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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. No never an issue. I use copper anti seize on Ti Parts but don't usually bother re applying it once it's on there and I remove and install bolts etc. Phil
  2. 6AI-4V Phil
  3. Lucky Phil

    IMG_3315.JPG

    From the album: lucky phils V11

  4. Just do the upgrade yourself. You can still buy the kits. Phil
  5. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/brake-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder
  6. It's the crossover model with the long frame, short tank and a plastic cover on the frame at the steering head to help disguise the gap between the front of the tank and the steering head caused by the tank frame comb. Phil
  7. It's running on one cylinder hence the rough running and noise. Phil
  8. It's not hanging on the shaft. You are seeing the dust lip part of the seal riding on the chamfer of the output spline seal running surface. The oil seal lip is internally behind that and not visible. Phil
  9. Nothing to do with this. The bearing floats in the rear housing by design. Phil
  10. Personally Pete I'd repair the one you've got. The Spare gearbox I had and used on my V10 engine swap showed no outward signs of cracking but I dye pen checked it anyway and it was cracked. I suspect they crack due to thermal cooling after casting and then it's just a matter of time. Buying a second hand one you run the same risk. Repair is pretty straight forward if you know a good alloy welder. I did mine. Just grind out the crack and pre heat the case to 150C and weld it. Peen it once at the half way point and again at the end. No distortion observed and now it's stronger than the original. I documented it all in my V10 Daytona engine swap thread.

    Phil       

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    1. pete roper

      pete roper

      Hi Phil. It's not my problem, the item in question is being dealt with by Rob at Guzzi Repairs down your way. He just contacted me to ask if I knew where to get a case. I'm just following up.

      I'll pass on your suggestion. Thanks.

  11. Why? How much fucking time do you think I have in my life. I give away what I've learned here for free, you don't like my style then block my posts. You don't value or agree with the info then just ignore it. Same for anyone here, you got a problem with the delivery then don't read my posts or PM docc and get me kicked off the board. Seriously in the grand scheme of things I really don't give a shit at the end of the day. As a matter of fact I think I'm done here.
  12. Who knows docc. The theory is the smaller pistons will move farther for a given input pressure but with less force. In reality there are seal frictional considerations to take into account. From memory it's the smaller ones that usually move first. It's not really relevant in any way that I can see. You just pump them out until the pads touch then lever them back evenly until you can force the calliper back over the disk. Phil
  13. Using the term "I was road racing at the advent" as some form of knowledge based technical qualification is amusing. A bit like "I'm a pilot so I know the engineering technicalities of my aeroplane". Some of the least technically knowledgeable people I've ever met are motorcycle racers and pilots. There are many detailed reasons for differential pistons sizes. Some are more obvious and of greater influence and some less so. Some are mechanical, some are thermal and others chemical. They all add up to create the reasoning behind the design. As is usual when you start drilling down into the details there is rarely a simple singular answer. Phil
  14. Yes docc you have it in reverse. I actually know this stuff and I have a calliper in my hand but you and scud might want to check some Yamaha or Honda forum or something. Phil
  15. So you didn't believe me Scud and went looking on a Jap bike site that "seems credible" The only assumption I can make is my explanation lacks credibility Phil
  16. The small pistons are on the leading edge scud. Phil
  17. In "theory" docc the leading small pistons will move first due to smaller piston size and probably less seal friction due to smaller circumference but in reality there are variables at play. When the lever is pulled there will be more pressure on the trailing area of the pad due to the greater sized pistons and this compensates for the less effective friction coefficient on the trailing area of the pad due to increased disk temp compared to the leading end of the pad and "gassing" of the forward pad friction material under heavy load which reduces the effectivity of the trailing end of the pad. It's a consequence of long banana shaped pads and callipers to some degree to fit into small radial spaces created by rim size and large brake rotors. The later 4 pad design suffers less I suppose so they go back to the even piston sizes. Phil
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