Jump to content

Lucky Phil

Members
  • Posts

    5,229
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    268

Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. Here's a tip for these allen heads and also phillips head screws that are known to be tight or going to be problematical. Buy yourself some WATER based valve grinding paste NOT oil based and put a blob on the tip of the tool before inserting into the screw head. The paste triples the grip of the tool. When your job for the night is to remove the leading edge panels on the wing of a jet and the total Phillips head screw count is around 600 screws and they've been installed for a year or two you lean all the tricks. There are others as well, for another day. Phil
  2. Heat can't hurt(up to a point) but if it's retained by red or green Loctite then anything less than about 180-200deg C is pretty pointless as that's the temp required for it to release. Heating the head of the screw is also a bit pointless here as the loctite on the end is so far away on a long screw. Try some boiling water on the throttle body itself where the screw threads into it but I don't think it will help. BTW treat those aluminium half moon injector feed line retainers with care they are easily damaged and have been unobtainium for years. When you get them out just have them professionally done, it's very cheap and they can give you a spray pattern and flow report. Cleanings one thing but the spray pattern is important as well. I'm only making my own rig because very few places clean and flow test side flow injectors. Everyone does top feed injectors like the V11 Sport has. Phil
  3. It's what separates the Engineers from the "mechanics" the details. No one should be worried about this job, it's pretty straight forward.
  4. Or go to a bearing supplier and source a Unidirectional seal of the correct dimensions. These bikes are so old now that the Guzzi shops just source general stuff like seals etc. The Guzzi factory hasn't stocked v11 parts for years. Sorry by OEM I meant the original type of seal fitted. Phil
  5. The difference between an Aircraft engineer and a mechanic. Phil
  6. I changed my original oil tight seal when I did the gears and fitted a new one when I built the daytona engine, both are fine. You need to use an OEM Unidirectional seal on these and the rear seal or any difficult to access seal for that matter. Thats what the original factory fit seals are not bidirectional seals. Same for the gearbox output shaft seal. make sure the seal sleeve isn't damaged on the sealing face. Phil
  7. No two engines are the identical mechanically, in mileage, or condition, then add to that that all the sensors used for engine control have their own tolerances and you can see the scope there is for variation. Your bike also has a different exhaust no airbox and silly pod filters to throw into the mix. Phil
  8. This won't work I dont think. It states for "custom console applications only" and I think the wall thickness will be too thick to fit the std V11 console. Others may be able to confirm my thoughts. Phil
  9. How long is a piece of string? It's like asking how many turns should I set my idle screw or air screws. There is no definitive answer. The CO trim is set to what each individual engines needs are. You can do it by "feel" or hook up an EGA and set it to the factory CO level and then see if it runs best at that OR try a setting either side of that and see if it runs better there. Phil
  10. Nothing to do with ECU's it's about the engine. Phil
  11. There special tools for this Banjo. Not all engine blocks are machined the same at the banjo oil feed point and even a thin walled spanner or socket won't fit on some engines. I know because I have 4 sets of cases at home and the machining clearance for the banjo fitting is quite a bit different on a couple of them. The tool on the top LHS is one I made for removing oil pressure switches on Daytona engines. It's between a long and normal socket in length. The others are for the Banjo. Why two tools for the banjo? Because the "swing" is restricted down in the "V" and to get that last 1/2 flat rotation you sometimes need the socket. Phil
  12. You will need to see if Chuck has any from the latest production run. He's the manufacturing expert, I'm just the, Ahem, "creative" Phil
  13. Buy a set for a 2000 V11 Sport. I'm not aware of any issues with muffler cross fitting between the catted and non catted bike which if is the case then Agostinis is wrong. Reliable info is hard to come by these days as all the older knowledgeable people in retail environments are being replaced by young "customer service" kids that don't actually know anything beyond year model stuff on a computer screen. My bike has Agostini mufflers, Stucchi cross over and V11 header pipes fitted to a Daytona engine in a V11 Sport chassis. All fitted perfectly without any modifications. Can you imagine asking a modern parts person whether this combo would work? They'd spit their coffee across the room and have a coughing fit. Phil
  14. Yes Phil
  15. I'd put my money on the gearbox for the whine. Gear mesh is obviously different on the drive and overrun faces and so a gearbox can "whine" in one direction and be silent on the other. My car whines at a specific speed in second gear on the overrun but not on the gas. These Dynotec bikes don't use steel cam gears but aluminium. They don't want the weight of steel gears for racing. Thats what Joe tells me. Phil
  16. Don't discount the fact that the extra drag turning the in gear gearbox and clutch assy may be enough additional load to produce a noise where none exists when the shaft is running free. Worth a thought. Phil
  17. No that's correct PF3C refers to the type of TPS fitted to the bike. The C5 is the ECU version. After you connect whats displayed under that is the map information that's loaded. Phil
  18. Interesting Pete about the kill switch. If it was an initial map download then they are always around the 15min mark. It's slow to copy the initial map and after that any modified map loading is fast. Apparently the initial map copy is slowed down by a clumsy but unavoidable validation of individual bits of information. IT people like Meinolf or pauldaytona would be able to explain it. Phil
  19. Whats it sound like rotating with the gearbox cover on and in gear? Phil
  20. Nice hand pump setup Phil
  21. You can but you need to block it with something or just remove it and put a bolt in the manifolds to blank them off. Phil
  22. By checking the fuel pressure. Pretty easy to do and a testing kit these days is maybe 30 bucks on ebay. The filters are a travesty but I won't go down that path. It might be worth removing them and see if it makes a difference but I'm doubtful. It's far cheaper to just clean the injectors and get them flow tested at maybe 25 bucks each. Unknown history means you need to start from a WCS. Phil
  23. I'm reluctant to get too involved with issues like this for various reasons but here's a few questions. Has the bike sat around unused for a long period of time? Does it have any stupid additional boxes added to the efi system like a PC3? If there's fuel in the oil then you've got bigger issues than a simple sensor issue. If the sensor fails then the system just goes to a safe default figure. What map does it have in it? Std? Did you get the CO reset back to zero? I'd be looking at getting the injectors professionally cleaned (esp if it's sat around for a while) and check the fuel pressure and that the pressure regulator is not stuck closed. Injectors that dont seat properly leak and it's obvious what that would result in. Phil
  24. If it's not the filter gasket then the oil pumps lost its prime, happens sometimes for reasons nobody can explain. It's a mistake to remove the sump when you have no need to, same as overnight oil draining. Best to dump the oil replace the filter, fill it and start it in the shortest time you can. A few choices. Remove the front cover and pull the pump and fill it with grease and put it all back together again, not an attractive proposition. The second is to block the crankcase breather and use shop air to put 5 psi or so into the crankcases to help push the oil into the pump or pull the sump again and take a large syringe ( I have a 1.5 litre one) with a hose on the pump pickup and force some oil into the pump with the filter removed. Phil
×
×
  • Create New...