Steve G.

Hi Al, I like the way you've cleaned up your exhaust headers on your Lemans. Have you just polished your headers, or have you plated them with something? I'd really like shot of your complete system if you get a chance. Ciao, Steve G.

Hi Lads, Well it seems the battery is dieing, and Moto Guzzi will not replace it under warranty, much like tires,brake pads, etc. I want to get a battery with the highest cranking amp power available. Are there any one out there that has changed the stock battery? Ciao, Steve G.

I'm from the old school as well. I've got the mercury sticks from Motion Pro, reasonable price. I was able to set up my 6cyl honda with them quite well. Ciao, Steve G.

Yes I do like the Guzzi upgrade kit [i'm not a big carbon fibre guy], but right now the bank balance must be respected. Ciao, Steve G.

I seem to remember this discussion on a previous thread maybe 1/2 yr ago but could'nt find it. My v11 is starting a habit of the headlight and tachometer not working just after starting up. I am thinking it may be another of those lazy Seimens relays, but after flipping them around and tapping them, I can't get any reaction. Last night I rode home in the dark, without lights for the first mile, except the small running light in the front headlight, then, without any reason, the two components started working. I know that most all bikes these days have a headlight turn off during starter button application to allow the starter and ignition full use of the battery. I'm wondering if there is another component other than the relay that could be the problem. Any thoughts? Ciao, Steve G.

Was talking to my buddy Les from Penticton last Sunday about his '02 Lemans. He quickly noticed the flat power hole just about 4000rpm. His fix he said has eliminated it. A Ferracci air filter kit on the induction side. I was surprised by the exhaust fix. He took the factory Lafranconis, took the stainless steel ends off, and cut the end off with a hack saw. Inside, expecting to find some kind of plumbing which could be removed, instead found nothing but steel wool, industrially pressed into the things. 3 hours with a long hook tool to dig the crap out [which he said was solidified with exhaust carbon making exhaust flow a joke], followed by carefully welding the end back on. He has had to have the mixture richened up, but now he said the bike will loft the front in 2nd gear [he's about 150ib], with no dip in the power. Cost to modify exhaust, $2.00cdn for tig wire. Cost of Ferracci, about $140.00cdn. Ciao, Steve G.

I'm in no position to argue Moto Guzzi's claim for more power/midrange as a result of the crossover headers. Visually, I feel they could have done better. Perhaps to put the crossover lower down. And as for the leaks, this could be an ongoing problem, much like the later years Commandos, where they added just such a crossover to improve power/torque, but which leaked so badly and so often, almost all Commandos are now single headers from both cylinders. Ciao, Steve G.

Check the syncronization of the two injectors. Ciao, Steve G.

I would follow the requested procedures in the owners manual, except to change the oil twice as often as they say. Ciao, Steve G. G.

With 22,000kms in 10 months on my v11, and lots of seat time on my buddies 02' Hire-A-Bussa, I can say that the handlbars are more or less the same reach [bearing in mind a shorter easier reach on the Lemans], but the v11/lemans has less legroom than the Bussa, something my 6'4" frame can feel in the knees after 8hrs. Oh, and the V11/lemans has about 55% of the Bussa's power wack. The v11/Lemans is way more nimble in the tight stuff, but if the road opens up, the Bussa will dissapear. Totally different bikes, made to suit different riders with different mentalities. Ciao, Steve G.

Al, I'd have to say my favourite modification of your is the polished edge on the wheels. Very nice. Too bad one could not find a metal reproduction of the eagle emblem. It would be the best way to have all of it raised. Ciao, Steve G.

Another typical example of a Canadian Moto Guzzi owner. The prices are wacko! I just got a replacement original fuel filter, $100.00. It's just a Weber filter, what's the deal? Ciao, Steve G.

Early on I noted the easy possibility to marr the back of the tank. I bought the clear mylar film used specifically for saving motocross bodywork, [from North Washington Guzzi dealer Skagit Motorsports incidently]. With a heat gun, [or hair dryer] you can mold it to shape to stretch or even shrink it around the compound mold shapes in most modern bike shapes. Friends have seen this and used it to save panel scuffing on their bikes. Ciao, Steve G.

So with these return springs for the gearbox shifter, how tough is it to replace one of these on the side of the road if you're stuck out in the boonies? Ciao, Steve G.

I 've just got a v11, so don't know on the sizing of any fairing fasteners, but as per the side covers, I think they are standard 5mm bolts of 1/2" long, with I think cheese head, or pan head. The bolts that fasten the rear bodywork together with the rear fender are all the same size and pitch of thread, just a bit longer and shorter compared to other ones around the bike. I just went to a metric fastener shop and picked up a bag of s.s. ones, they look much nicer than the black ones. I got all the same size and just hacksaw the things shorter to match each individual size. I think they were about $.30 cdn each. Ciao, Steve G.

Excuse me for noticing this talk of the holy water. I am a serious enthusiast of single malt, and all it's history. Seeing as it is St.Patricks Day, should not Irish Red Breast Whiskey be more appropriate? Laphroig reminds me of a burnt down house. Ciao, Steve G.

Hi Paul, Never have I seen a street tire in such condition! I compliment you on using Mr. Brembo's equipement to such a degree. Ciao, Steve G.

A very good question. I don't know. I do know that all new Triumphs have a special full synthetic break-in oil [made by Mobil]. Maybe Moto Guzzi has the same type of stuff. Porsche also uses full synthetic break-in oil [Mobil] from the factory. Ciao, Steve G.

The new "thinner oils" can be directly related to the EPA guys trying to get motor vehicles to run more efficiently, and thinner oils reduce internal engine drag, so the engine does not need as much power to turn itself. I guess the big question is whether Moto Guzzi has either reduced clearances throughout the engine to compensate for the thinner oil, or is using different metal compounds to compensate. Liquid cooled engines have been able to reduce clearances, notably piston to cylinder clearances, to increase effieciency, and to compensate for the new 0w20 and 5w20 oils. Moto Guzzi lumps are of course air cooled, so must keep bigger clearances or risk seizing the pistons. If I lived in a warmer area, there is no way I'd go with the thinner oils. I would carefully break in the engine using common sense, not lugging, screaming, or running the engine without slightly moving the rpm around. Then, go synthetic, 20w50. Syth. is way better to lubricate at the engines worst time for wear, the cold start. Easier for the oil pump to move it, and it does not thicken up the way mineral oil does. Ciao, Steve G.

The death of a rear tire is almost always due to center wear from straight line riding. I can't recall ever seeing threads showing at extreme angle parts of the tire. Tire life also depends on the compound. My brother goes through a set of race compound Dunlops in 3000kms on his RC30. I get over 16,000kms out of duel purpose Metzeler Sahara rears. I've got just over 12,500kms on 020 Dunlops right now, a bit flat spotted in the centre, but I'm pretty sure I'll get another 4,000kms out of the rear. The front is amazingly ok, just a bit of scuffing and overlap rolling on the edges. Ciao, Steve G.

I'm actually surprised by the cupping happening at 1800 miles. I've got 6500 miles on 020's on my V11 and the front shows little wear, the back maybe a bit on the right side [from entering and exiting the freeway/motorway]. I'm way happier with these things than the original Bridgstone BT57's. This cupping most often can be traced to either the road camber on the roads you ride, or the tire pressure. I don't think it is the tire, or the bike. Ciao, Steve G.

Drilling holes in regular poly plexiglass should be one with one thing in mind. It may crack when, and only when, you have drilled through the majority of the sheet, and just as you are about to break through the opposite surface, the drill will try to 'grab' as it opens up the hole. If you let it grab hard enough, and if it is 3mm thick or thinner sheet, it probably will make hairline cracks, which will spread later from wind buffeting and vibration. To prevent this, spin the drill bit fast, and as it breaks through, pull back the pressure you have on it dramatically, and slowly let it clean the hole out till the bit can fit through. Hold the shield down as the drill will grab it quickly and lift it up. Try to do this on a carpeted table, or a bench with cloth layed down. Drilling from the inside out, or right side in makes no difference. Use this method. If it is lexan, you could fire a gun through it, and it won't crack. In fact I've seen this, and it melts it's way through lexan, instead of smashing it's way. Ciao, Steve G.

Well, engine oil is that great thread that everyone has a good and strong opinion on. Certainly most all would say that synthetic oil should not be used at all during engine breakin, I would guess at 12,000-16,000kms. After that if you decide to use synthetic, sure go ahead. It is overkill on an engine like this that does not share it's engine and gearbox/clutch lubrication. One thing synth. will do is eliminate the worry of switching oil thickness from hot to cold times of usage. It simply does not thin down in desert heat the way petrolium based oils do. Nor will it thicken in cold the way mineral will. Being air cooled, stay with 5w-50, 15w-50, or 20w-50. Checking the oil level on these v11 based bikes has always been a peeve of mine. You check the oil level with the bike upright, spin the dipstick all the way down, then spin it up to check. Problem is, the stick has the stupid raised ridges [probably needed because the flimzy plastic one would fall apart without them] which confuse the actual level because the oil klings around and up the dipstick when spinning it up, easily giving a false reading. Not to fear for me though, I ordered a new metal one from Moto International, in August, it should be here any time. White faced guages? Gotta be the Veglias. Nice looking things really. I guess they've been a disaster warranty wise. Guzzi uses ITI guages now, not near as good looking, bur Aprilia uses them. I guess just be thankfull it's at least working. Ciao, Steve G.

Coventry is were they got the crap bombed out of them during WW2. Meriden is were the last true Triumphs were made, [not counting the Les Williams bikes] and that place was knocked down quite a while ago to made a housing development, 'Meriden Close' I think it is. Ciao, Steve G.

We should all remember that these injected bikes are making more power than the old carb equiped bikes. And as an internal combustion engine is basically a self powered air pump, if it is putting out more power, it is easy to assume that it is using more fuel to make the higher power. I think 30mpg is a bit low for these machines, but that is not much less than alot of high output new bikes these days. It seems like a whole bunch of money to get another 10mpg. Have you checked the cost of new Mikuni flat slides? WOW! My bike really needed some mileage before it loosened up, needing less of it's own power to spin. I'm 38-45mpg/us gallon now, and happy with it. You wouldn't want the fuel bill of my cbx, maybe 25 to the us gallon, and it is dialed in very well. Ciao, Steve G.