an old oring. Phil

Bookends are beautiful Chuck. Phil

Ok cool, thanks. I "think" USPS "priority mail international" is back now for Australia from the website. Can you please check and confirm at the post office and the shipping costs? Naturally as small and light as possible ( Guzzi owner style ) I'll mod the taps and maybe have a charity auction or lucky prise dip or something. Ideas? Maybe a sale and the proceeds to the website. Phil

Those are magnificent. I'm always on the lookout for that style of art deco lamp mooching around antique shops. Even the repro ones are nice. I had a lovely one at one time but the ex got it years ago in a settlement and I've been looking ever since. Phil

It's cool docc, I just look at things like modifications and subject them to the rationalisation test. I've seen people fit mechanical OPG's to the handlebars with a plastic tube carrying oil from the oil gallery under pressure to the back of the gauge with all the vulnerabilities and risk that entails. Sure you can get away with it on a car where if the tube or connection to the back of the gauge fails you'll just have a massive mess to deal with but imagine a plastic flex hose flexing every time you turn the bars and if you have a failure it's hot oil under pressure straight at the riders face basically or at the very least showering hot oil over the rider and bike. The other issue that amuses me is the same people that fit OPG's and oil temp indicators then start to wonder "what's normal" indication. They get a variation or indication thats a little different and they're on the internet seeking answers to issues they don't really need to be aware of in the first place. There's a good reason motorcycles dont use OPG's and oil temp indicators. Its because your attention is far better allocated to watching the road and things that may kill you and a simple effective LOP light is all that's needed to warn you of impending engine problems. Someone here years ago had an OPG mounted on a V11 Le Mans down on the horizontal face of the fairing side so to see the indication you had to basically look at your left knee! Cars on the other hand mount their gauges at somewhere approximating eye level or close to it however even the car world acknowledges the bullshit most engine gauges are with the exception of the coolant temp. My Focus RS has a 3 gauge cluster mounted on top of the dash in the middle pointed at the driver. Oil temp, oil pressure and boost pressure. All of them are ECU controlled indications not actual. So they are derived and calculated indications because the last thing Ford want is the punters comparing and questioning indication differences between owners. This is common practice in the automotive world. Give them gauges to make them feel good but because the average owner has zero mechanical expertise and is unable to interpret what they are seeing indicated and the reasons for variations we just let the ecu present an indication based on general parameters. So oil pressure indicated will be a function of engine coolant temp, engine rpm, and oil temp. Zero to do with the actual measured oil pressure. Cool, a semi faux gauge cluster. Personally my only justifiable additional gauge is a clock. I fitted one to my bike and the location I hate so next time the tank is off I'm moving it to a more discrete location. Why a clock? One reason only, we have 3 hours of school zones a day here and they aren't always indicated by flashing speed signs and are Policed so you need to know the exact time during certain periods of the day or risk a heavy fine or loss of licence. Phil

I've spent a lifetime Scud watching people do things that make them "happy" at the time that in hindsight with a little amount of forethought they definitely should not have done once the consequences had manifested themselves. Phil

Because there're to dumb to articulate or understand the word "warning" Phil

Probably because "it's not a car". This subject is the province of those who are basically "car people" in mindset. What's wrong with you? Your DNA is that of a "car guy". You can't do anything about it I'm afraid you're just stuck with hanging extraneous crap and additional failure points on your bike together with being bombarded with information you in all likely hood won't fully understand and will therefore spend time worrying about. Phil

Yea I agree Pete but like removing the airbox and fitting Pod filters it's pointless discussing it. Some people don't want rationality to get in the way of flawed logic. It's like putting a CHT sensor on the muffler outlet. If I want a battery of gauges to tell me every detail of the engines operation I'll just drive my car or go flying with friends and sit in a cockpit. Phil

Plastic or rubber? Rubber would be fuel hose lining and plastic would be from the pump. It's not from inside the reg. Phil

This is what got me to create the shift lever extender. I measured my GSXR1000K7 and it's travel was 25mm and the V11 was around 35-40 from my dodgy memory. The extender reduces the V11 to around the 25mm mark but just as importantly increases the shift lever effort. Hows that improve the shift action you may ask. Well a higher lever effort via less leverage by the foot means that when the detent mechanism does release there is more pressure/force being applied which translates to a faster action. A week detent spring also leads to poor shift action as well. This is why loading the shifter makes the gearbox shift much better on all bikes but the V11 especially because loading the lever with the clutch engaged increases the load on the lever via the foot which translates to a faster action when the clutch releases the load on the gearbox dogs and allows the foot pressure to overcome the detent spring and detent roller. The effect is the same as increasing the detenting force. The V11 could probably use a slightly stronger detent spring than stock in reality. Another interesting affect on shifting action is gearing. My Royal Enfield has a pretty decent shift action but It can still be improved by the exact same way the V11 shift has been by a modified shift lever to reduce the foot leverage. The other thing that improved the shift action esp in the 1st to second shift was upping the overall gearing by adding 1 tooth to the CS sprocket, a 7% taller final ration. This means that you have more road speed for a given gear and motorcycle constant mesh gearboxes always shift better the higher the road speed. So now esp in the 1st to 2nd shift the road speed is significantly higher for the same rpm so the gearbox naturally shifts noticeably nicer 1st to 2nd. Phil