Lucky Phil

Nothing to do with ECU's it's about the engine. Phil

There special tools for this Banjo. Not all engine blocks are machined the same at the banjo oil feed point and even a thin walled spanner or socket won't fit on some engines. I know because I have 4 sets of cases at home and the machining clearance for the banjo fitting is quite a bit different on a couple of them. The tool on the top LHS is one I made for removing oil pressure switches on Daytona engines. It's between a long and normal socket in length. The others are for the Banjo. Why two tools for the banjo? Because the "swing" is restricted down in the "V" and to get that last 1/2 flat rotation you sometimes need the socket. Phil

You will need to see if Chuck has any from the latest production run. He's the manufacturing expert, I'm just the, Ahem, "creative" Phil

Buy a set for a 2000 V11 Sport. I'm not aware of any issues with muffler cross fitting between the catted and non catted bike which if is the case then Agostinis is wrong. Reliable info is hard to come by these days as all the older knowledgeable people in retail environments are being replaced by young "customer service" kids that don't actually know anything beyond year model stuff on a computer screen. My bike has Agostini mufflers, Stucchi cross over and V11 header pipes fitted to a Daytona engine in a V11 Sport chassis. All fitted perfectly without any modifications. Can you imagine asking a modern parts person whether this combo would work? They'd spit their coffee across the room and have a coughing fit. Phil

Yes Phil

I'd put my money on the gearbox for the whine. Gear mesh is obviously different on the drive and overrun faces and so a gearbox can "whine" in one direction and be silent on the other. My car whines at a specific speed in second gear on the overrun but not on the gas. These Dynotec bikes don't use steel cam gears but aluminium. They don't want the weight of steel gears for racing. Thats what Joe tells me. Phil

Don't discount the fact that the extra drag turning the in gear gearbox and clutch assy may be enough additional load to produce a noise where none exists when the shaft is running free. Worth a thought. Phil

This. Phil

No that's correct PF3C refers to the type of TPS fitted to the bike. The C5 is the ECU version. After you connect whats displayed under that is the map information that's loaded. Phil

Interesting Pete about the kill switch. If it was an initial map download then they are always around the 15min mark. It's slow to copy the initial map and after that any modified map loading is fast. Apparently the initial map copy is slowed down by a clumsy but unavoidable validation of individual bits of information. IT people like Meinolf or pauldaytona would be able to explain it. Phil

Whats it sound like rotating with the gearbox cover on and in gear? Phil

Nice hand pump setup Phil

You can but you need to block it with something or just remove it and put a bolt in the manifolds to blank them off. Phil

By checking the fuel pressure. Pretty easy to do and a testing kit these days is maybe 30 bucks on ebay. The filters are a travesty but I won't go down that path. It might be worth removing them and see if it makes a difference but I'm doubtful. It's far cheaper to just clean the injectors and get them flow tested at maybe 25 bucks each. Unknown history means you need to start from a WCS. Phil

I'm reluctant to get too involved with issues like this for various reasons but here's a few questions. Has the bike sat around unused for a long period of time? Does it have any stupid additional boxes added to the efi system like a PC3? If there's fuel in the oil then you've got bigger issues than a simple sensor issue. If the sensor fails then the system just goes to a safe default figure. What map does it have in it? Std? Did you get the CO reset back to zero? I'd be looking at getting the injectors professionally cleaned (esp if it's sat around for a while) and check the fuel pressure and that the pressure regulator is not stuck closed. Injectors that dont seat properly leak and it's obvious what that would result in. Phil

If it's not the filter gasket then the oil pumps lost its prime, happens sometimes for reasons nobody can explain. It's a mistake to remove the sump when you have no need to, same as overnight oil draining. Best to dump the oil replace the filter, fill it and start it in the shortest time you can. A few choices. Remove the front cover and pull the pump and fill it with grease and put it all back together again, not an attractive proposition. The second is to block the crankcase breather and use shop air to put 5 psi or so into the crankcases to help push the oil into the pump or pull the sump again and take a large syringe ( I have a 1.5 litre one) with a hose on the pump pickup and force some oil into the pump with the filter removed. Phil

Ok docc sorry kill the thread. Phil

Excuses, excuses, I did my gears and nothing else docc. Nike. Phil

Looks partially broken at the clamp screw to me. Phil

Goodness me, listening to the clip I wouldn't categorize this as a slight rattle! "rhythmic light clunking" in my book but I can see how some would call it a rattle. Differences in language interpretation. It's a serious sound and I wouldn't ride the bike until I sourced the issue. It sounds like it's a gear selector sleeve catching on the drive teeth of one gear. So either the selector assembly is seriously out of adjustment or there is a partial failure in it somewhere. Is this bike fitted with a satin black gearbox or a wrinkle finish gearbox? There is also the issue of a failed selector sleeve which was covered by a recall on early boxes but if it's an early wrinkle finish gearbox they were affected as well and you need to account for ones that slipped through the net. You also need to account for replacement transmissions from previous owners and just a sleeve failure. It might also be worth looking at the large eccentric adjustment which people fiddle with when installed. It sounds like it's trying to engage 2 gears at once or not fully disengaging one gear when engaging another. It could also be a loose input shaft drive spline. I think doccs had that. You've also had the selector apart to replace the spring. Are the selector fork gear wheel teeth correctly indexed? Phil

Yes and yes. It's a twin plate dry clutch with a gazzillion splines on the clutch hub and flywheel. What are the odds that it's going to be silent in the conditions you mention? Don't worry I'll tell you, ZERO. The older it gets the more the splines wear and the more rattly they become. Phil

Yes it can quite easily. Built it up and fill in the threaded hole with weld and dress it with a die grinder back to original profile then drill and re tap the hole. Pre heat the whole spacer to around 150 deg C and weld it in a few stages to prevent distortion of the sealing faces. Phil

I thought you'd be doing the first 100 hourly on this thing by now Chuck. Phil

Well the seals and bushes are worth $80US or there abouts ,oil about $20 and an hours labour for both. You can probably get away without the seal driver at $30US I found. The issue I have these days isn't so much the cost but the quality of the work. Hard to find skilled people out there that do quality work. Phil