edge

I like the textile too. I have a couple jackets; an air mesh with inserts for summer and a waterproof with liner and inserts when cold/wet. Also have textile pants with inserts when doing the long ones. I've ben down once with the textile and know the armour inserts prevented a broken arm after nerfing off an SUV. It was bruised alright but elbo and sholder protection was spot on.

These are the most common in the "GAU" familiy. Rates of fire can vary depending on where you look, what model and what it is applied to. GAU-2 7.62mm 2,000-4,000 RPM GAU-8 "Avenger" 30mm 2,100-4,200 RPM GAU-12 "Equalizer" 25mm 3,600-4,200 RMP GAU-13 30mm, 1,030 RPM GAU-17 7.62 2,00-4,000 RPM One thing in common, they all will give you religion one way or another when fired!

I'll be doing the polished thing too. Mine are getting pretty fugly between the padock stand abuse and Luigi's poor pre-paint prep. The paint seems to be lifting in chuncks... Just a matter of time before I say enough

I ran mine direct from the battery with the positive pulling through the fuse block. There is an empty spot in your fuse block that can be tapped into by adding a fuse. I did not make my installation "switchable" with the ignition and have worried about that but have not failed to turn it off after a ride so no battery issues. There is a couple of threads here that have different recomedations as to power source. "heated grip" search function ought to turn up something. A good oportunity to change grips to gels too (if you have not already).

The large 4-5" sump drain on the bottom of the sump. Allows for oil filter access and rapid oil removal

There is always a chance but if this is the first time off, you should have no issues, as long as you are gentle witht he let-down. Going back on with the old will be fine with a very light coat of oil to the clean faces. About a dozen allen head bolts and an oil line on the rear of the pan are all that need to be removed to drop the pan. Careful not to over torque the allen bolts on assembly due to the alloy case. Here are a few threads: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...028entry61028 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=5996&st=15 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...topic=264&st=15

I already had a Garmin GPS (76S) and adapted it to the bike with a Sport clip-on riser, a bar segment and a Garmin bar mount. Since I am using TBR bars, I had some real estate up top to mount things. I have a couple thousand miles on the rig and it works for me. Picture is deceiving but speedo and tach are visable and keypad on GPS works fine with gloves. Ignition key takes a little effort but is fully acessable with mount in place. The mount allows to the GPS to be removed in a couple of seconds too just leaving the bar.

I would drop the pan being your first oil change on the bike. With the pan off filter removal will be no issue. The other benifit of droping the pan is to allow you to make sure Luigi has not left anything behind in your new bike and to clean out any sediment from the pan bottom. You should be able to reuse the original gasket if you are carfull when lowering the pan to ensure nothing gets hung or fouled in the process. You can do a search here re. pan removal, there is much collective wisdom, especially on the new bikes. Some do it every change too. I would caution you on the old screw driver through the filter while the pan is on due to the potential of damaging threads on the manhole cover or a scavenge line on the inside. With the pan off you get to see the internals too. hope it helps,

How bad has your front Batlax started to cup? That will give you the wallowing in the turns you describe

Isn't the sticker you need on the rear swing arm under the OEM hugger??

Yes they do, there two ways to do it that are covered in the thread below. You keep your mounts stock and use shim stock or you can drill out the MG brackets and use HD stock which I do not recomend due to diameter of the HD pin, besides it's more expensive. Only drawback is the are a little wider at the mount where you place your feet. AL R did a nice extension on the shifter to compensate. This is the thread that will tell you what you need to know about the foot pegs. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ell++foot++pegs Takes a litlle work but IMHO, it's worth the effort every day I get on the bike, especially when your doing the miles

No rubber, just a drop.

Concur, stay north: Wife and I did a couple days in Como and stayed at a pension right on the lake. Another highlight of the trip included a wonderful wine full night on the town being driven around on the back of a couple mopeds by Itailian youth that adopted us. Go and and enjoy

I am not sure the straddled bike with a level on the tank is a method the the will tell you much I think you are an the right track by eliminatin gthe gross and obvious with tire pressure and handle bar allignment. I think I would stay focused on the front end to make sure that it is truly "alined" (i.e. fork set in tripple trees, etc.) Make sure the bars are not bent from shipping or retention straps. Other than that there are not many adjustments. There is an extensive thread here for rear alignment measurements and procedures. I also think your MI needs to get you satisfied too being new (assumption) and under warranty. Good luck and welcme

Guzzi did well in the January 06 Cycle World too. Had a good write up on the Grisso as being the "best yet" and a couple of full page adds for Gisso and 1100 Breva. Looks like Piagio $$ has finally turned the corner for MG

Thanks guys, Interesting solution and loooks effective too. Update; I did receive another batch of plastic and have been making my way through anther run for for those that have already requested pieces. I got a little behind this week feeling a bit under the weather (thanks to my grand daughter ). I should have everything done by next weekend. I can't get to them any sooner due to a business travel next week but they will ship out soon.

This is a pretty good review on Conti Road Attacks. http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/acces...road-attack.php I will be replacing my Bridgestones this winter for them. Several board members running them too with favorable reviews. There are a couple threads here someplace on tires, and yes, there are many opinions and subjective assesments. You plobably can't go too far wrong with any quality sport tire and if your not happy, you get to move on after several thousand miles good luck

Sounds like my neck of the woods

def; He, who frags the Scura clutch, peals the 02 engine paint, fades the pork chop, sucks the tank, and cups the tire. Cracks the down pipe, assembles with out lube, shims bearings short and coughs and sputters at will. Also known to consume massive quantities of fuel while leaving half of it in the right side of the tank. A master of unsolvable electronic nightmares that have no cause or solution. Not to mention the creator of the "flat spot" phenomena at mid range. If given the opportunity, will loose the small part that you just had in hand. He will miss-guide the bolt and bugger up the aluminum threads during reassembly. One who allows synthetic oil to seep from every seal. Not to mention mis-guide the grease gun as it tries to service the forward grease nipple (he calls it a zerk). There are a thousand other contributions that he has made but he is not to be honored for the chalenges he provides

Last time I swapped a brembo lever I seem to remember a little piece at the switch area that was prone to getting loose and lost?? can't rembmeber what it was but I do remember disasemble with care or you'll be sharing floor space with trying to find the part.

Doc, Is that photo untouched?? What I mean is have you wiped it down or cleaned that area from oil? You mentioned a "HUGH" leak and I am not impressed quantity or flow of what you are pointing out In aviation we would call that a seep or a weep, and not to be confused with a grounding "leak"... Anyway, as you tighten those allen heads (not too much as to strip the aluminum case), I would look very closely at the frame attaching point(s) (both sides) and make sure the engine case was not cracked in that vicinity during the drop and the resultant crack being the true source of your seep vs. the apppent case seal weep. I don't see any evidence of a cracked case based on your picture but I would take a very close look at the area between the leaking bolt you pointed out and the engine mount bolt just to be very sure. To make you feel beter, I too have a couple oil wet spots on my crinkle paint in the vicinity of the case joining points. A little synthetic oil will bleed into the black paint and make it look a lot worse than it is. The advice of others to clean and seal bolts ought to fix things and then it's just a matter of "fly it and watch it"

Instead of the out riggers, here's one for the front! http://www.pcracingusa.com/motoski.php Ride safe

Did you really mean to say that?? Maybe they could add training wheels for the Sweeds like on this beemer it would be purrfect. http://www.bmw-motorrad.co.za/bikes/news/default.asp?Id=391 Jaap, feel free to jump in any time now that we escalated to international finger poking

Please don't take offense at the obvious but did you really check the pet cock?? The manual fuel shut off (at the pet cock) are extreamly stiff (on 02s anyway) and difficult to get at, make sure it is open position. Im thingking during the bikes recovery process maybe it was closed for transport. There is also a very distinct difference in fuel pump sound with the valve closed.

You’re too kind my friend, As far as making a living... I don't think so... after the time and money invested in this project... let's just say we are doing it for the group and to keep the Mrs. from stopping my folly while I toil in the garage enjoying a good beverage and staying off the streets at night! Now, if I were making these things for Harleys, that would be a whole different story. I suppose one could make a handsome living out of them but I would have to change a few things; 1. They would need to be made out of chrome plated scrap steel, 2. They would retail for a hundred bucks each before installation (HD=Hundred Dollar part)!, and 3. They would be manufactured in China because I couldn't keep up with orders for 100s of thousands of the damn things when they became the next thing at the lemming lot , and oh yeah, number 4. I would have to loose my self respect in process knowing that in 6 months the things would metal fatigue crack at all bolt holes, chrome would lift due to poor plating and rust pit on the visible sides The problem with my the HD business plan is... Some how they managed to get a some what proper fender on most of their rides negating the need for plastic bits Not bashing HD, too badly anyway, just jesting at the low volume MG niche by comparison and the difference of purpose. Ride safe,