Craig

I can't even find that. But I guess I can trust my calibrated wrist given the solid bearings. At least I have a good spec for the Carillo rod bearings, those would really worry me.

Anyone have the torque specs for the front and rear main bearings? The shop manual just says "put it back together in reverse order" and I can't find a torque table anywhere. Guzziology is mum also. I am putting the bottom end together today. Still waiting for heads.

What are these magic gaskets made of? They can't be that hard to fabricate...

I thought you were talking about this one:

I have the HF lift and find it less than useful for the MG. The only thing I use it for is doing the front tire, and it is pretty dodgy even for that. The factory lift is much more useful.

Swain Tech coatings TBC on the piston domes and PC-9 on the piston skirts. This might be snake oil, but the coatings on the skirts were scored from my motor escapade and this was a more economical way of repairing than new pistons.

I have a set of metric taps and I just run them through by hand. I am using a standard engine stand, way overkill for this. As far as how the project is going I am waiting for parts. I don't expect the rods for another few weeks, and the heads are still with Mike rich. I don't expect them back for a few weeks either. I am not expecting to be back on the road this year. Building back up will be pretty quick once all the parts are back and balanced, but tuning this thing will be interesting.

What is this "35mm film" you speak of?

The bearing I listed fits perfectly. It will be some time before I can road test it.

Don't forget the hose clamp around the filter.

I finally installed the roller bearing I found at McMaster Carr. It is a 8mmx16mmx5mm high precision ball bearing. They go for $6.13 each. They are dimensionally identical to the solid roller installed by Guzzi. I doubt they will make a noticable difference in shift feel, but they can't hurt either.

I just went and looked at the detent roller again after running it through the gears several times. It is getting punched by the ridges on the detent ring. It is too soft for the application. I wonder if I can find a hardened steel bearing that would fit.

I went through this yesterday. Scud, I noticed the same thing you did about the shifter taking more force one direction than the other. It is because the shifter pawl spring is aiding in one direction and fighting in the other. I haven't added the pads to the shifter yet, I haven't decide whether I really like that yet. I gave the shifter pawl a very good polish on all wear surfaces. I noticed two other places that could benefit from some smoothing. The ridge that supports the shifter return spring was very rough. You could feel it when you moved the shifter. I hit that with a rotary tool with a scotch-brite mandrel. I feels like butter now. The other place that was really ugly was the detent roller. Mine looked like it had been punched out of plate aluminum. It had very deep scoring running across the faces and it did not rotate freely. I polished up the face and bearing face, so it rolls much smoother now.

I spent the morning yesterday chasing all the threads on the case, upper sump and lower sump. Boring, but I always do this on a rebuild. Amazing how dirty threads get even if they have always had fasteners in them. It also forces you to look closely at all the nooks and crannies of an engine more closely than you might otherwise. I have to say that the Guzzi casting are very nice, especially compared to Big 3 block castings. Very little flash. I also packed up the pistons and rod bearings and sent them to Swain Tech for coatings. When the heads get back from Mike Rich they will get a similar treatment. Then I spent the afternoon with the shifter implementing most of Phil's suggestions. I will write in more detail about that in the shifter improvement thread. I change out the transmission input spline for the one that came with the RAM clutch.

I love that exhaust. Any hints on how you built it?

Struck gold today. I found a shop here in Tucson that can handle balancing my crank. I bit the bullet and ordered the Carillo's from Mike Rich. So Labor Day was just a fun puttering day in the garage and I will have a set of polished rods to decorate with.

I would just do the balance the valves and guides and careful re assembly myself, maybe a cam. You know, squish, CC the heads, clean up the ports etc. Sorry, Specified? Ciao Sent them the dimensions of the rods you want made. They don't appear to have Guzzi in there database, and certainly don;t keep them on the shelf.

I keep thinking I should go whole hog on this build, but then I would still have a tractor motor. I just don't want to trip my fun/$$$ ratio. Still, I can't let this crisis go to waste! BTW, have you specified the FCP rods?

I decided not to spring for the Carillos for one simple reason, I can't find a shop I trust to be able to balance the crank that far off. When I was talking with Mike Rich he said his crank balancing shop charges him over $200 because of the amount of metal they have to remove to balance them. While the cost doesn't necessarily scare me, the lack of anyone in this region able to balance the crank does. All is not lost. if I can find someone who actually inspires confidence I may change course and go for the Carillos. The last guy I talked to spent ten minutes complaining about the metric system and proceeded to convert mm to inches incorrectly right in front of me. I won't be going back there. Between lightened rods and the RAM clutch I hope it will still idle...

Telaio Azzuro connecting rods, polished, 13 grams lighter, balanced to within 0.1 grams: Why? Because I can. I apologize for the lack of a hammer in this shot.

I *think* it's just a re balance. That is my understanding as well. Of course, this being Guzzi there was a California that had lighter rods blah, blah, blah...In any event, its getting a rebalance.

So here is where I stand today: 1. Packed up the heads and sent them off to Mike Rich for a CNC port, new valves and guides. 2. At Mike's suggestion, I am stick with the Sport Cam and valve springs. 3. I don't think the Carillo rods will add much, especially with the RAM clutch going in so the bottom end will be stock. 4. A kind soul over at WildGuzzi sold me a decent California crankshaft and Sport rods for a song. I am cleaning up the rods and sending the rotating assembly out for a good balance. 5. I also have a set of Joe Caruso timing gears going in 6. A Jeffries ECU kit is on the way. I will probably weld an additional bung on the left side to get wideband AFR on both sides. 7. The oil pressure sender will be wired to a relay controlling the ignition so that it cuts out if oil pressure drops. I missed out on the extender mod buy, so I will make one myself and implement the Phil mods. I have a weep back there from a recent pawl spring change so it has to come out anyway. Number 7 was a joke.

i wish I could find that exhaust...

Sorry, but there was an earlier email at 5:59 last night. Thanks any way.

I hope I am in line, but I missed where to send my info... I tried chuck at gmail dot cm to no avail...