edge

I'm sure Staintune or Neptune will build to order..

Saw these cans a while back on Skykingproducts.com. Called Skyking and they don't sell them, just wicked expensive hand formed bits and pieces. They thought they were a GB product. I got intouch with a GB rep in TX and he couldn't tell me anthing other than they would cost 1,000US.. with no delivery date... I gave up on them, declared them unatainable and went on to a more traditional set up..

Glad they worked out for you... I too am still very happy with the results I did the original swap out of fundamental protest to MG with over priced parts It was shameful to have to go to a Harley stealer to buy replacements at 1/3 the MG cost that work better no less... Are you listening MG??

I too am very happy with the Chon-Chong Aprilia moped Top Box setup. The box cost me 65.00US complete from the dealer and it fit perfectly on the OEM Aluminum Guzzi rack (~235.00us) . I already had the rack and it was a choice between the OEM tail bag and the scooter top box and I'm very glad I went with the box (bag too small).. The box will hold a full helmet easily (or a small laptop?).. It took a while for the look of the box to grow on me.. but after using it for my work stuff.. I like the option of having on or off as needed and the base plate is not offensive either. I think the looks even flow ok on the lemans.. not sure about the Sport

Guido, Reference the stearing damper rod-end attaching point, mine sheared of as you described during a fall I had (collision induced). The Rod-end sheared off at the jam nut with no apparent damage to the bitburo damper. I also had damage to one of the stearing stops on the lower triple tree and to the assosiated clip on. I concluded the clipon contact with the asphalt rotated the stearing head at a rate that exceed the strenth of the damper rod-end or and more probable, the bending/knotching of the stearing stop due to excessive travel exceed the travel of the damper (as adjusted) resulting in the same rod-end failure. Either way, same result. I also looked at the break closly for fatigue but due to size of the bolt and the clean shear, I discounted fatigue and associated it with impact. During my bike recovery, I also learned an unattached damper flopping around in your fairing area (lemans) or near the fork tube/trippletree will foul your stearing travel due to interference. I replaced my lower tripple tree (big PIA) due to stop damage (~350.00US) and replaced the rod-end bearing with a McMaster SS replacemend (18.00US) and of course the clipons too with aftermarket bars... During the damper replacment, I spent a lot of time ensuring I had full travel on the tripletree stops vs. damper rod end binding. B/L You'll probably never conclusively know what set up the stearing head oscilation in your case but would say it probably started with the road iregularities and low dampining (either mechanical or human). As you found out when it happens, it's quick, violent and friggin scarry ! Back in the day, I had a slap experience on a cafe'd out 1977 Yamahamer XD-500 with low dunstall bars, no damper (damper what??), at 70mph plus. I am not sure why I am still here today but like you, I now have a life long respect for it. I always ride with light (non-binding) stearing dampning (free insurance) and a good two handed grip. be safe,

www.hoodjeans.co.uk

I too was looking at Staintunes when I came across the Neptune line. They too are from down under, and I liked the varity of finishes over the staintume. Fit and finish was spot on. Straight through with removable inserts too. Very happy with mine. Nice sound, pinging is gone and mid-range has improved w/o a PC. Aces for me.. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...296entry33296

If that doesn't work, go with the Buell Firebolt mirrors (for Lemans mirrors). Cheeper and wider http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...648entry31648

I had mine done by Orrin also. I had some pretty nasty road rash that buffed out completly. Orrin is the man I had the head gaurds done too. 2 covers, 2 gaurds 1 week turn around less than 100 with shipping/insurance. It worked out about the same as it would have cost for 1 new cover. Unfortunatly I don't live close to a truck stop where the Tx sez they can do this stuff very cheaply but I'm happy and they look great and not bad to maintain (so far)

Glad it worked out from you I now have 1,000 miles on mine with no issues. It's nice being able to see w/o having to tuck an elbow or shift to see. The vibrations aren't bad and I don't think they hurt the looks of the lemans either

Al, I'll take a picture of the grind tonight but I did end up "notching" the cast web a little, trying to keep both sides equal in thickness. I didn't see loosing much support, theres still way more metal than the OEM pegs. I think I'll try for a set of the 7/16th bushings my self on my nect McMC order. Your probably right about the 1/16 inch difference in the bushings allowing for the tight fit on mine. One side was snug and took an awl to get the right alighment to get the pivot pin in there. Having used the 3/8 OD I didn't run into the same problem you did. What happend with the RH peg during experimentation? Too much metal removal? just curious. I'll can put together a better "how to" for posting in FAQ's that combines your lessons learned.

Does Cycle Cat offer something that will mate to a 54mm shock?? We have talked with these folks several times over the past year or so and they can't seem to get the interest or support for MG with 54's One of us even visited the shop to try to get something going (can't remember who but the thread is here). I quit waiting for an application and ended up settling for a Two Brothers Racing set up knowing CC is a beter arangement with "S" riser.. As recently as 2 months ago I asked for something off the shelf that would mate and I'd figure the rest out but no luck re tail piece, I might have one with very minor damage if MGNA can get one to me. They sent one NIB with more damage than the one I had. It went back and I am now in a back ordered status... I think that neans after the summer holiday season in Italy maybe one will get made along with all the Ti cans folks are waiting for.. I'll keep you posted. As you know the new piece runs about 8 bills new

Agreed... I was thinking the same thing WRT the pegs, add a spacer and a piece of rubber fuel line to cover all id needed. I'm thinking less than 1/2" extenstion. Grahams post has good ideas too. I looked a little closer at clearances, linkages, elliptical break stop, etc... I think a combination of both ideas will get everything were it needs to be w/o much hassle or $$. Unfortunately I can’t play in the garage until next week but it's on the to-do list. I'm going for the lever drop first and see how that works before I extend anything. As far as foot positioning observations, it might be more of a vertical positioning issue WRT the pegs vs. levers than the lateral offset. Because the two have changed, and a "step" has been introduced with the bracket, I'm just more aware of it and required foot movement to break and downshift... Around town and on the highways not an issue ... Spirited riding in the twisties, too much going on to have to move feet to manipulate stock position levers

Thanks for the info, I have the rack and was thinking about getting a top box instead of the bag to hold a helmet. If the MG does the helmet, maybe the bag is a better deal.

Al, re. 3/8 bushing.. I think the fit is tight enough. I don't notice any loosness or incresesed vibration from the pegs as a result of using the 1/4 x 3/8. I think the key is don't grind too much off the sides of the peg to keep it tight within the bracket. I didn't try 7/16's, haveing a 3/8ths in hand was close enough for me. I'm sure you can refine what I have done and take this mod to the next level by reducing the clearance and or nesting Next week I'm going to work on the shifter/break levers. Now that I have over a 100 miles on these pegs. I'm sold on the position but still doing a lot of foot movement and repositioning to down shift and break.. I really haven't had the time to scratch my head on this one (daughter got married this weekend )yet but I'll do the obvious first and adjust position through linkage.

Actually quite like stock with the inserts. Nice rumble at idle and throughout RPM. Will pull inserts this afternoon so will update later.. Bring your gear, I'm going to be tied up most of this weekend

one more from the dirt... You owe me..

For Tx... looking down under

Got to test drive today and give assesment of the Buell Lighting pegs.. Overal positive.. Pegs are great, much better "sport" touring position. Will give it another ride with shifter and break adjusted a little lower. Up shifting, didn't miss a lick on back woods roads, down shifting, had to adjust foot up to the the bracket a few times due to the offset. Still like it much better than stock for road comfort. Rear break lever needs to adjusted down. Definatly had to reposition foot to break. Not that big of a deal but definatly aware of the position change.. Again. no regrets with the change in ergo's just need to see what I can do with shifter & break lever this weekend to make it more better .

another

Finally got the bike out today and am able to give feedback on the Buell Mirrors.. Good to go A little differnet profile then the OEMs but an 1"+ wider wich equals No Elbows in the picture. I was concerend the additioanl width would give additioanl vibration but the seem clearer than my originals.. Mayby because I can see more than my jacket Anyway, a couple of pic's

Still has the right-side off set..

Another

Another

Well I got my exhaust in today from Neptune Muffler NZ. I'm very pleased of the quality, fit & finish. Exhaust came complete and was on in 30 minutes. An exact replacement for OEM cans at the same money. I put 50 miles on them today and am very happy with the sound, and butt dyno performance. My pre-detonation pinging seems to be gone and it seems to pull a little harder in the middle. I did today’s ride with the inserts in and will try to get another ride in this weekend with them removed so I can feel & hear the difference. They bolted to the original mounting plates and also allow mounting of the original passenger kick plates. I ordered mine in brushed stainless because I thought the signature Neptune "Black Chrome" would be too much with the Champagne and thought the polished SS (ala Staintune) might be too much bling too. Andrew at adventures workshop has been super to deal with and almost as excited as I was to get this system in. This system, delivered was $935.00 US... I know, it's a little pricy but as I said it's the same money as the OEMs, it has the inserts and retains the OEM mounting location and hardware... and they are gorgeous and light and with the inserts are two cans in one. It took a little over two weeks to get but considering they are made to order, were shipped from NZ, double checked in NJ (@ adventures work shop) and my door with UPS 3 day, I cannot complain. Bear with me on the picture posting...