Lucky Phil

A "racing incident" doesn't mean nobody made an error it means the error wasn't stupid or reckless and other factors contributed to the outcome. I watch a ton of racing ( WSB, Au champs, Motoamerica, Motogp, all the irish racing, speedway and much more) and have been involved over many years and I've never had the thought that Nakagami is a dangerous or risky rider. Back in the 90's at the Phillip Island round of WSB I was talking to a well known top WSB rider at the time in the pits after race 1 and he was spitting chips about Nori Haga's riding with whom he had been having a big battle. I went and looked at it afterwards thinking I'd missed something but nope just hard racing no quarter given or taken. Rider phycology has always a been a big part of their success, it just hasn't been understood until quite recently by most. Often there's more gains to be had in the head than the machine. Phil

Racing incident or first corner bunching as Speedway often consider it and no rider excluded. I thought Peccos response was interesting considering he took out Jorge Martin in a bone headed up the inside and lose it on the brakes 2 rider incident at Qatar earlier in the year. Riders have very short memories. I thought Nakagami just made a small mistake on the brakes into the first corner not a stupid move. The other thing of note was naka got a really really good launch and drive off the start and when he went down wasn't from the areal shot stull trying desperately to get it stopped. He had got 98% of his braking done fine and just lost the front trail braking the last %2, certainly not a reckless out of control lunge. There's a massive amount going on into the first turn on the opening lap, cold tires, no .aero, cold brakes, massive compressing of the field and riders trying to improve positions. You have to expect the odd mistake here sometimes. Bagnia said in the interview " you can't overtake 12 riders into the first corner" Have a look at the replay and check out Mir firing it up the inside into turn 1 after the start. Started in 19th position and came out of turn 1 in 5th, so made 14 places into the first corner. Riders, some aren't paid because they're thinkers thats for sure. Alex Rins was winging like a 3 year old about an incident with Naka in the previous race and I watched it a dozen times and Naka did zero wrong. He ran his bike out onto the paint and used all the track and held his trajectory and Rins tried to go up the inside on the exit and lost it. Riders under pressure looking for excuses why they crashed. Ciao

So I finally got these 43mm forks back together save for the cartridge installs. The sliders were re chromed and ground and I re assembled the axle/calliper brackets onto them. I sourced a set of seals and the bushes we in good condition. I also sourced a seal driving tool as well. So my methodology was to cut to size a piece of very thin clear plastic probably only .3mm thick from a Chocolate box as it happens and smooth the edges and wrap that around the end of the sliders to guide the seals over the slider end and upper guide bush recess then feed the dust and oil seal onto the plastic protector get them onto the main chrome section and remove the plastic protector. Work the seals and retainer clip and lower bush and it's washer down the leg then install the upper guide bush and fit the slider into the stanchion. I then used the seal driver to install the lower bush with it's washer on top. This was really only a tap fit and didn't really require any hammering. Next was the oil seal and the driver was used just as a means to push the seal into place. So with the leg up side down on the bench grab the seal driver and pull it down hard and the lubed seal just pushes in without a lot of force. Then a couple of impacts with the driving tool just to make sure it's seated and check the retaining clip groove is clear and install the clip, remove the tool and push the dust seal into place. Installing the bush and seal was very easy and requires no real hammering etc. I had ordered a set of Andreani cartridges and they dont fit. The caps are the wrong thread pitch and dia for the 43mm forks of the later bikes. Andreani and the seller weren't interested in sorting the problem so I've sent them back for a refund. Incredibly, although I sent Andreani and the seller images and measurements and proved to them that their cartridges they claim fit all V11 Sports from 01-2006 dont fit the later 43mm equipped bikes they seem disinterested in helping and are still advertising them as fitting all bikes from 01 onwards. This situation has arising before with another member here in 2019 and they still haven't sorted it. I mentioned that this was NOT a new issue and sent them the link from here and still no interest from them. I may get Maxton to make me some cartridges or I may just use the originals, don't know yet. Forgot to take images of the forks before assembly, sorry. Phil

Thats a deal, airbox and throttle bodies and I pay for the shipping only. Just put them aside for me until USPS resume shipping to Australia which I hope will be soon and we can make that happen. Phil

Carburettors and pod filters as well I suspect. Sigh Ciao

I'm very envious of multilingual people but here's a tip if you're using foreign language forums. If you type SLOWER in upper case it usually makes things much clearer and understandable. Hope this helps. Ciao

You might need to wait until you have them apart docc and measure them up. Forks are a PITA because although certain forks are used across certain manufacturers at the time they aren't necessarily identical. Guzzi V11 forks for example are quite a bit longer in overall length to say Ducati forks and the V11 Sport triple clamps are around 10-15mm wider than most bikes so using a different front wheel from a Ducati for example or Aprilia is difficult because although the wheel size and brake disks and mount holes are identical the width of the front hub on a Guzzi is a lot wider so disk spacing for the callipers is too narrow. Ciao

Yep, go into your bathroom and look in the mirror and you'll see him. I've just dealt with a Ford dealership service department and I can tell you they exceeded my previously help poor opinion of dealership techs. it's a disgrace when you talk to a dealer tech and you know 10 times more about the issue and the options to fix it then they do.

I bought a full set (4) Pyramid parts bushes for my 43mm forks for around $50ua. These bushes are nothing special in the scheme of things and if the low friction coating has worn off them then you need to replace them or they will start tearing up the chrome sliders. The ones in my second hand 43mm forks were actually fine but I'm not sure how many miles were on them. Ciao

From the manual it is home doeable docc. No special tooling required. Page 34 of the shop manual.

Better to source replacement fork bushes docc. Pyramid parts make them for the 43mm forks and they are somewhat standard to a degree. You may need to measure them up to source the size. The come in ID X width X thickness from memory. Ciao

Steel bushes often split style with various coatings. I used them for the throttle body bush repairs and are the std fitment from Weber. The fork bushes are the same. http://www.thyssing.com.au/products/glacier-garlock-bearings-ggb-bearings/du-bush/

Docc reading the manual for the early forks it appears you can get away without having a seal driver. Unlike the later forks you can remove the inner slider without disturbing the bushes or the oil seal. The later forks are more like modern forks where the upper fork bush is retained on the end of the slider and so to disassemble the slider from the stanchion you need to use the slider like a slide hammer because the upper bush retained on the slider won't allow removal unless the lower bush and seal which is retained in the stanchion is out of the way. So the upper bush acts like a shoulder to push out the lower bush and seal. The early forks retain both the upper and lower bushers as well as the seals in the stanchion with the bushes separated by a sleeve. So you undo the fork cap and nut and slide the slider out of the stanchion and the bushes and seals stay in place. This means you can replace the seals in the stanchion and then fit the slider back in so all you need is the correct dia drift such as a piece of PVC of the correct dia as someone mentioned because you dont have the slider in the way. The later forks you must fit the dust seal, the oil seal the retaining clip and spacer and lower bush and upper bush all onto the slider in the correct order then insert the slider and upper bush into the stanchion and then use the instillation tool to hammer first the lower bush into the stanchion followed by the oil seal then fit the seal retaining clip and finally push the dust seal into place then split the tool to remove it from the slider. This is why the later modern design forks need the sliding hammer seal and lower bush instillation tool and the earlier forks almost certainly don't and you can get away with a simple home made sleeve of the correct OD to just tap the seal into place. At your mileage I would check the bushes for wear though as well. The bushes in the later forks are DU style coated bushes so check the teflon like grey coating hasn't worn away to the base metal. New bushes aren't that expensive. Ciao

Poor images I know but here is the difference between DCY and DC seals. The DC seal has a raised outer sealing lip and the DCY it's flush with the surface. The other image is of my 42/43 seal driver and shows somewhat how it sits almost in the sealing lip spring recess when in use. Not good and will ruin the seal. I didn't even attempt to use it. So the driver needs to impact the seal as close to the OD as possible and still fit inside the fork leg ID. The seals I pulled out of my 43mm forks had been damaged on instillation by the seal driver. This might also be an option. I've seen a Youtube video where the guy used one. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33007086461.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

Try this docc. I just bought this type for my 43mm forks but haven't used it yet. Whats important on my 43mm forks is they use a DCY style seal which is a style that requires the driver impacts the seal as close as possible to the seal OD or the seal will get damaged on install. In my case this driver for mine has an OD of 53mm which is good for my seal OD of 54mm. The other seal driver kit I have would have damaged the seal as the OD wasn't big enought and would have impacted the seal lip area . I don't know what the seal OD is on the 40mm forks, probably the same 54mm so the seals are "probably" 40x54x11DCY seals, probably! Ariete ARI 118 seals for the 43mm forks. They look decent but can't really comments as yet on their performance. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333761384556?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=333761384556&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071372&poi=&campaignid=15791083372&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300816&merchantid=494522638&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cGUBhA9EiwArBAvojbdH8n1XK_zaFD6k-C4YLSxPAqfYRwCYmooK3wPRD69nteFt0XV-xoCOd8QAvD_BwE

No canbus on a v11 Sport. It's basic old tech electronics. Ciao

Good question docc, I don't know. I also don't really know why the earlier 40mm lower triples have a different casting number because they look the same dimensionally although mine are still fitted to my bike so I haven't been able to measure them and look in detail at them and the later ones I have on the bench. Interestingly the Cafe sport, Copa Italia and Balabios, IE all the bikes that use traditional handlebars instead of clip ons have a different P/N lower clamp to the Le Mans bikes with Marzocchi forks although they all have black clamps so it's not a colour thing.

Well this might be a complicated discussion. The early 40mm forks from what I have seen of them ( and I haven't had them apart unlike the later forks) control the compression and rebound via fixed orifice ports, correct? The damper piston operates in a sleeve that's bolted to the fork slider at the bottom. Further studying of the manual images it appears the early forks are indeed cartridge types and are able to be disassembled. What I dont know is does the damper rod piston and the "foot valve" ( which could be the compression damping valve but could just be a bottoming out snubber) as described in the manual have genuine shim stacks damping control? As soon as I saw and read from years ago the damping was controlled via fixed orifices and people were modifying them by welding up the holes and re drilling them I labelled them in my head as damper rod forks. This combined with no aftermarket replaceable cartridges for them cemented this impression in my mind. They appear from the images to be a cartridge "style" but is the damping controlled by fixed orifices or shim stacks on piston rod and a compression valve assy?