Lucky Phil

Those connectors aren't really suitable for a hose and clamp situation docc. The locking collar is quite high and a long way onto the projection so you've got a lot of hose to push onto the projection over the retaining collar section ( which would be hard unless you reduced it's dia a bit) and then a hose clamp at the end without a lot of room left. Too much on a delicate fitting. It seems they work ok if you know the technique for releasing them and make sure you support the fitting when removing and refitting the QR hose. People break them by using poor technique and being ham fisted. You can buy after market metal versions but they are expensive. ciao

Yes, you can damage the shock internally if it bottoms out. Ciao

The bump stop. It's what prevents damage to the shock internals when it bottoms out. You need to remove the spring and the eye end to replace it and removing the eye end is no joke even for a "shock expert". It involves heating the eye end to get it hot enough to to release the thread locker then a shaft holding tool, sometimes even in a shop press to hold the shock shaft to undo the eye end. I would cut a shallow groove around the perimeter of a new bumper that will accommodate an electrical tie wrap then cut it so you can spread it and slip it over the shaft and use the tie wrap to clamp it in place again. Ciao

Seems doable Will the seat still fit? they run close to the base. Ciao

Yes docc. I was looking at the RE wiring diagram wondering about their relay load sharing as they use identical units however they only use 4 relays one of which is for accessories. The main difference is the fuel pump relay only does the fuel pump and the main relay supplies the fuel pump power and switch and the ecu. The coils are supplied via the ignition switch and kill switch directly and a fuse. That relieves a relay of the highest load from the coils, some 16 amps. The odd RE's exhibit mystery intermittent shut down for no apparent reason and I was wondering if they suffered from a relay that was loaded to the limit and therefore no headroom but it seems not. Maybe an overloaded ignition switch contact, if the contact is less than pristine from manufacture? Ciao

Of course one solution is to add another dedicated relay for the coils or fuel pump. Should be room. Ciao

Thanks docc. I re read my old post and managed to confuse even myself. Ciao

The later in tank pump tank is a sensible mod and one I wanted to do myself but I found it won't fit a short frame bike without the forks hitting the tank. Others disagreed somehow and reckoned it was "no issue". I never found out how it was "no issue" The advantage of the in tank pump is it's a whole lot neater for the injector hosing and far more "integrated". The downside is the loss of the Chin Pad "character". it's quite a bit longer around 60mm from memory and all forward of the front mount to fill in the extra gap created by the frame extension behind the steering head. I posted images and figure a while back. Ciao

I know Pete, I wasn't doubting his methodology just offering alternative thoughts. I spoke to Mark before I transposed the .bin file from a 16M to the 15M asking for his thoughts on the logic of my plan and he surprisingly said, sure that should work, be fairly simple. I say surprisingly because others with very capable knowledge about these things weren't supportive of the plan at all. The rest is history and good old "Aussie Logic" won out. Ciao

I'm a believer in an assembly of the correct parts makes the designated model. I'm not one of the "it must have matching numbers" people so assembling a bike from parts is fine by me it's just in this case being neither fish nor fowl could cause it to have a lesser value which wouldn't be fair to an unwitting buyer. BTW here's my latest "non greenie" addition thanks to KINDOY2. My bike doesn't know what the hell it is.

I'm sure he was, lol. Multi Guzzis assembled in one location Ciao

Yes I found the same issue with the Electrosport connectors. Ciao

Well spotted on the plugged subframe holes docc Ciao

He could have tried playing with the engine temp trim which you can adjust as a % for each temp break point so richen it up when it's cold. Also there's the option of the start enrichment map which enriches the fuel delivery for 4000 engine revolutions which is around 3 min running until it gets some temp into it. These parameters make a massive difference to cold start and running as I found out when I used the V11 2 valve engine temp break points and warm up trim initially on my Centauro engine. With the much larger and completely different 4 valve head design the engine temp trim % and break points were totally wrong for the Centy engine and it was nearly impossible to start and ran poorly until up to around normal engine operating temp. At or around normal engine temp it ran very well but starting and cold were really bad. Ciao

Well it may be a good bike as long as they're aware it's a Bitza. Ciao

Not sure docc, looking at the trumpet holes in the airbox it looks like they are a little too high for the inlet rubbers which would be Centy. It also has a side cover mount hole point above the inlet hole and I've seen Centy airboxes with and without this. Ciao

Why? Ciao

It's a Centy airbox. The V11 and Centy airboxes are very close to identical. The offset is a little different due to the differing engine location and the height of the holes for the inlet trumpet. The Centy holes are about 12mm higher. My V11 Daytona thread explains the differences with images. Ciao

Yea that might work. The RE is 2,000 and I think the BM's were around 1800 or so and you mostly downshift above those RPM's so thats when you get the hickup which I find aggravating. Means you need to roll the throttle on the downshifts. Ciao

The problem with the fuel cutoff on the closed throttle above a designated rpm is I've found that systems that do this don't respond sharply to a quick flick of the throttle on downshifts in that area which I find annoying. The RE does it and the K100's I owned were the same as was a K75 I rode. You can add some fuel in the RPM affected on closed throttle to stop it as does upping the CO setting as well which isn't necessarily ideal but gets it done. Ciao

I was wondering about the current draws Roy posted a while back in the link in one of doccs posts and decided to bench test some of my parts. Roys original figures in black and mine in Red Relay No 5 ECU Power relay The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9...... I got 1.8 amps unloaded then it started making noises because it was running dry and went to 3.5. Gave it a squirt of WD40 in the inlet and back to 1.85. Each injector will draw 1 amp. Ran an injector continuously and 0.1 amps draw. Each coil will draw 17 Amps. Only had a "Dual HT output" coil on hand from an MV Agusta and it was 15 amps. That all adds up to 22.5 Amps My total 17 amps with an unloaded pump and I'd imagine around 19 loaded. Don't know what all this means but that's the bench figures. Maybe the relay isn't under quite as much load as we think? Ciao

I think both of you have missed the point with regards to relay temps. Guzzi have designed them as a "seat warmer". A free option not previously advertised but revealed here after 20 years. Ciao

I've tried to imagine what was the objective here and origins of say 2 wrecked/failed bikes combined to make 1 rideable one and I'm at a loss. A blown up Centy with a 2 valve engine makes sense if you had a 2 valve engine but if you had a wrecked Lemans then everything damaged in a wreck would be needed to make this bike. Maybe a V11 Lemans with a blown up gearbox transposed to a Centy with a blown up engine, but why bother changing the forks and front end as there no real upgrade there. Maybe a blown Centy engine replaced by a cheap and available 2 valver and the rest is just a collection of ebay bits. It's wrong to advertise it as a Le Mans though. Ciao