Lucky Phil

Good idea docc, might try that next time I have the battery out. Ciao

Ok thanks Chuck. I was very surprised at how tight the original base was on my bike. I made a simple aluminium extension strap so the runner battery strap wasn't pulled so tight and that wouldn't allow the seat to clip down because the metal ring on the rubber strap now sat flat on the battery top, sheez. I tried my later seat and it definitly has more under seat clearance to things and a simpler cleaner detail design. Ciao

Well not really, the base is plastic. It's a very tight fit the base clearance on these things esp the first version of the seat on the early bikes. Any contact marks on the seat base? I might consider this mod myself if the clearance is there. Ciao

Do the connectors/cap screws contact the seat base Chuck? Ciao

Ok. but was it a a pressure spray of fuel under 45psi or a gush of fuel from the line draining? you always get a stream of fuel when you pull the reg hose and depending on circumstances its either a constant trickle for some times or if its got air behind it a bit more of a flow situation. Ciao

I personally use moly grease here. The rational for locking washers with tabs isn't to prevent the loss of torque on the nut it's to retain the nut and stop a total catastrophe until the issue is isolated and that's often through routine maintenance checks. They are old and somewhat unreliable technology. Personally I think Loctite is a far better way to go on most stuff like this with the lock washer as the backup. I've seen the internal tab on the lock washer broken or partially broken many times during the torquing up but you tend not to notice unless you put a witness mark on the lock washer and the housing when you torque up. That way you can see if the internal tab has deformed or broken. Ciao

Very good Pete. I recently had dealings with a lovely little stainless steel strap around 6 or 8mm wide and probably .2 thick plain finished with a small incorporated fitting on the end I had no idea of its workings. It was a very nice and compact and you slid the end of the strap into the fitting and it held tight as tight. Inside that little end fitting I later found out is a tiny ball bearing that wedges the strap. Is this the style you need? I was later told its the same design as a CV joint boot retainer. Very cool thing. Not reusable though. Ciao

Oh ok. Could you get some Loctite on the nut? You could use some wick in 290 on the nut even drop by drop on the end of a thin screwdriver. It's specifically designed to be applied after a fastener is tightened and it wicks it's way down the threads. It wont tell you if it's lost its preload ( but there's other ways to do that I'm guessing) but it will prevent loosening. Ciao

No way to check it with say a flex boro Pete? To at least see if the lockwasher tabs are intact and not broken or bent. Like I used to do on Jet engines. We used to pull lock tabs out of the Mag plugs from time to time and use a boro to locate and monitor the issue. nice little articulated boro's are fairly cheap these days and I have a nice one I use connected via bluetooth to my Ipad or laptop. Ciao

Probably because the stumble is dependant on a few different parameters working together and unless they are it doesn't do it. So when my V11 was standard it used to have the stumble at times. When I changed to gear driven cam I went out and tried my best on several different rides to reproduce it to no avail and I reported here that it looked like the theory it was caused by cam chain slack might be correct. A ride or two later it was back again which I reported here. So a combination of rpm, oat, engine temp throttle position and baro pressure all influence the fuel injector duty cycle hence the fuel mixture and the ignition timing. Somewhere it seems when the combination of all or a few of these is aligned you get the stumble. So in my case I couldn't get it to stumble but then, different oat/engine temp and condition it's back. I think it's unlikely the Ti ecu fixes it or that would have been figured out 20 years ago. The fuel and ignition maps don't lie that's for sure. So here are the Delta fuel and ignition maps for a std 2000 V11 Sport and the Titanium ecu map. The delta map is a comparison map between the 2 maps you have loaded in Tunerpro to look at not the raw data but the difference between the two. The minus figures here indicate the original map being compared to is a lesser value than the comparison map which in this case is the Ti map as can be seen in the header. The all zero's indicates the maps are identical, no differences. The stumble is always down at very low throttle openings and usually around 2800-3200 rpm. Could also be a combination of the above AND the TPS and airscrew and TB balance factored in as well. Ciao

V11 Sport Greenie. Between the fork centres....210mm Fork upper dia 54mm Offset ( distance from the ctr of the steering stem and a line through the Fork centrelines) .....36mm I "think" later tripple clamps were a fraction different due to the longer frame. Ciao

If you can measure the fork dia and offset I can measure the V11 and give you an idea. I'm sure the stem will be the same as I'm sure the top clamp nut is common to them both. Ciao

As a starting point I just checked the fuel, offset and ignition maps of the Ti map against the V11 Sport map and the only difference between a "Titanium" map and a std v11 Sport map is ignition advance at the top end at larger throttle openings. So from 36.8 to 84.8 (full throttle) there is between 3 and 5 degrees extra ignition advance on the Ti map. That's it. It was a similar thing with Ducati, I would never pay the extra money for the Ducati "special" ecus and just buy the pipes without the ecu as it was never worth the extra silly money they charged for them and had no practical effect on engine performance with a Ducati. Those ecu's just added 3% fuel everywhere and you paid around 1500 dollars for them. Ciao

Same as a v11 Sport there is no real need to. The only thing that will cause there to be residual pressure in the lines is the internal check valve in the pump at the discharge. I've never seen one that actually holds pressure after it ages. So when the pump shuts down any pressure in the line dissipates through the pump and back to the tank outlet. If the pump check valve is actually working you will get a small amount of spillage when you remove the hose from the regulator but it won't be spraying everywhere. As the fluid is incompressible and tiny release of fuel either from undoing a line or leakage via the leaking check valve will dump the line pressure immediately. It's never an issue in the usual scenario. Some people with the in tank pumps pull the fuel pump fuse and start the engine apparently which runs briefly but I've never had the need to do so. Ciao

Ciao

Not sure how the hell a drive shaft gets bent but if it is then it's time for a new one I'd say. The only possible option would be a drive shaft specialist but most only tackle the car shafts they are used to dealing with. I personally would have a go at straightening it in a press if it wasn't too bad, but that's me. It's definitely bent is it, I mean if the shaft is full of grease it can stop the splines fully engaging from memory and the suction can make them hard to get apart, or am I dreaming again? I wouldn't be surprised if you stuck a runout gauge on a Guzzi shaft it would have .010"-.020" runout. ciao

Sounds a bit that way although it could also be rear brake related so as the swingarm pulls in slightly the brake drags. Remove the caliper from the plate or pull the pads and see what happens. Ciao

Nope, the whole idea is the movement is restricted so the damper unit doesn't flop around. It's just not restricted enough to stop it pivoting as it should when the steering is turned. Ciao

Yes they do correct. Ciao

Yes I noted the omission also. Ciao

Keep plugging along Pete. Ciao

Thats my point docc the overhead ladder shots make it short on detail you need to asses the condition. Taking images for aesthetic reasons is different and most bikes look really good from 1 or 2 angles and the location and lighting plays a part of course. When advertising a second hand anything it's about detail and evaluating condition. Those low res overhead perspectives just make me think the seller is trying to minimise or avoid revealing something. I also just realised this was a first time poster advertisement in the for sale section. I wonder if it's his bike? Ciao

Worst photography I've seen in an advertisement for a while. What's the point of the "up on a ladder" perspective? Of no utility at all. Ciao

Sounds like me, Irritating in traffic. Ciao

Throw a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank on the way home. Cant hurt and may help. Ciao