Steve G.

I fitted a Ferracci airbox kit a few years ago. Clean and re-lube the filter every 6 months. As to power increase, seat of the pants, I don't think so. The induction roar is quite pleasing to the ear however. I think next time I'd save my money and drill holes, and pull off the noise induction snorkels off the top of the factory cover. Steve

I might zoom down to your shop on Saturday if the weather holds Greg. How much is that manual one? Steve

This most probably explains the strange gurgling cavitation sounds my pump emits when this situation arises. You say this insulator is made by Summit? So I could in theory get it from Lordco? [local auto parts store with drag race following]. Steve

I've got a pre 2002 pump system, with the pump located outside the fuel tank, under the centre frame rail. Steve

Either go burn some gas of, or connect a fuel line to the manual petcock you have, and drain it into a jerry can. The tank has to come off. Steve

Much Much appologies for the confusion. I was under my tank today, and must correct that I am not releasing pressure from component #4 in the picture, but indeed from the bottom of the petcock, which on my bike, is just forward of component #4, both of which are on the left side of the bike. Steve

Don't forget to change the oil for the latest quality camel ear sweat!! Steve

I've always burped mine at component #4, the line that goes to it. And it's on the left side of my bike. I drain ALL the pressure off of here to fix it. Don't ask me why, but it does cure the problem. ????? Steve

You have put forward a very good point, and I have an idea. The pressurized system goes right to the bottom of the petcock from the fuel tank. This is where I vent off the pressure. Now, on 2001 bikes with standard electric fuel petcocks, when you turn the ignition on, this automatically opens the petcock, and also ramps up the pump to bring pressure to the system. OK, when you turn the bike off, this automatically shuts the petcock closed, thereby sealing off any pressure built up, which is then elevated during the heating up of static fuel within the heated lines over top of the engine. I'm wondering if a manual petcock, [the one where you have to turn or push the knob to shut off fuel when you want to remove the tank,] would be a cure for this problem? Steve

That's all it took last Sunday. Drained the fuel pressure right off, tightened the fuel clamp up, and it started with no issues. It was probably 92-95 deg F at the time. Might have gotten lucky. Steve

A very common problem on pre 2002 bikes, which have the electric shut off/on switch. I had mine break under warranty in 2003. I should have pressed the dealer to retrofit the manual one fitted from 2002 on, but MG NA would only let them use the electric one. When they got it in, they let me build up the area where the wire ends and the switch body begins, an obvious weak area suceptable to brakage from vibration and wind swinging it around. I loaded it with dow corning silicone so it is stable. I'd still like to get the manual one if they are still available. The thought of eliminating another electrical related failure possibility, and getting rid of another wire out of the maze of friggin' wires from under there makes me think it's just a good idea. You mention that one of the wires is broken. I find this a surprise that your bike still runs, as the switch needs current to open, and I would have assumed that with a wire broken, the fuel petcock would not open to allow fuel into the fuel system. Steve

I recently had an opportunity to ride the 1200 Norge for a weekend, with trade off's back and forth on my old V11. Here are my observations. Clearly these are different bikes from different times. That they came from the same factory, I can't compute in my head. There are some things I genuinely like about the Norge compared to my V11, these I can put to the fact that these are bikes filling different roles in the motorcycle landscape. Some though are genuinely put down to better engineering. For examples, I give you the gearbox, which is clearly better on the new bikes, just as my term on the 1200S. No question, it's a better box. Another, the vibration is definitely under control on the new machines, while still there, I call it more of a power pulse, as it disappears as you let the throttle off. The brakes are extremely good as usual these days with Guzzi, Brembo knows it's stuff. The fit/finish is a very evident upgrade over the spine frames. The sitting position is better than the V11 and the 1200S for comfort, but this is because it's is made as a tourer, so not a negative thing on the V11, different classification of bike. On the negative side, I have nothing good to say about the guage package. The overlapping square information LED window not only looks stupid and out of place, it looks cheap plasticy, and is unreadable when wearing polarised sun glasses. The handlebar switches work fine. Another, the suspension on this model does not lend itself to aggressive back road twisties. In fact, it ground the center stand on many occasions, no matter what we did. The panniers I put in the same catagory as the ones found on the new Triumph Sprint, in other words, entry level quality. Performance wise, I'm sure the extra weight has alot to do with it, but the seat of the pants differences are very clear, this bike is MUCH lazier than my bone stock V11. Overtaking must be done with alot of concentration, as there's not alot of power on hand, and it must be found at the top of the rev range. I'm not going to talk about visual differences or preferences, as one mans views are different on many things. It is handsome, but not a ground breaker. The Norge is a sport tourer, with much stronger emphasis on tour. It will not be able to keep up to the competition, the closest being the R1200RT Beemer. It will get spanked in every catagory that is tested. Character is the one thing it still has, although it has been severely emasculated from models of previous years. The Vtwin charm is still there, but just barely. The bike was very nice along long gracefull sweapers, but when the roads were tight, I wished I was on the V11. Steve

I don't think you should be paranoid about taking it on long runs, with this issue anyways. I've put some big runs on my bike, from Vancouver to southern Utah, California, Montana, encountering serious heat. This vapour lock issue has never stopped me, but has on rare occasion delayed me by as much as 2 hrs. In the early stages I was still unsure what the problem was, and was looking elsewere on the bike. Now that I know what the problem, and fix are, I can clear the problem within 15 minutes, like I did the other day in the middle of nowhere. The only thing to be aware is the possibility of a flash point as you went the gas/air mixture, as it drips on the hot exhaust. I won't bother relocating the fuel pump, as there's not much room to be had on this machine. I may decide to buy more heat shielding to wrap the pump, as I understand from fellow V11 local owner Ryan that it's working for him. I'm still not 100% convinced it's the pump that's getting hot, but the fuel lines snaking around between the tank and engine V. For those post 2001 bikes with pump in the tank, I'm thinking the pump being immersed in fuel is the best way to keep the pump, and fuel cooler. Steve

You could of course tour on just about anything. But in the context of what's available out there today, and what's available in the touring catagory, this is not a touring bike. It could however be considered in the sport touring catagory, as there are some bikes in that catagory as well as the V11 Lemans that do not offer he range you are looking for. As mentioned above, with the internal tank fuel pump, you could in theory expect a slightly longer range on pre-2002 bikes, which have an external fuel pump. I've just come back from a 2 day 1300km ride on the V11. One thing I was forced to experiment with and found an interesting thing with was the available fuel. I use 94 octane in Canada, highest available. When we went into the U.S., where, on the west coast, the best is 92 octane, sometimes in the back woods the best you will find is 91. Well, I have clear proof that I got better mileage on the lower octane fuel. This makes sense of course, because all 'high octane' uses to stop pre-detonation [pinging] is a flame inhibitor, to prevent this problem. So the lower octane fuels actually flame and burn better, easier. One time, I could only find 87. I managed to get 10% better economy over the 94 Chevron. As long as you avoid turning the throttle back hard, or long steep climbs with a head wind, you can avoid pinging and keep a steady 75 mph cruising speed. Steve

May 17th at a gas stop just north of Coulee Dam, Washington, 92deg F, the bloody samew thing happened to me, again! I thought I had it fixed, as it had no issues in 2 1/2 yrs since I re-routed the fuel lines away from the engine. The fix this time was very quick though. I told the guys I was with that I'd meet them back at the hotel, but they wanted to fix it. My usual 'burping' involves loosening the fuel line clamp under the left side, at the on/off valve. There was no vapour [air] this time, just a release of pressurized gas, spraying about 2 ounces in about 1 1/2 minutes. I put the fuel clamp tight, started up right away with no issues, was no problem after that. I'm wondering if this has something to do with an over pressurisation of the lines, which is causing technical problems. I'm not sure what the proper psi of the system is at operating conditions, but the way it sprayed out, it was at least 15 psi, and most EFI systems on bikes are less than 5 psi. Just so we are clear on what actually is happening to my bike during these times. After as little as a 5 minute stop in hot weather and regular running temperature engine, a turn of the key starts a definitely different sounding fuel pump ramp up, almost like a bubbling purcolating sound. The engine almost always starts right of like usual, but when the throttle is turned just slightly, the begins an inconsistant back firing, and stuttering, which gets worse the more you turn the throttle, until when you turn the throttle to near full open, the engine struggles to reach rpms, and will stall in a giant heave eventually. It pisses me off, and, I starting to get impatient with this machine. If it continues, and if other things start niggling again, this may just push me to change. This is the only issue I've had with it in over 4 yrs, after a difficult first 3 yrs. I need to find this problem, soon. Steve

I agree here. There are some serious talent in engineering. There are also a nerve wrenching amount of crackpot engineers in the business I'm associated. There are MANY engineers who are extremely talented at study, theory, and all things that make a student a grade A student. Alot of these however are pitiful at practical hands on design, something that is needed for a true engineer. With the crossover in question, this is a practice that has been used for decades of course. Norton's Commando series adopted a crossover when they jumped from 750cc to 850cc engine size. In fact hp figures summarily dropped at that point in factory specs and in seat of the pants. These were also a major PITA for leaks and header cracks. As for power gain, I can't remember the last time I saw a race bike with the crossover still attached. If I had a post 2002 spine frame bike, the crossover would be very very GONE. Like my 850 Commando, I find them universally not easy on the eyes, in fact they are quite friggin' ugly. Steve

I've done 310kms [around 194 miles] once, during a tour I did through NE California. I had no choice, there were no fuel stops. I don't think you should try it consistantly, as there are times when you will run dry depending on how hard your wrist is acting. Mods to the EFI will mean even more lean running, something I would not do with this bike. Steve

I agree with Greg. While I'm sure Mr. Roper will at some time chime in calling us silly twats for spending silly money on oil, and expound the use of distilled Yak ear wax, I will continue to use motorcycle specific oil. My current inventory of oil specific to bikes is large, because I have different bikes with different demands on oil. My RC30 demands the best I can find, with extreme heat [3 radiators giving me heat blisters sometimes] , wet clutch, and shared gearbox, this application will kill car oil, even turbo deisel truck [API CC] oils within 300 miles. 3 yrs ago, I caught wind of a retiring ELF Petroleum agent here on the west coast. He had a 2 car garage full to the rafters he was selling off, cash. I purchased enough ELF MOTO 4XT TECH 100% synthetic 10W50 to feed all 7 of my bikes for the next 15 yrs, about 80 litres, purchased for $3.25cdn /litre. That's about 2.05Euro/litre. I think I did ok, as equivalent oil like that is around here is about $13.50/litre now. It's rated JASO MA, API SG, and JASO T903. I also have some Amzoil 20W50 100% synth., and for my old Norton, I use Castrol 20W50 motorcycle, API Spec SG. And Mobil 1 15W-50 Sythetic [make sure it's got a black cap on the bottle!!!]. Putting in either the ELF, Mobil 1 black cap, or Amzoil is overkill on a Guzzi. The fact that it has a dry clutch, and separate gearbox means the engine has a better chance of avoiding viscosity breakdown. Steve

I remember when you bought it, you had big plans for it. Has it really been machanically disappointing ? Steve

I don't know how he's doing it. He had 4 of the silly things at the swap meet 2 wks ago. Maybe being Chinese has something to do with it! Steve

Totally agree with your thoughts. Steve

Yes I've ridden the 1200S, and a Breva 1100. I was interested as well at a possible upgrade [no sense in going sideways or a step down]. Essentially, if you take the bodywork off of each, it's the same bike. If there's more power out of the 1200S, I'd have to wait to break in each, and do a roll on right together, seat of the pants, it's close. Anyways, the thing that pissed me off the most with the 1200S is that they put on classic low handlebars, but use the same footpeg location. So you are making a reach forward, but your feet are then in front of your main body core, instead of where I think they should be, right under your hip bone. This confirms for me that this is literally a cosmetic makover, nothing else. That said, it's looks sportier, 'in' better. Still has that useless fobbery chrome thing below the tank, thankfully eliminated with the Norge. The EFI is the standard upgraded system which includes the computer controlled cold start system. Steve

The hose in the picture that is cracking? This is what I did. Take the hose off, spin the fitting out of the intake manifold on both sides, and throw them in your tool box. You will need to spin them back in temporarily when you decide to syncronize the two injectors. Next, get a allen head [hex head] bolt the same thread as the fittings, spin them into the threaded holes, DONE! One less un-needed hose, in an effort to untangle the mess these things have underneath the tank. The front universal joint greasing procedure will require the removal of the rear wheel, and the dropping off of the rear hub. This will allow the front portion of the drive shaft to be dropped "carefully" down to gain access to the grease nipple. This prodecdure will be a good time to grease the splines bewteeen the wheel and the hub. In fact, if this has never been done [and there is strong proof it was not done often at the factory] you may have alot of trouble sliding the wheel off the hub when the rear axle is slid out. The grease gun I use is made by Plews & Edelmann http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm...ocation_id=2723 , and I use the variable position adapter 360 deg swivel fitting http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm...ocation_id=2726 and have it on a flexible hosehttp://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2239&location_id=2726 . Steve

Next time you see a product line up of Mobil oils, you will see different colored caps. Last I checked, black caps were bike oils. NOT Blue or red. Steve And yes, there most definitely are differences. And I can't wait for Mr. Roper's visit, to entertain with waxing poetic stances on the qualities of fermented Yak sweat being good enough for the mighty MG big block.

Gosh, that's a big move, IOM down to NZ south isle?!!! Steve