Craig

Not sure what the residue is but clean that thing with acetone or some such strong solvent, deburr every cut, then clean it again. You do not want foreign matter in the crankcase. I think we just identified how they undercut Pete. I bought a roper plate second hand from an owner who never installed it. The cuts were clean enough that I considered not deburring every edge, but still did.

I kept thinking R65LS when I looked at it...

I think I found the source of the parts: MotoForzaFairings

Laverda SFC for the win! Thank you.

I found a few pictures of this bike on several sites, but no details. Does anyone know what fairing that is?

Can you determine the diameter and thicknexx of the old lens? I have an old ITI tach laying around, but I don't know if the lens is similar enough.

Totally love mine. No more flashing red light on hard accelerations.

I guess it depends on the seals. I tend to leave seals alone unless they really need it. I just feel I am more likely to screw up putting in a new seal and cause a leak where there was none before. That said, I haven't researched MG seals so if they are prone to failure, they should definitely go as well. In case the OP doesn't know which ones we are talking about there are three: the rear seal on the crank case and the input and output seals on the transmission. Is it worth breaking open the hydraulics to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder?

You didn't say the miles on the bike. There are a couple of ways to approach it: Cheapest is pull it apart, inspect everything and replace what's needed. This will also keep the bike off the road the longest. I prefer to replace the whole kit and order pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and friction plate and have them on hand before I start the job. If I ever do this on my V11 I will put in a lighter flywheel as well

It was worth asking. I think they won't fit on the marzochhi's I have any way.

Want to sell your clip on?

Took mine off early last year just to see. Put it back on last week, it was quite a difference and better. Welshguzzi, how do they know its there?

Here is how I find grounds like this: 1. Make up a test light. Use any 12V bulb holder with some wires to alligator clips. 2. Disconnect the + side of the battery 3. Connect one side of the test light made in step one to the positive battery terminal 4. Connect the other side of the test light to the positive battery cable. This puts the lightbulb directly in series with the battery, any current being drained will light the bulb. 5. Pull fuses one by one until the bulb goes out, that fuse controls the circuit with the ground. Do normal ground isolation on that circuit.

Have you priced a new or used fairing?

To give additional strength over what was originally there. The plastic welding techniques only bandaid the problem.

Best bet is to repair it from the rear. Sand down about 2mm of fiberglass for 2-3cm each side of the crack. Then build it back up with heavy boat cloth and epoxy resin. For a perfect repair do the same thin on the painted side, only go down a mm and use 2-3oz cloth. then repaint.

Thanks. I will check that clearance.

What is the 'pork chop'?

Let's not be hasty. I am certain I could use some help with something...

So, I rode in to work today without incident. I will chalk this up to the MG gremlins. The Trans was not low on fluid, I was checking it incorrectly.

So MG assumes you will have a stand to check the level? Strange, but I can see it. Castrol Synthetic Gear 75W90 this time.

R&Rd the trans fluid, didn't see anything concerning. I did realize why I thought the fluid was low. When I checked last, I had the bike up on a service stand so it was vertical. When I refilled it today (on the stand) I put it to the middle of the site glass then took it off the stand. I was surprised to find that the fluid went low out-of-sight with the bike on the side stand. Where is the right level? I will default with centered in the site glass while on the side stand.

Linkage was spotless. I rebuilt it a few months ago when I replaced the shift lever with a billet unit from Harper's (tripped coming out of my garage and dropped the bike resulting in a broken shift lever , occupational hazard of being really short ) I think a drain and fill is prudent. I refilled it just to get an idea of how low it really was since it was below the site glass. Do you know if the 2004s suffer the spring failure commonly?

On my way to work this morning on my 2004 Ballabio I downshifted into first and the shifter stuck full down. I mean STUCK. I could not budge the shifter. I assumed it was the broken return spring issue i have read about. I decided to not attempt a roadside repair and waited for a tow truck. While sitting on the side of the road staring at the bike I noticed that the transmission fluid appeared low, the site glass was clear, which was strange because I know that I specifically checked it a month ago and there has been nothing on the ground. Anyway, by the time the tow truck arrived back at my house with the bike on the back, the transmission shifted normally. Clearly there was not a broken spring involved, last I checked springs don't spontaneously heal! In reading the spring failure description more closely it looks like when they go the shifter will move, but the transmission won't shift. I added about about a cup of fluid to get it back in the center of the site glass, so the trans was low, but not dry, and I felt and heard nothing strange from the transmission that would make me think I was running the gears dry. So, here are my questions: 1. Are the 2004 models subject to the spring flaw? If so, I will preemptively change out the springs. 2. Could running the gearbox 25% low explain this problem? 3. Think I did any permanent damage to the box? I coasted to a stop and shut down within 20 seconds of the problem occurring.

I missed that at first, but I would still pull the connector and make sure it hasn't trapped any water.