Lucky Phil

No, going to use aftermarket cartridges with rebound in one leg and comp in the other. These later forks are rebound only adjustment. Ciao

The area and amount of loctite here is too great for a soldering iron. It's a 43mm dia tube and the threads are about 15mm deep plus another 20mm of plain sleeve that the loctite also affects and a sizeable alloy fitting. Yes it's hard chromes and needs to be sized and ground and checked for straightness. I checked and mine are perfectly straight so thats fine. Ciao

So I sourced a used pair of late model 43mm fork assemblies for the V10 Sport. Naturally when they arrived they were not quite what I expected condition wise probably due to the less than ideal packaging. Both legs were leaking with one side disguised by a piece of absorbent material under the dust seal and the other not. There was obvious damage to the other chrome slider as shown below. Both are dead straight and the stanchions are in good condition considering their age with minimal wear. The bushes were also fine for wear but they'll get replaced anyway. The real issue is removing the brake and axle brackets to get the sliders re chromes and ground. There is a small grub screw in the brake bracket which comes out with some heat to release the Loctite but the damage to the slider threads it causes needs to be addressed before the joyous job of trying to remove the sliders themselves. I drilled a small 5mm screw ( locking grub screw size) down the centre screwed it back into the bracket then took a 3mm drill ground flat on the end with some cutting clearance ground on the tip and used that to remove the damage caused by the pointed grub screw. Worked well. A 3mm end mill would work better if you have one. Next issue is the bracket removal itself which needless to say is held on with loctite on the very fine threads used on the chrome sliders. These are notoriously hard to remove and need quite a bit of heat application to break the locking compound. I bought a 43mm clamp and also drilled a hole in the bench for an 8mm steel rod to fit through the holes at the top of the slider to provide even more resistance to turning. You have to love the flexibility of a wooden bench for things like this. I also machined up a pair of bushes that I could clamp into the forks that fitted a piece of steel rod I had on hand. I wanted to provide as much support to the axle lug as I could. I don't have an axle at present but I thought I'd need a bit more leverage anyway. So gas burner and temp gun in hand I heated up the bracket and they finally released from the thread locker. There's a bit of loosen and tighten work involved initially but eventually taking it steadily off they came without damage to the threads. As you can see there's a lot of thread locker on there. Most people leave this sort of thing to the fork re chroming/refurbishing guys but I like a difficult life and it saves $50/leg in costs. So next job is off to get the sliders re chromed and ground. I have a seal and bush kit on the way and I need to refinish the brackets and repair a slight graze mark from an obvious trip down the road. The objective is to replace the std cartridges with aftermarket jobs and machine up a Titanium axle. Packaging! Damage. To the sellers credit he refunded me the cost of repair to this leg. The bench setup Brackets and axle bobbins I made up. The graze on the lower bracket looks worse than it really is. I'll just use some Devcon F to fix it and shape it back before re painting in 2 pack. Thread damage from locking screw that requires addressing before bracket removal Ciao

Pauldaytona supplied the answer to this. The RC, Rosso Corse has 2 types of Ohlins forks fitted a larger and small dia axle type, so T5/6 refers to that plus some other small changes. If you want details about stuff like this Paul is the man to ask. Ciao

Griso 1100 will fit. Ciao

I'd check that myself, 1.8mm of shims seems too much to me. Ciao

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1226 Ciao

Before you do be aware that the clip ons are a "lot" lower than the std ones in the image in the OP. It's going to be a very aggressive riding position to allow fitment of this fairing. Ciao

Thats sleeve Scud will be an interference/shrink fit in the wheel. Just leave it and mask it off or get the PC to mask it off with his high temp masking tape. Ciao

Yes docc. I've been storing rubber parts for all my bikes as you suggest for quite a few years including the tank top chin pad. when I need a new rubber part I just order and extra 1 then give it a good spray in Armour all and bag and box it. My motorcycle beneficiaries will thank me for it one day. Ciao

Probably because he's a hired gun driving someone else's 20 million dollar car and the others are mostly amateurs driving there own expensive machinery:) Ciao

I'm guessing here Scud you haven't tightened up the side plate fasteners? Ciao

Here's a favourite of mine Kenny Brack Goodwood 2013 Ford GT40 in the wet. When I was teaching my son to drive I showed this video to him to demonstrate the speed at which a car gets out of shape in the wet if pushed too hard and the reactions and pre-emptive skills you need to keep it on the road. If you think as a amateur road drive you have those type of skills then you're mistaken so don't push the limits on the streets. Ciao

I take it Paul from Florida is in the writing of "advertising copy" line of work. Ciao

Yes in offset at least, no difference. In "cant" it depends if you believe the past information that suggests the later 5014xx clamps were canted and then "not canted" after the short frame bikes. Ciao

I'll know for sure when I fit up the new forks and can measure my "possibly 1/2 deg canted" triples. Ciao

My interpretation was docc one of the following happened. Option 1 the earlier 01493xx clamps were 40mm offset parallel bores and the later 5014xx were 40mm offset and "canted" by 1/2 degree. Option 2 the later 5014xx weren't actually "canted" but in fact just had 5mm reduced offset from 45mm (maybe ex 1100ie Sport triples used initially) to 40mm offset with parallel bores. Option 3 The very first clamps used were 1100ie Sport ones with 45mm offset. Then they changed them to 40mm offset parallel bores as per option 2. Then they changed those 40mm offset triples to "canted bores" Then post short frame bikes (long frame bikes) went back to "non canted" parallel bore forks with the same 40mm offset. I think option 2 is most likely. What's your interpretation, thoughts. Ciao

No to the later type 501452's. Those are the ones that are supposedly "canted". The earlier ones would be parallel same as the late one I have from Scud. Ciao