Lucky Phil

It took me a while to design it, I'm not fast like that. All the fasteners and bushes are Titanium. The 4 nuts on the on the 6mm fore/aft adjustment bolts are superficious and I may remove them at some point for a neater look. The base of the vertical legs rest on the frame top rail to control any possibility of any rocking movement. I wanted something that could be restored to original without any welding etc. Ciao

I've gone to a high quality Head light docc. Adjustable so it shines exactly where you are looking and if you get a good one with built in charger it gives 15 hours of very bright lighting. Wish they made them when I was working under the cowls of hi bypass gas turbines out in the open tarmac for 30 years of my career. Ciao

I wouldn't agree with that statement personally. Ciao

Yes same as when our hangar floors were coated in a white finish. So much brighter even with the original hangar lighting. Ciao

It's a round ring like a donut that fits on the shock shaft so when the shock approaches full travel the eye end doesn't contact the shock body cap. You wont be able to buy one for a Sachs shock so you'll need to go to a suspension specialist and see if an Ohlins or another brand will work that can be purchased as a spare part. Ciao

Silicone isn't fuel resistant. Ciao

Panelling for looks, insulation, light reflectivity, cleanliness, dust mitigation and some additional security. Plus it just makes for a nicer working environment. Ciao

Yep thats it the shock full travel bumper. Horrible to replace. The spring needs to come off the shock and the eye end removed. I've had to get this done before, quite tricky. Ciao

Through the wiring it can I think Ciao

Don't think so. He means the fuel vent and overflow hose I think. Ciao

Probably would be there's quite a bit of room under there now which helps the cooling but I'll see how it goes. Its in a way better location than my 1198 and they seem to last ok. Ciao

Here's what I did with the V11/V10 front tank mount. I could design a simpler setup for a std V11 with fore and aft adjustability but it would raise the front of the tank maybe 10mm which wouldn't matter and probably be hard to pick. My V11/V10 mount raised the tank 40mm which was necessary so I thought I may as well make it adjustable. The tank sealant I used on the commercial jet fuel tanks for 40 years was PR-1422. The "A" was the runny one and the "B" the non runny version. Ciao

The std tank benefits from greasing the rubber pucks when installing the tank. My greeny tank is the same size as the day it left the factory, never seen ethanol though. Ciao

Yes Chuck that's a good example as well. Old race engines are generally RPM limited as well when the cases get to a certain age and it becomes impossible to find replacements. It's just the nature of the material. doesn't affect most people because old engines are generally used on old road bikes and aren't under enough stress to cause an issue so they are still over engineered for the application. Start hammering them in classic and post classic racing and things are a bit different. Ciao

Aluminium alloys dont become brittle because they are sealed from oil. They get brittle because they age. That's the nature of aluminium alloy it hardens with age. Ciao

Not sure docc but the l/h head on my original engine was affected and a mates MK4 Le mans had porous crankcases around the r/h cylinder base. Plenty with Ducati's. You'll know it if you've got it, an oil leak you just cant seem to fix is the clue. Ciao

I crack checked all my heads for the guide cracking issue. Ciao

What Ducati? I bought a factory alloy tank for my 1198. Ciao

The only genuine solution docc is an alloy tank. You could of course have a spare tank and periodically rotate them on the bike so the one not in use is dedicated to drying out. Then swap them around and dry out the other, or coat the tank. Ciao

Now you know why when I designed my new front tank mount for the V11/V10 project I made the mount adjustable up/dn and fwd/back. You cant remove any material off the dia or the tank will be loose up and down. Only off the rear of the puck. Ciao

The usual basic method is to immerse the part in a warm Loctite 290 bath for an hour or so then remove and rinse off. A friend of mine had his E type Jag engine professionally rebuilt a few years back and the engine guy did this with the brand new sump even before it had been fitted due to history of leaks. If you clean a head or crankcase down thoroughly and put it in an oven at 100 deg C any porosity will usually show up with a very careful detailed look or you can buy a Dye check kit and spray the cases with a light coat of the developer only after a thorough cleaning and drying and that will show it up as well. warmed in the oven even better. Any oil in the porosity will be very obvious as it was on my head images. Dye check kits are cheap, probably around $20 us over there and I've used mine more times than I can remember over the years. Ciao

Yes there's quite a few processers that can be used. The Loctite 290 is basically a low viscosity resin as well. It's obviously best to get full penetration but anything that seals the porosity is fine. Hence external painting by the factories. Ciao

Sorry, with the plate installed and before you fit the sump insert the dipstick and mark it level with the plate lower surface then remove the stick and drill a hole. This way you know exactly when the oil level is at the bottom of the plate which is full. Ciao

Nice video. A good thing to do once you have the plate installed is to drop the dipstick in the hole and mark it level with the bottom face of the Roper plate, remove and drill a 1.5mm hole in the dipstick as your new "full" mark. Ciao