Lucky Phil

Read the add details, it's UNIVERSAL tank NOT a specific V11 tank. Ciao

Well if you haven't used Valpolini rocker gaskets then yes, you have jinxed yourself and made a mistake. No selant required with the Valpolini gaskets and no chance of them breaking a section out. Ciao

Why blame the product when it's the poor quality workmanship that caused the issue. Like blaming the hammer because you hit your finger. Ciao

Good to hear your hip is an old injury and not something more serious. As a general statement I'm amazed at people going in for joint replacements, esp knees and hips when they are carrying obvious extra body weight. I sat in wonder at a work function a while ago and listened to two work colleagues discussing their knees and the need of having the joints replaced and noted both were carrying around 15-20kg (around 45lbs) of extra body weight they didn't need. So every time you take a step you briefly carry full body weight on all the joints in one leg. Go and pick up 20kg and note the extra weight plus the impact effect and imagine the extra load on the leg joints when that extra weight is applied 5 or 6 thousand steps a day. I sat there thinking, before I wasted time and energy wondering about whether or not various foods like Tomato's etc made your knees feel worse and dreading knee replacements I'd try dropping 20 or so KG and see how your leg joints feel first before having expensive and invasive operations. Even the side affects of old injuries can be mitigated by keeping weight under control and lessening the stress on an injured joint. My wife recently had a hip replaced but that was due to damage caused by Rheumatoid Arthritis and running combined so I'm aware of those considerations. It's just food for thought is all I'm saying. Ciao

What Lithium charger do you use? Ciao

It's not that. The reasons have been identified, and it's water. The nylon tank material absorbs water and swells and fuels that contain ethanol are more hydroscopic than straight fuel and have a higher moisture content and therefore swell the tank. Leaving them dry for a few months in a warm dry environment pretty much brings them back 100% as the water leaches out of the Nylon tank material. Ciao

Here's another option I posted recently. More cranking power and around half the weight of an Odyssey and around $50 or so dearer. Why they call it a "hybrid" I don't understand as it's just an AGM as far as I can see but it's light and not as expensive as a LiPo battery and all the issues with them. https://www.motobatt.us/Tester-Motobatt-Fixed-Load-12V Ciao

Your Odyssey would have almost certainly been leaking due to overcharging which is pretty typical of the V11 charging system. I've had 2 Odysseys do this due to a faulty reg and the way the V11 wiring is designed. Check your regulator voltage output. Ciao

Just trying to tie the clutch action to the recovery of the running. Can't see the clutch switch having an effect and working the throttle isn't going to recover a cut in ignition or loss of fuel supply. Only thing left is TPS. No guarantee of course. You can buy a new PF3C TPS from CA Cycleworks for $92us Ciao

The older PF09 on my Daytona yes the later PF03 on the V11's no. My image is of the PF09 Ciao

Yes true but he says he's covered the SS switch. Ciao

There is no foil on the tracks. Ciao

Yes docc and here's what the inside of an earlier TPS looks like after a while. Note the crud and debris on the wiper and track. Ciao

Maybe this is a red herring Chuck. I looked at the wiring diagram as well and couldn't come up with an answer on that with regards to the clutch switch and a running engine but here's a thought. When it dies ( and the OP hasnt mentioned if this means just the engine or complete electrical power) I will assume engine only, the natural instinct is to whip the clutch in and start modulating the throttle to keep it running. Maybe it's worth thinking more about what's happening with the throttle and the TPS as a possible issue. Ciao

I was comparing to the $238AU I just paid for another Odyssey PC545. You can get the Motobat MHTX16 for $284AU here. I'm also tempted by this. Around $80AU here. https://www.motobatt.us/Tester-Motobatt-Fixed-Load-12V Ciao

This looks good docc. Lighter by a long way, smaller and more grunt than an Odyssey. The MHTX16 would suit the V11. https://www.motobatt.com/assets/documents/Catalogues/Motobatt_HYBRID.pdf Ciao

There's no difference with the extension as it's not above the master cylinder. You're still pushing air down hill just the same as without the extension, same as bleeding brakes. The clutch bleed extension just makes it less tricky to access the bleed point. If you're bleeding the clutch or brakes for that matter from scratch the easiest way is a syringe full of fluid, say 250ml and some plastic hose and fill the system from the Slave at the bottom. You can buy a plastic syringe for next to nothing. What most people fail to do ( esp on bikes with clip on style bars) is remove the master from the handlebar and tilt it so air trapped in the connection between the master and the hose is lower than the reservoir. Gently work the brake/clutch lever just to the point of take up and out comes the air. Or tap the lines with a screwdriver and the same happens. You'll never get that trapped air out with bleeding unless you use a big commercial powered pressure bleeder. Invest in a manual home workshop pressure bleeder (they are like $75US for a good one) as they are far superior to a vacuum pump/method and you can use it on your cars as well. The other advantage of a pressure bleeder for brakes is it removes the requirement to push the brakes full travel when doing a "manual" bleed which on an older car/bike keeps the master cylinder seals away from the area of the cylinder bore that doesn't normally get used which can have accumulated some corrosion and roughness. Ever manually bled a brake system only to find the master cylinder seals fail shortly thereafter? Thats the reason. If you flush you're clutch and brakes regularly you never need to bleed them anyway. Ciao

Ciao

There is no downside to running the lowest W number you can in your climate John as long as it's a full group4 synthetic. The lower the W figure the better, that's why just about everything I own runs on Mobi1 0W-40. Heavier W grades are only a factor in mineral based oils that suffer from shear down. Ciao

Yes docc, I cant remember which colours my bike has now but I seem to recall there wasn't a black. Maybe the Allison diagram is wrong. Ciao

I think docc it's less confusing to identify the wires as earth, Input ( 5 volt power supply) and output (the variable voltage seen by the ECU so it knows what the throttle angle is) All the positive, negative etc seems confusing to me as there are actually 2 positives, one a variable and one not. So Violet is earth Yellow is Supply Violet/Black output. BTW the 99 V11 doesn't have the Violet as an earth according to the WD, it's black. Ciao

Re check your work esp the filter fitment. The 5W-40 isn't too thin as the CTS at 100deg C is still the 40 weight equivalent which is adequate. I've run my bike on 0W-40 Mobil1 for 10 years with no issues. Other things to consider, an oil pressure relief valve that's not seating correctly(you can disassemble it insitu and clean it) the a LOP switch that's not the correct part (they differ in their thresholds) although they fit and maybe your engines close to the lower limit on oil pressure at hot idle. As Pete pointed out it's probably time to swap out the switch anyway. Having said all that I had a friend years ago that had the same issue on a Mk4 Le Mans after changing to a lower grade oil and he solved the problem by going back to a 20W-50. It shouldn't really be necessary but the 20W-50 can band aid over other issues and if the bikes running ok then that's fine for some people. The 50 weight gives you a little more hot oil pressure headroom on the switch setting. Ciao