Frank

Just some thoughts: I believe the reason No Mar uses the mounting bar they use is that nothing touches the face of the wheel. The Mojolever rides along the face of the wheel but as far as I can tell, doesn't mar anything and is much easier. When I first got the NoMar, I couldn't mount my tires with it. I had to use levers. So, I decided I needed practice so I bought two motorcycle wheels (17 inch sports wheel) and a early 2000's 16 inch Harley wheel. After practicing on the old tires that came with the wheels, I then bought new tires for each of these wheels as well as a tire warmer. I discovered that for me, the yellow thing doesn't work but a bead holder (https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Changer-Clamp-Machine-Wheels/dp/B0CF1QNN81/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?hvadid=580709605591&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009899&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14746983431188596350&hvtargid=kwd-36150832978&hydadcr=7484_13212580&keywords=tire%2Bbead%2Bholder&qid=1698799128&sr=8-11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1 works well. I own 5 of them and use them when I use the No Mar mounting bar - one in place of the yellow thing and then, as I get some of the tire on, I stop and use another of the bead clamps. I generally have to use 3, about 90 degrees apart. I have no luck pushing the tire down with my hand like the videos show. I also use these clamps when using the Mojo Lever. With lots a practice, I've gotten pretty good with the No Mar. I've looked at just about every You Tube video on the Rabaconda. Time wise, the Rabaconda is faster to mount the tire to the machine. Mounting the tire to the No Mar generally required bead holders for me. However, once mounted, the No Mar is very makes easy work of tire removal. In my opinion, the Rabaconda needs a better "gear ratio" with its lever. Frank

Any thoughts about this: http://dpguzzi.com/relay.htm Frank

I've got to relay my experiences. I have been changing tires for 50 years using a bead breaker mounted to my bench and concrete floor, tire irons, 4x4's on a concrete floor or car tire wheel with protector on my bench, and rim protectors. I've always been successful, even with a 240 section Harley tire but, with the exception of the skinny '75 Triump tires, it was always a struggle. And, anytime I thought I had learned a trick, either it didn't work next time or it was so long between tire changes that I forgot it. Then I bought a No Mar Classic HD along with their tire irons, Xtra hand clamp, Yellow thing and their lube and bolted it to the floor. The first tire (rear) for my 2004V11 Le mans tore while mounting. I was unable to get it on without finally using tire irons and rim protectors. So, before I mounted my same size Suzuki TL1000S rear tire, I bought a used wheel and tire assembly off Ebay for maybe $60-$80 and practiced on it. That's is when I learned some of the tricks. Removing a tire is relatively easy but mounting is much more tricky. I'll practice on my Ebay wheel/tire first when it time to change my next tire ( I have 7 bikes). If I don't practice, I'm sure I'll look like those guys on YouTube with their tires spinning on the mountings. Finally, the further you get from mounting a race tire towards a touring tire, the less chance of success you'll have mounting the tire with the mounting bar. For my 2014 Valkyrie rear tire, I used the demount bar just fine but used only tire irons to mount it. The a few of these tire irons: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/2170075/j-p-cycles-tire-iron-15-curved used with a rim protector or plastic from 2 liter cola bottle will help get the last part of tire over the rim when using tire levers. No Mar's levers are wide. Frank Good luck.

I just emailed Chuck and ordered one. Frank

The fairing is not a solid independent piece. The red painted portion of the fairing on your bike is held on by the bolts from the mirrors and bolts for the turnsignals. I believe there are wiring connectors for the turn signals to unplug. Then you remove the "skin" - the painted portion of the fairing as one piece. All the black panels you see while seated on the bike stay fixed to the bike. When I first did this to my Rossa Corsa, I was shocked to see how easy it was and how it was constructed. Its really not a fairing in the Windjammer style of construction. Frank

Hi: I'm interested in the starter cover. Thanks. Frank

I reviewed your video before I installed my Roper plate and couldn't tell if you used two flange gaskets (01 00 36 50), - one on both sides of the Roper plate. Also, when I installed my plate last week, I noticed that the screws that held the flange to the crankcase had a coating on them that I could peel off. When I looked further, 8 of these cap screws thread into crankcase holes that are not blind but open to the outside. In other words, if these Allen screws are not sealed, you could have oil running up the threads to the outside of the engine on both sides. I used Permatex's Indian heal shellac on mine. Frank

Pressureangle, I've just sent an order with PayPal. Are there instructions included? What gaskets -seals are needed? Thanks. Frank

A few years ago, my Suzuki TL1000 S developed the same problem. I hadn't done anything to the brake system beforehand - it just appeared one day. Brakes were tight and normal at a stop but almost immediately the lever went to the grip when moving. I could pump the brake lever up some but it immediately goes soft again. At a stop, everything is okay. I bled the system numerous times but the problem persisted. I've been tinkering with motorcycles for over 40 years and I was really stumped. The bike was basically unrideable because of this problem. One day when testing it in my neighborhood, I watched the brake discs as I was moving slow and noticed they were warped. I replaced them and the problem went away. Maybe this will help. Frank

Hi Tim: I've sent a Paypal payment for 2 springs. Frank Long

I'm interested in 2. Won't there be a formal method for payment and receiving address? Frank

I wouldn't still have my V11 Rossa Corsa if I didn't have these mounted: http://motratech.com/Motratech/Welcome.html I also have the setup from RPM cycles that moved the clip ons up and back. Frank

Thanks to all. I was finally able to download it on my main computer (Windows 10) by turning off McAfee - however, it appears you can't turn off McAfee through their settings application. I had to go to Windows System Configuration to turn it off. I was then able to download it. However, it wouldn't execute - ? because parts of McAfee are still active? Anyway, I copied it to my garage computer where I do my motorcycle work - an old laptop with Windows XP -and it works!! Frank

Hi Meinolf I have downloaded that .zip probably 15 times and it never opens and when I extract it, there is only a statement stating that the file is empty. I had no problems with any of the other files. Is anybody willing to email me their executable for the IAW15x reader? Thanks. Frank

Hi all: I've been following this thread recently and have gotten GuzziDiag programs downloaded to use on my LeMans Rossa Corsa with an IAW 15M.C7 MY 2002 ecu. I've gotten the cables and have successfully communicated with the ecu. However, the IAW15x reader that I downloaded is an empty file. Is this because of my computer or has the file been removed from the website.? I would like to have the reader if available. The IAW15x EEPROM reader works but it copies the files in a .eep extension and TunePro needs a .bin file. So, I'm unable to download my map to compare it. \ As an FYI: I recently bought a IAW15M .C5 V11 Lemans Sport ecu from Ebay and it works on my Rossa Corsa. I appreciate any help. Frank

I'm so impressed with mine that I'm willing to buy a set of spares incase I get a used V11 in the future. They work perfectly. Frank Long

Guys, This is what I use. I got a long, 16 inch or so grease gun extension hose and bought the following from McMaster-Carr: 1090K47 . I did have to drill out the hole on this item to fit the grease nipple but it works great. http://www.mcmaster.com/

If you want to know how to change tires yourself and have a workbench and the tools to remove the wheels from the bike, the following links will help. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html will help you make the best fixture for holding tires at virtually no cost. This is what I use and it is hands down better that laying the wheel/tire over two 4x4's and using your knees and tire irons to r/r and tire. I don't use this method for wire wheels though - I still place them on the 4x4's and now have knee protectors to help with the job. http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/index.html This site has the long tire irons you'll need - short ones like I used for years just don't work nearly as well as these long ones. Three irons are needed. You also might want a bead breaker. I've seen car jacks placed on the tire and then used to lift the car and the bead still won't break. You'll need something to break them and a bead breaker of some sort is a necessity. Finally, this site's balancing stand is the best I've seen. The bearings that support the stock wheel and axle are so friction-free that a well spun tire will continue to rotate for 3 minutes or more. This tool is really amazing and clearly works well. http://www.tireslick.com/ When I first changed tires 30 years ago, I didn't know one needed a lubricant. The second time I changed a tire -using dishwashing liquid as a lubricant, the tires almost jumped on the rims. That was in '75 when my bike had wire wheels and tubes. Tubeless tires on cast wheels are on tight and need a lubricant. This is the best I've found. It dries away to nothing - really, any that gets on your hand will eventually evaporate to with no residual. It's very slippery. I apply it with a cheap paint brush. Although I didn't mention it in my first sentence, an air compressor is very handy since you'll need to inflate the tire to seat the bead. This lubricant dries fairly quickly so get them seated quickly. http://www.kowatools.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merc...ry_Code=REMOVAL To better protect cast wheels, I use 6 or more of these around my rims and the risk of scratching the rims approaches zero. I don't use these on chromed steel steel wheels. The tire is always removed and replaced from one side of the wheel, so I always remove the brake disk on that side. I have 6 road bikes and have changed the tires on all of them in the last two years. The above items work well. If I do get scratches, they are small and the drug store generally has a color of fingernail polish for touchup. Frank

Fernando, I have the same winter wear as you listed and my battery died as well in a couple of hundred miles. It was easy to push start however. I plan next season to pull the headlight fuse since I would be riding only during the day. This apparently doesn't kill the pilot light located in the headlight so you still have a light on while riding. (I ride my '75 Triumph Trident like this 100% of its daytime riding and have never been stopped in over twenty years). fsrank

Hi Rich, I had a revelation about 2 weeks ago. I was looking through Eastwood's catalogue and saw information on powdercoating. There is a powder called anodized red and an example of an old Triumph primary cover powder coated wih a transluscent coating. I believe the valve covers and hamcans are powdercoated over aluminum. Frank

"I Think Mr Irving has forgotton to consider that the speed of the piston in a recip engine doesn't change in a sinusoidal fashion. The acceleration rate is higher through TDC than through BDC because the crankshaft angle at the center of the stroke isn't at 90 degrees. And the shorter the rod, the greater the disparity." No, he hasn't forgotten. In Phil Irving's book, this fact is discussed earlier in the chapter: "The force required to start and stop a piston is at a maximum just at tdc and if the conrod were infinitely long, a force of the same value, but opposite in direction, would be required to perform the same function at bdc. The piston would then possess what is know as simple harmonic motion but this condition never exists because, for reasons some of which are obvious and some are not, the conrod has to be a lot shorter than infinity and is usually somewhere around four times the crank radius or twice the length of the stroke. Because of the angularity of the rod to the centre-line at or near mid stroke, the points at which the piston attains its maximum upward or downward velocity, assuming, as is usual, that the cylinder is central and not offset, occurs not at the 90 degree crank position but at about 76 degrees before or after tdc, the precise position depending, or course, on the conrod/crank ratio. This means that the piston has 152 degrees of crank rotation to get from maximum speed down to zero and back to maximum during the upper half of the stroke, and 208 degrees to go through the same sequence during the lower half; the upward inertia force must, therefore, be greater than the downward force" With simple harmonic motion, the inertia forces can be represented graphically on a crankangle or time base, as a symmetrical sine wave of which the maximum values are given by tahe expression 0.0000142WN(squared)S where W = weight in lb, N= rpm and S=stroke in inches. The effect of the necessarily short rod is to modulate this symmetrical curve by superimposing on it an infinite number of other harmonics, forming a Fourier series of increasing frequency and decreasing amplitude. Of these, only the secondary harmonic of twice the frequency and one-quarter the magniturde of the primary need concern us here, as the higher harmonics assume any importance only in engines with six or more cylinders." ...................................................................................................... "Arithmetically, the effect of a rod with a comparatively short length is to increase the primary force at tdc and reduce it at bdc by the factor R/L where R is the crank radius and L is the rod length (both of course meassured in the same units); this factor can for our purposed be taken as 1/4, the slight differences encountered in practice having only a minor effect" This book although dated is part, is a great reference. Frank

Hi, Ninety degree V twins do NOT intrinsically have perfect balance BUT they can be 100% balanced by counterweights. To quote P. E Irvings's Motorcycle Engineering: "In 90 degree form, perfect primary balancing is obtained by counterweighting 100% of one piston plus the small-end. The unwanted centrifugal force from this weight at 90 degrees position from No. 1 cylinder exactly cancels out the primary inertia force emanating from No. 2 cylinder and this applies to all positions of both pistons. The secondary forces must, however, be taken into account, because they can be large enough to be serious in a big engine." He goes on to state that these secondary forces (less force but higher frequency) act in the horizontal plane, which on our bike, means they act across the frame, side to side, not front to back. The link for the automated engine diagrams is: http://www.mecc.unipd.it/~cos/DINAMOTO/twi...otors/twin.html Frank

Hi, I was talking to TechnoResearch people today. They have another software tool that allows you to directly address the Marelli ECU on MotoGuzzi's. I just bought one for the Harley I'm going to buy and the man told me that there is a Direct Link software package that can be used to modify the Guzzi as well. http://www.technoresearch.com/ Frank

I'm considering buying a set of Teckno bags for my '03 LeMans, however, all my riding is done with a passenger. I've read posts regarding the tight fit for the passenger's feet because the bag impinges on the foot rest. Has anyone found a way to give the passenger sufficient foot and leg room with these bags? Thanks. Frank