Steve G.

The biggest problem with this bevel drive unit which connects the speedo drive to the gearbox, is that it sometimes disengorges itself of it's worm gear [of course while moving, so it flies off into the ditch]. The end cap on some of them was not crimped/melted up enough, and the cap flies away allowing the gear to fall out. Best to get yours, and get a solder gun or such, and just touch it around the end to plastic weld it shut better. Ciao, Steve G.

That old preconception about Guzzi electrics were for the most part true. These days, things are much better. As for running two up, yeah I guess you could, but after being a passenger on the back of a Beemer, the novelty of being on the back seat of a V11/Lemans will wear off plenty quick indeed. A replaceement seat would be needed soon for the passenger. The sound of a Guzzi with sport/performance exhaust is very pleasing. While a Ducati would have that guteral boom, a Guzzi has an ever more guteral boom, yet also a sound not unlike a baby v8 at high revs. Ciao, Steve G.

Sanders did it in 19 days? Bloody amazing!! Wonder how many tickets he got. That's about 1900 miles per day. Ciao, Steve G.

Probably the best 14$cdn I've spent, the throttlelocker. It works very well to reduce hand/arm fatigue, but because of the sensitive nature of the V11 throttle, a good bump can make the bike accelerate quickly when you don't want it. Ciao, Steve G.

Guzzi is your only option on this one. I lost mine 6 months ago, riding along, and suddenly the speedo drops to zero. Turns out the early V11's had a gear cluster in these things that would simply decide to spit themselves out on the side of the road. I got a new "improved" one from MPH, forget the price, but something like $100 us. It's all good now. Ciao, Steve G.

This is all about cafe racers, and Guzzi only makes standards now. Ciao, Steve G.

Dr. Gil, First off, like the rest of the threads, I'm really glad you are OK! Super glad!!!! I compliment you on you're choice of roads, 299 is a classic northern California bike road. Second, I'm about to give you crap. Motorcycling is focus, 6th sense focus, all focus, everything focus, in the total picture focus!!! Side stand, whether it has an electronic shut-off or not, do the mental walk-a-bout, and simply be in the deal. You clearly need to be on a bike, for the wellbeing of yourself, and after this unfortunate thing, you have to get on a bike, and very soon. If it becomes clear your Lemans has reached TL [total loss] status with the insurance company, it is very important you get another Lemans ASAP. It is very important for your well-being that you get on a bike very quickly. Ciao, Steve G.

Ground clearance was an issue before I installed the footrest kits, and I had ground off 3/4" off the side stand on the left, and touched down the front leading edge of the can on the right, before they were put on. Now, the footrests are doing what they should be doing, offering me fair warning by dragging loudly before other parts that don't fold up!!! Raising the seat may be an option, except I already find the handlebars at the lowest limit already, and rasing the seat would just make that worse for me. Ciao, Steve G.

Hi Pete, My notes on the two Laverdas was not comparing the Laverda engine to a Guzzi engine, but to show how superior synthetic is compared to mineral grade, under a situation that, agreed, is almost a worst case scenario, the Laverda 3 cylinder engine. The sheering effect of roller bearings throughout, wet clutch, shared gearbox, AND, nothing but a metal screen for a filter. A Laverda engine demands the very best oil. While I very much agree that deisel oil [in North America, it is generally rated API spec CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, or all of the above, meaning turbo deisel rated], and would use it in a Moto Guzzi engine, I would be carefull using it in an engine of shared gearbox, etc. The main reason is deisel oil does not have a high sheer capability, to combat against the meshing teeth of the gearbox. So, like I did when I was breaking in my Honda CBX engine, I used Castrol RX Super Deisel 15-40, but changed the oil at 500 miles, and again 1000 miles later. I should note that while I have seen full synthetic deisel oil, I have yet to find 15-50/20-50 synthetic deisel where I live. Otherwise, I would consider it an option for the Guzzi. Another thing Pete points out is true, that Guzzi engines, like Laverda engines, are quite overbuilt, and Guzzi engines do not overly stress modern oils as other 'extremely high output engines' today. But, Mr. Roper would agree with me that the state of tune of an engine in an old Convert, or 850 T is much softer than the V11-Lemans engine. In fact, I'll go out on a limb by saying I think that Guzzi has reached the apex [or very close to it] of engine output without sacrificing reliabilty with this old 2 valve lump in the V11. They would have to use cam profiles and compression ratios that would render this engine not a pleasant one for regular street use. This noted, I would say that an oil better than Pete's recomended "Yak Spit" or even "Yak Butter" might be in order for the V11's state of tune. Ciao, Steve G.

Nothing improves fuel mileage on these engines as much as a long breakin, which these engines need. Your 3200 miles has not loosened the engine up, it will take 10,000 miles till this engine is 'happy'. Same goes for the gearbox. In fact everything gets better with mileage. When my bike was brand new, the clutch would slip, now it does not. There were wet areas where gaskets and seals were showing incontinence, but regular use often gets rid of these. Ciao, Steve G.

No, it's not Stucci, it's made by Givi, a maker of universal fit fairings and small screens. Made in Italy, they can be purchased from almost any bike shop through their wholesaler. Online, go to Givi.it . Go to the fairings and screens section, the one on my bike is model #A750. They come in many colors, unfortunately for me not the Shock Green that my bike is. Ciao, Steve G.

Take a look at my profile page, I've got a picture of a Givi painted same color. It gives torso wind block right up to the bottom of my helmet, no protection to arms though. Ciao, Steve G.

I'm 6'4", and I had to lower the footrests for comfort. I got the old kit from Moto Evolusione, but they don't have it any more, It cost 20$us, basically it moves the footrests to the lower holes and more rearset holes. Ciao, Steve G.

I love oil threads. Whether you use synthetic or crude oil based oil is really based on how cheap you are. One thing I can say is not to even bother spending the extra money on semi-synthetics. There is no minimum guideline on percentage of volume of synthetics, so you just don't know if you are getting 50/50 or 90/10 or 10/90 mix. So don't bother. The thickness viscosity is of little concern, IF, you use full synthetic, as it simply does not alter it's viscosity through heat variables, and mineral grade most definitely does. If you plan on changing your oil based on the owners manual specs [10,000kms] you had better be using full synthetic. Period. In early May I ran my Laverda from Vancouver B.C. to Los Angeles CA., 3.300 miles return, whilst running 15-50 Mobil 1 black cap [motorcycle happy API spec SG] and a buddy ran his Laverda down as well, in exact state of tune, running Castrol GTX motorcycle happy 20-50 mineral gradeAPI spec SG. In L.A., his oil was charcoal black, in fact burnt, not darkened from carbon deposits. My oil was the color of honey. His oil dripped off of the dipstick like water, mine dripped off like fresh oil. He changed his oil, I ran my bike back home. At home his oil was burnt to shit black, mine was the color of honey. His dripped like water, mine like oil. By all means use mineral grade oil if that is what you budget, but you better change it after every 2000miles/3000kms, because it will be toast. If synthetic, avoid Motul, only because it is stupidly priced. There are good bike synthetics at less than half Motul's. Ciao, Steve G.

I purchased mine directly from the supplier, Greenwich Electronics in Greenwich, Rhode Island, USA. Fantastic people to deal with, and very trusting I might add. Because they are a wholesale supplier, they take no credit cards, and a minimum of 10 relays sold. They sent them off to me trusting I would pay. I made sure I covered all costs and more, considering banks in the U.S. often charge a service charge to cash checks or money orders from a non U.S. source. As they are quite close to the Canadian border, I think they felt less risk in sending them off, even though I'm 5000 miles away on the other side of the continent.. Sending relays to Europe may require pre-payment, which I would not worry about with these people, they are obviously very trustworthy. The 10 relays is not much of an issue, as they sell them for something like $2.75us each!!!!! I sent them a postal money order for $40U.S. from what I remember. Heck, my local Guzzi dealer wants $55U.S. each, for the non-performing Bosch or Seimens!!! I've put a couple on my Beemer as they use a couple of those inferior Bosch units as well. A couple extra in my tool kit just in case. GEI part # AR4-012-C11. It's made in China, but hey, it works better than those Seimens or Bosch units. I think this is made to take on higher workload specs. Just very slightly higher than original, perhaps 3mm, with width and depth identical. I have no problems with underseat clearance on my '01 V11. Ciao, Steve G.

5000 kms of use has pretty well confirmed that the GEI micro-relays installed this spring has eliminated the "relay" issue on the 1999-2001 V11's. Absolutely no problems, it is now a non issue. Thanks very much to those who brought this option up on this forum. And no thanks to the dealers who had no idea how to cure it.

I'm not saying it's politically correct or not, in fact I think it's way cool. I am the original poster boy for non-politically correct. I just note that with that amount of power, it takes 0 skill to do this. You happen to see how tough it is often for him to keep it up, as the turbo spins up, he has to roll off or flip backwards. As for putting innocent people in danger, WHO? The only guy that's gunna "get it" is him if everything goes wrong. Ciao, Steve G.

The manual shows which drain plug to remove. The oil filter requires a filter wrench put on the end of a ratchet. The BMW tire repair kit should be in everyones tool kit. A month ago I was with 4 bikes, 60 miles from the nearest town when a buddy on his big K bike ran over a chunck of bottle on the road. Not a puncture, more like a 1" cut to the tire. It did take 3 of the rubber inserts, but it worked, and the tire is still being used today. The best $25us a person could buy. Ciao, Steve G.

Sounds like heat related vapour lock. The fuel system on these are prone to this during the summer time, and I will assume you live in an area that gets warm during the summer. I'll bet it does not do it when you first head out on the ride. Ciao, Steve G.

Any squid can pull the trigger on 500hp. Ciao, Steve G.

Nicky Hayden has always been a favourite of mine during the AMA years, especially when compared to that arrogant autotron Mat Mladin. He pronounces a pride of his American citizenship in an almost innocent soft manner, which is a breath of fresh air to a non American like myself. It looks very good on him and his fellow citizens, and he is a great country ambassador. As well, like Rossi, he genuinely seems to be enjoying motorcycle racing immensely. It is way better to watch competitors who you know are having a gas at what they are doing for a living. His time will come, he has an incredible natural talent [perhaps not to the degree of Rossi] which cannot be supressed. Barring injury, I predict he will be a world champion within 5 yrs. Ciao, Steve G.

Now I have to say that these pictures show how Moto Guzzi SHOULD have placed their mini fairing on the later spine frames. This looks "right". It looks more "incorporated" to the bike. Well done!! Ciao, Steve G.

Nicky may be for real, but not yet. We'll have to wait until Mr. Rossi burns out or gets bored, or [heaven forbid] crashes and hurts himself. As it stands, Rossi is still far and away THE man on 2 wheels. No question! Ciao, Steve G.

I've always had "issues" with the Coppa visually. That protruding fairing just does not flow like the non-faired bikes. It is fixed too far away from the triple tree/handlbar mount. The Scura all the way for me. Ciao, Steve G.

The seats on this series of machine were [i believe] designed for the sitting position/weight bias of the original V11, which had lower bars than your Lemans. This placed more weight on the wrists, and feet, and less on the seat. It may well be that you have to get a better seat, especially if you are planning to get taller bars, placing even more weight on the posterior. The vibration of a Moto Guzzi is, well, vibration all right. I say this, pointing out that I am a long time owner of a Norton Commando, a serious vibrator at slow speeds, and a Laverda Jota, a violent shaker at speeds over 90mph. There are many ways which have been used by owners of this series of machines to reduce this. I found the vibration of my '01 V11 to be verging on totally unacceptable when brand new. With the characteristic slow breaking in of these engines, I was surprised how the thing mellowed, seemingly [and probably actually] needing less power to run itself, realizing that it is in fact the working power pulses that cause the uncomfortable vibes, as there is virtually nothing when the engine is not "working". Additionally, I have experimented with several things to reduce/eliminate this characteristic. Bar end weights sourced from Moto International offered an instant and satisfactory fix. But my latest fix has all but totally eliminated the situation. I have poured melted lead [outside of course, nasty to breath] into the end of each handlebar, followed by installation of chrome Napolean Baren bar end mirrors. As for the noise, well, I don't recall you mentioning if you have stock mufflers or not, or whether you have an aftermarket airbox. I find the aftermarket options for exhaust are sounding universally ok at low engine revs. Only when you rev them up, or on overrun, do they get a real boom. Or do you mean the mechanical noise of these? These things are clanky at idle, compared to the California series, as of the much lighter flywheel, allowing [or not preventing] the engine from very quickly accelerating and decelerating at [mostly] idle or slightly above. This is chinkling the gears together in the gearbox. Nothing to worry about. With 30,000kms, I've done many 400mile/600km days with this thing, and an 850 mile run. It is a lopy engine with the right characteristic to thrum along all day. The thing is made for sport touring. Ciao, Steve G. Ciao, Steve G.