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Everything posted by Lucky Phil
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As I think I mentioned previously there's no problem which sides you have the tap and reg on except issues of enough space to effectively configure hoses etc. When I put the Daytona engine in the V11 I was seriously considering swapping sides because of clearance issues between the reg and the TPS but decided the std way was better and shaved a few mm off the reg holder. Phil
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I'd love a scooter. I hired one in Rome 25 years ago to ride around for a few days 2 up with the wife. It was nothing special as it was a hire scooter maybe 125 at the most and it was great fun. I'd like one for quick trips to the shops for milk etc. Phil
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It doesn't work. The outlet is not for a 12mm hose. So now you need an adaptor to take you from a 5/16 or 8mm hose to the 12mm pump inlet size over a very short run of hose which is extremely hard to do as you need every bit of flex over that short length of hose to align with the pump inlet. even if you can you now you have additional clamps and possible leak points. Oh and in addition the Guzzi uses a 16mm thread on the tank connection which this doesn't suit. If it was this simple I wouldn't have bothered modifying the original. Phil
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The main issue with the crinkle finish is it's by nature quite thickly applied. I stripped it off a gearbox a few years ago for the V10 Sport and in some locations it was 2mm thick. Took a lot of work and many applications of automotive stripper of several different brands. personally I'd get anything with this finish professionally chemically stripped where they can leave it in a tank for a few days. Phil
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Your are in a manner docc reading the schematic wrongly. The tank and frame are ghosted out and not really part of the schematic and are just there for "context" not absolute indication. So as an example the pump and filter assy aren't really mounted on the LHS of the frame as the parts manual image tends to show by the ghosted frame. You also have the issue at times of the optical illusion problem of "which perspective you are viewing from. You need to be careful with schematic representations of parts orders as well. In aviation it wont save you in a court of law as they are legally "representations only" not absolute indications. Same for shop manuals that are often made with images of pre production bikes that change and often differ a bit from the production versions. Phil
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The tap should be on the left so the odd sized 12mm outlet hose is as short as possible directly into the fuel pump. There's limited room down there and the 12mm hose is quite stiff so you don't need it taking up more space than absolutely necessary and also putting unnecessary strain on the pump inlet with it looping around under there. The taps are a good design let down by cheaping out on the seal material. They can't be disassembled and re assembled without modification. I did a thread on the modification I came up with on these so they use Viton seals which don't swell in fuel instead of the std nitrile which do and it can be rebuilt in the future. The mod also means the tap doesn't jam after time when the original seals swell. using pliers to close them for tank removal puts strain on the fuel tank fastener inserts and if you damage one of these then the whole tank is junk. Phil
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Light rattle in gearbox when pushing my bike.
Lucky Phil replied to Walterg's topic in Technical Topics
Thats correct docc. Phil -
Argal, Italian for Ergal, lol. Aluminium 7075. Phil
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I love "patina". On "other peoples" bikes that is.
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I don't mind the use of carbon for aesthetics and weight savings where it makes sense but here is not the place as it's subjected to debris fling off the front tyre which will negate any "looks" after a few miles. The cover is also cheaply made (no metal bush inserts at the mount holes). I suppose it won't stop people using them though. Phil
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Not always, some you can manipulate the ABS module valving manually but if there is no air in the ABS module then normal brake bleeding procedures work as usual. Of course you can always find some deserted road and brake till the ABS kicks in. That will cycle the fluid through the module and run the module pump and force fresh fluid through the module. Phil
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Is there a concise, correct factory service manual?
Lucky Phil replied to LaGrasta's topic in 24/7 V11
As a fellow Aircraft engineer told me early in my career (when an engineer could still use his judgment on airworthiness issues) "The maintenance manual is there for the guidance of the wise and the blind obedience of fools" Applies to translated Italian motorcycle shop manuals as well. Phil -
Is there a concise, correct factory service manual?
Lucky Phil replied to LaGrasta's topic in 24/7 V11
"Is there a concise correct factory service manual" No. It's an Italian motorcycle. Phil -
My go to material for muffler hangers over the years is 4mm 6060 aluminium flat bar. Strong enough, will take anodising, formable and weldable. Has always worked for me. For a really long bracket I might use 6mm thick. Phil
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The ball end and rod muffler supports aren't a good idea. The mufflers require some amount of lateral and anti rotational support from the hanger bracket, these give zero. When you come up with an idea you never see anyone else do it's either brilliant OR the opposite. This is the opposite. I wish it was a good idea as it would have saved me quite a few hours over the years making and fitting hanger brackets. Phil
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Great deal. You guys get it good for second hand bikes I can tell you. Phil
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Just think, I get no royalties Oh the life I could be leading on the Costa Brava but instead I sacrifice it all to the pleasures of fellow Guzzi V11 Sport riders. A life of service to my people Phil
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Nobody in their right mind hangs the hat of model identity of a 20 year old Italian motorcycle on the colour of the tank and bodywork and fitment of a Bikini fairing. They are all superficial and easily replaceable, re paintable items. It's the underlying mechanicals that determine the model. Add to that the uniquely American "carry over year" debacle and it's a "what the hell" year is this thing. I suppose as a counterpoint to that would be the crinkle finish engine and gearbox paint of 2002. Nobody would try and apply that to another model. That would be madness. Phil
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Here's a tip for these allen heads and also phillips head screws that are known to be tight or going to be problematical. Buy yourself some WATER based valve grinding paste NOT oil based and put a blob on the tip of the tool before inserting into the screw head. The paste triples the grip of the tool. When your job for the night is to remove the leading edge panels on the wing of a jet and the total Phillips head screw count is around 600 screws and they've been installed for a year or two you lean all the tricks. There are others as well, for another day. Phil
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Heat can't hurt(up to a point) but if it's retained by red or green Loctite then anything less than about 180-200deg C is pretty pointless as that's the temp required for it to release. Heating the head of the screw is also a bit pointless here as the loctite on the end is so far away on a long screw. Try some boiling water on the throttle body itself where the screw threads into it but I don't think it will help. BTW treat those aluminium half moon injector feed line retainers with care they are easily damaged and have been unobtainium for years. When you get them out just have them professionally done, it's very cheap and they can give you a spray pattern and flow report. Cleanings one thing but the spray pattern is important as well. I'm only making my own rig because very few places clean and flow test side flow injectors. Everyone does top feed injectors like the V11 Sport has. Phil
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Why am I persecuted so by the warlord of rotor seals?
Lucky Phil replied to Pressureangle's topic in Technical Topics
It's what separates the Engineers from the "mechanics" the details. No one should be worried about this job, it's pretty straight forward. -
Why am I persecuted so by the warlord of rotor seals?
Lucky Phil replied to Pressureangle's topic in Technical Topics
Or go to a bearing supplier and source a Unidirectional seal of the correct dimensions. These bikes are so old now that the Guzzi shops just source general stuff like seals etc. The Guzzi factory hasn't stocked v11 parts for years. Sorry by OEM I meant the original type of seal fitted. Phil -
Light rattle in gearbox when pushing my bike.
Lucky Phil replied to Walterg's topic in Technical Topics
The difference between an Aircraft engineer and a mechanic. Phil -
Why am I persecuted so by the warlord of rotor seals?
Lucky Phil replied to Pressureangle's topic in Technical Topics
I changed my original oil tight seal when I did the gears and fitted a new one when I built the daytona engine, both are fine. You need to use an OEM Unidirectional seal on these and the rear seal or any difficult to access seal for that matter. Thats what the original factory fit seals are not bidirectional seals. Same for the gearbox output shaft seal. make sure the seal sleeve isn't damaged on the sealing face. Phil