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Lucky Phil

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Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. I have some for the high mount mufflers. Ciao
  2. The way to drill out the old hole straight is to use a bush with the same size ID as the drill and hold it against the surface and run the drill through that. Obviously the bigger the bush OD the better but this provides you with a drilling guide perpendicular to the mounting face to use. Ciao
  3. Not sure I understand your response but as i said the linier type dont work as in the fuelling will be wrong. http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html Ciao
  4. Old post I know but if the TPS hasn't got the slotted mount holes it wont work on a Guzzi V11. The non slotted version has a linier output and the slotted std version has the NON linier output. Ciao
  5. You need to be an Aussie or an Englishman. Cattle dog.........catalogue, get it. It's called rhyming slang. Ciao
  6. My parts cattle dog shows a separate # for the non Ohlins carbon guard. Yes you need to remove the front wheel to fit it. PITA. Ciao
  7. Which dealer was that and what was the cost? Ciao
  8. The most important question with any form of running issue.......Is it fitted with a Power Commander? Ciao
  9. I could listen to Shelby Foote talk all day. If honey pouring from a jar made sound it would be like his discourse. Ciao
  10. What a totally impractical and pointless exercise. Ciao
  11. Lucky Phil

    New Tenni

    Hers's my 1198 Ducati with the factory alloy tank. The bare alloy part is a Brushed finish like Scotchbright covered in clear gloss. Leaving an alloy tank a completely polished finish looks too much of a wank to me. Its got that "look at me I'm aluminium" dorky feel about it. A painted finish with a section of brushed aluminium and cleared over is class. My 1198 has a bit too much aluminium showing for my taste but thats std. The original was plastic but I got a deal on the alloy tank which is 2.5L bigger. Ciao
  12. Oh ok sorry I've missed something in the previous posts. Yes you can get away with a nitrile o ring there but a Viton or FKM would be better. I use Viton/FKM wherever possible on everything now. As I mentioned the material is totally unaffected by fuel and also has better heat tolerance. Nitrile has maximum temperature threshold of 100 deg C where Viton is somewhere around twice that. There are many areas where you engine sees temps in excess of 100 deg C and this is why old head o rings for example go hard and leak. Viton seals stay flexible in these conditions. Guzzi has superseded some o rings with Viton over the years, such as the orings that go around the cylinder studs on the Daytona engines. BTW look after that tank flange adapter, they are unobtainable now. Ciao
  13. Std o ring measurement is defined by ID and cross section. Ciao
  14. If you are referring to the seal between the tap and the adapter on the tank then an oring is not appropriate. This particular seal is as I said some sort of square section plastic material as it has no compression control when tightened. If you use an o ring there it will just get crushed when you tighten the tap body nut. No sealer is required when using the std square section plastic/Teflon seal and it survives multiple fitments just fine. Buna -n seals or Nitrile aren't recommended in gasoline, they swell, however having said that as long as its a stationary seal then that can still work. In addition Nitrile seals come in quite a few subtle variations and some swell more than others. Problem is when you undo the joint the swollen oring is now unable to be re fitted. Viton or FKM are totally fuel proof and what I recommend. As I said though a rubber O ring is the wrong seal in the tap to adaptor location. The std seal is what it is for a reason. Ciao
  15. This flange gasket almost never leaks, its some sort of hard plastic material. Its not an oring BTW but a square section and around 2mm thick. I've had them on and off many times with the same gasket used and never an issue. Check to make sure your fuel tap body isn't cracked. I had a new fuel tap body leaking in the open position and thought it was the seals. Turned out to be a hairline crack in the body itself. The crappy Nitrile seals swell so much that eventually opening and closing them with pliers with the seals half jamming cracks the body as the body is less than 1mm wall section in some places. This cracked tap was fine until I closed it and then months later refitted the tank opened the valve and its leaking. ciao
  16. For him it will be an easy task, maybe an hour or so. The key is the Viton/FKM material orings in the correct size as outlined in the post. Ciao
  17. Use the correct sized Viton or FKM seals and modify the tap body and spool to suit. If you send me one I'll do it for you. Might mean a month in postage though. Ciao
  18. I think he is. Actually, I know he is. Ciao
  19. Not really. It's a "Green" 2 stroke fuel originally developed for OH&S reasons for Scandinavian forestry workers that used chainsaws and cutters all day and needed some reduced exposure to the exhaust fumes. Seems it morphed and expanded into 4 stroke fuel as well and as is the norm for a relatively small bespoke manufacturer they want to expand their market reach with all sorts of claims for everyday users. The usual marketing dross you get these days. Ciao
  20. Great story docc and one I didn't know. I had always assumed it was a product of the 19th Century. I even have the Civil War sound track I liked the music from the doco so much. I heard a busker playing it on a violin at my local village about 3 years ago and said to her "I bet I'm the only person here today apart from you that knows what that song is" Thinking it was from the 19th century and she agreed. Knowing now its only a recent song I feel a bit foolish, LOL. Ciao
  21. Yep Bob Sega was on my cars cassette player back in the 70's docc. Here's one of my all time favourite pieces. I'm sure you'll know it docc. Ciao
  22. Checked this out but nah, didn't dig it. Then again 95% of covers I dont think are better than the original. Ciao
  23. I didn't say those that enjoy a peaky power band are wrong I said "I" found it of less utility and not any fun same as road racer these days. Thats what they all like about the Triumph engine in Moto2 now, more torque. As for comparing a V11 to and FZR 400 well that's just silly and the reason I used a GSXR1100 as an example. The "my buddy says" stuff I won't comment on. Ciao
  24. I've never found a situation where a peaky or top end weighted power band was of any utility or fun. It was at best just a consequence of obtaining the required power. As ICE technology became refined the ability to get decent torque over a wider rpm range and maintain the top end power improved engines became more useful. Even at the elite level of road racing these days it's all about making the torque delivery to the rear tyre controllable whether mechanically or electronically. A V11 engine isn't in fact a very flexible engine to start with as its spread of torque and power is quite narrow. From 3500-4750 rpm the torque curve falls flat on its face and its all done by 5500 rpm. Compared to an old GSXR1100 and although its 12 Ft/lbs less peak torque its smooth and straight climb from 2500 to 9000 rpm. So a lumpy 3000 rpm curve compared to a straight smooth 6500 rpm torque spread. Which ones more flexible? In other words the std V11 engine is already a narrow torque band engine compared to its UJM contemporary. Its a sharp but brief torque hit with holes in it. Combine that with a heavy flywheel and people seem to think its got a wide spread of torque and is "flexible", it's not. Anything you do to a V11 engine that doesn't help fill in the std midrange hole is just silly stuff in my view. Ciao
  25. Micky Mouse ears. Ciao
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