Lucky Phil

I made this point earlier. What sort of magical improvement can you expect with the sensor in the left header only? The 15M has an offset map for the r/h cylinder and runs slightly different fueling to the l/h cylinder. If you are going to run a Lambda then you need the sensor in the crossover or run one in each header to get the most benefit. Ciao

I think you miss my point. Nobody is arguing a wide band lambda sensor isn't way better instrument than a std narrow band sensor, that's something that's been known for years. My argument is you can have a very nicely running engine with NO lambda sensor at all OR the lambda probe disabled which lots of people do. The lambda sensor isn't some magical device and the answer to good fuel injection. If you are going to have one installed and operational then surprise,surprise the more expensive higher spec one will do a better job. Ciao

Are you really comparing a Stelvio to a Cali 1400!? Like comparing a Ducati Multistrada to a Diavel Ciao

You need to at the very least remove the two rear subframe bolts on the main frame and rotate it forward so you can remove the front cover. If you look at my V11 timing gear install I removed the whole front subframe so I'm thinking full removal is necessary. Dont forget the support the engine at the front when you do this. Ciao

We are again getting into the area of the "Theorists" as opposed to actuality. Every bike I currently own carburates perfectly on an open loop injection system and so has pretty much every bike I've owned over the last 35 years when I got my first injected bike. As I have pointed out the open loop only works on steady state throttle anyway and was primarily an emission driven facility and to keep cat converters alive. How often do people think the Closed loop feature is actually doing anything? How often are you in a steady state throttle situation? Reading your post makes it seem like if your bike doesn't have a "closed loop" system then it's going to carburate horribly and return very poor fuel economy.The facts dont of course bear this out. A nicely mapped open loop system engine will be a very pleasant thing to ride and will carburate very nicely. Personally the closed loop function is just another thing to go wrong that I dont see a great benefit to except that on a freeway it may return slightly better economy and lower emissions. Lots of owners out there simply disable it anyway via Guzzidiag. The K series BMW's had the worst injection system I've ever experienced with it's inlet flow sensor that gave the slowest throttle response you could imagine. Ok system for a car but when you want an engine to respond instantly to the right wrist for rapid down shifts it was horrible. The K75 was even worse than the K100 Ciao

Yes it is. Unwise to ride it until its fixed. Make sure the wire is connected to the switch, if it is then its most likely the switch, they are unreliable. Pull off the wire and earth it against the engine case and turn the ignition on and see if the light comes on. If id does its the switch and if not its either the bulb or a wiring fault/open circuit. Ciao

A few observations. As far as I'm aware the lambda closed loop function operates in steady state throttle only so acceleration/deceleration wont be affected. Although there is temp and baro corrections applied to the mapping it doesn't mean the engine on the V11 will always run with the same responsiveness and control in all conditions. If the original map isn't quite optimal then changing engine and oat temp will still affect the way it runs, so dont count your chickens just yet. Many of us have experienced the dreaded 3000rpm hickup at one temperature and conditions and then completely fine at another set of conditions. After I went to gear driven cam I rode the bike for miles deliberately trying to induce the hickup to no avail. A few rides later in different conditions there it was again. Popping on the over run can be eliminated with either by enriching the CO slightly or better still adjusting the fuel map in the area it occurs at the min throttle point on the fuel map. Assuming of course there are no exhaust leaks or leaking exhaust valves. Another point, with your lambda sensor fitted to one header pipe only you are getting corrections for the left cylinder only and the right and left have different maps due to their different fuelling and ignition requirements. Ciao

Have you gone into the errors page and cleared any errors? Don't know if it will help but you cant change the CO until errors are cleared. Ciao

No, I have a lathe but I'm VERY ordinary on it. Chucks the house machinist:) Aircraft engineer was my field. Researching parts is where the time goes mainly and it's often many hours involved. Fortunately I also know some very smart and experienced people. My friend told me that the bushes were standard DU steel backed, bronze coated with an additional metal-polymer coating available at any bearing shop. This of course after I'd spent hours in research:) Interestingly the old bushes after removal had a part number on the back and some sort of company logo which I couldn't identify even with a mag glass. So by chance during research I managed to source the company that made the original bushes that Weber used by the numbers and logo together. I figured you may as well use the originals but I have some generic bushes as well that work perfectly fine. The Yamaha seals was just internet research and cross referencing the sizes. The size is quite common for 8mm throttle body shafts it seems. I'm more surprised Yamaha sells them as a spare part. Good one Yamaha. My objective is to show that this can be done at home by anyone with some readily available tools. The Oxy set is the only thing and is important as I mentioned and the screws identified need a quick hit with intense heat. Weber as usual have prioritised nothing coming loose over ease of maintenance which is understandable but it makes removal in situ a real PITA. Ciao

Thanks for the images of the staked screws Meinolf. I didn't measure the edges of the plates but I assumed the orientation was important probably for the reasons you mentioned. Thanks for confirming and letting us know. The set I'm doing now I'm going to use some low profile/button head Titanium screws. I had some TI cap screws but I couldn't machine enough off the heads to get them better than the originals while still having adequate driving hex. Ciao

So I've just been rebuilding my throttle bodies due to bush wear and leaking seals. Although this is for the Daytona side flow bodies the top feed bodies are exactly the same in detail. So first thing to do is remove the throttle bodies which requires separating the cross supports on the bike. The top steel support fasteners come out fairly easily but the lower alloy cross brace held by the countersunk 5mm bolts are super hard. Dont even consider removing these without heat and a lot of concentrated heat. You need a fine tip oxy torch with a hard flame. So it needs a lot of heat directly on the head of the screw for longer than is really comfortable. Forget using a small propane torch it wont be enough. Even a soft flame with the oxy isn't enough. You only need to remove 2 screws on one throttle body lower brace as this will allow both to be removed and both ends of the upper steel brace which as I said the screws remove easily.A word or warning or caution here. My advice is to use the heat as described on the L/H throttle body screws only and leave the R/H alone. Reason being is that the aluminium cross brace on the R/H side has been milled to a fairly thin section and can be damaged on the end by the conducted heat. You wont haw any issues on the L/H side as the brace is a much heavier section. After you remove the throttle bodies the shaft is held in buy a circlip on one side. The left needs the throttle cable sector removed first. Dont undo the nut without restraining the cable sector itself so the torque isn't transmitted through the shaft. You also need to remove the throttle plate assy. This is the trickiest part of the job. The 2 4mm screws that hold the throttle plate have the tail end staked. You need to grind the tails off the screws so they can be removed. I did this with a die grinder and a carbon tungsten cutter and reused the screws on one set of throttle bodies but will use new Titanium screws on the other. Mark the throttle plate so you can install it in the correct orientation.(Importanto) Also try and make sure there are no distorted/damaged threads left after grinding off the staking as you dont want to damage the threads in the throttle shaft whilst unscrewing the fasteners. Best way to do this is to grind the screws down to almost flush with the the shaft and carefully remove them. If they jam up a little screw them back in and use a small right angle pick to clean up the distorted thread and try again.The shaft only has a few threads in it so it's important they aren't damaged. It's not as hard as it sounds just take time and caare removing the screws. Here's an image of the completed installation. I'll add an image of the staked screws before grinding later. Here's the circlip with the washer under it and under the washer is the seal. Hears the other side with a new seal installed just for reference. Note the orientation of the seal which looks backwards but this is the way it needs to be. Remember the vacuum is inside and the pressure ( atmospheric) is outside which is opposite to most instillation. Half the original seals were around the wrong way and one was missing altogether on the 2 sets of throttle bodies I have done. Once the shaft has been removed its time to extract the old bushes. I used an old whitworth taper tap because I din't have a 9mm taper. Thread it into the bush about 5 turns and then use a drift from the opposite side on the end of the tap to knock out the bush. I use a piece of wood with a hole in it to support the TB. Here's what you end up with, an old bush on the tap. TB with bush removed. Next up clean out the bushing bore and apply a little grease of your choice in preparation to install the new bush. Here's the new bushes and seals. Bushes are Glycodur brand DU bushes p/n 081008F although any standard DU 8x10x8 bush will be fine. Cost around $2 each. The seals are Yamaha p/n 256-14997-00-(00) at around $3 each. EDIT..... These Viton ones look even better but more pricey. https://ca-cycleworks.com/t-seal.html I made up a simple installation tool to press the bushes in. very simple. Next use the tool to press in the new bush. New bush and seal installed. Repeat for the other side. Refit the shaft and seals in the correct orientation and refit the cir-clip and washer and re fit the cable sector and shaft nut supporting the sector as you tighten the nut. So to install the throttle plate insert it in the correct orientation as you marked it during removal and install the screws loosely. Make sure the throttle plate and shaft is completely closed with the throttle plate against the throttle body bore( back off the idle screw if fitted so the plate contacts the TB bore to align the plate) then tighten the screws. I haven't staked the screws but used blue loctite on them. I've never found a throttle plate screw loose in the 3 sets I've had apart and they dont even use Loctite. The staking isn't to stop the screw loosening only to prevent it coming completely undone, so you can get a turn out of the screws before the staking stops any further rotation. There is a risk in re staking that you might bend or distort the shaft and I'm comfortable with the Loctite doing its job. I have however used some witness marks and can easily check them from time to time but I'm confident it wont be an issue. Later TB's have the screw heads on the upstream side of the throttle plate. Thats it. The only tricky part is die grinding the tails off the throttle plate screws in reality. The rest can be done easily with hand tools and a vice. You now get nice tight shafts which seal well dont drip fuel onto the engine and give a stable idle and easier TPS base setting. Here are some options for the R/H throttle body arm ball fitting. Mercedes but cant remember the p/n. Requires removal of the old ball. Use if ball is worn. Handy bolt on style and works well. There are quite a few of this style available for 8mm ball and 5mm r/h threaded shaft. Plastic/metal and metal with seal. Plenty of choices. Volvo part which has a releasable clip to aid removal. Volvp P/N 946703. $7US each on ebay. Ciao