Craig

See the thread on shifter improvements.

It is printed on the UFI filter. I have saved this from the German V11 site (translation into English my own): “ Tightening torques exist for the UFI filter. The old one (8 layer) 12 Nm, the new one (14 layer) for the Carc models 15 Nm. On both of these filters the on printed tightening torque is 10-12 Nm. To change the filter, you need a filter tool and if possible, a torque tool. Up till 2009 there were oil leaks because of an imperfect seal. Mainly on Norge, Breva, Griso 850/1100, 1200Sport2V, Bellagio and Cali Vintage. Guzzi recommends according the training material from 3/2010 to replace the gasket of the filter with a new gasket Cod. 981115. This gasket has the same measurements, but the material has different properties. If the manufacturing date of the filter is before 2009, the gasket needs to be changed. “ 12Nm is about 9ft pounds. That seems very low, I can easily hand tighten to 15 foot pounds.

I'll take one in titanium or carbon fiber. Seriously though, I will take one.

Hand tight + 1 turn is my usual for all canister filters. Whether I did it on this one or not will be cause for endless speculation... I don't really "need" to now. I was having a lot of trouble getting one of the rods removed and being able to invert the block without bending the studs would have been helpful. My engine stand has been on loan for a while and the borrower has been scarce lately. Figures, it hasn't been used in two years... I grew up in the U.S. Navy as a Submarine Nuclear Propulsion Officer, as long as you leave my family out of the discussion there is no possible technical criticism you could make that will offend me. It happened and understanding why is much more important than my feelings. Your chain of event analysis is spot on. As with all reasonably well engineered machines, operator error is at the heart of the failure. Mea Culpa. Yes, this. Which is why I decided not to open the sump back up and put the hose clamp on. It was belt and suspender and I trusted the belt to work until the next change. I have never had an oil filter so much as weep after an oil change (no one touches my engines but me, so I must be in the hundreds by now) and I trusted the "belt" to hold up while I waited for the suspenders. I am beginning to think that my hand wasn't clean enough and hand tight wasn't as tight as it normally is. Maybe old age and grip loss? There is a filter of sorts around the oil pickup. That metal mesh screen is a filter with very low head loss. If you put too restrictive a filter on the inlet of a pump you may cavitate it (slightly different effect with oil, but you can stall the pump), which helps nothing. All pumps have a characteristic called "Net Positive Suction Head" (NPSH) which is essentially how much restriction they can tolerate in their inlets before they stop pumping. Even self-priming positive displacement pumps have a finite NPSH and the simple geared volute pump on the Guzzi doesn't look to have a very large NPSH. The filter setup is correct, just difficult to access.

It was a Wix 51215 with a square rubber O-ring. I have a new pump waiting to go in. The old one was scored up a bit. There are 2-3 tiny (~0.5mm) pits on the crankcase surface of the pump as well. I don't think they will hurt. I am completely tearing down the engine. At this point the only thing left together is the oil regulator and I have yet to get the studs out of the crank case.

The following has been Rated GP (Garage Porn) for its graphic depictions of mechanical violence. The rods are not salvagable. I had to remove one of them with a cutoff wheel because it got so hot the rod bolt welded. Here is the crankshaft: This is an excellent picture of a really bad rod journal: Scored main bearing: And its matching partner: And here is where most of the bearing material went:

Only if I can solve the crankshaft problem. I have to cut or drill out a rod bolt that has apparently welded itself into the rod before I can even assess the crankshaft.

The Laverda-Guzzi will ride again. I will need to take the crankshaft to a machinist to get some professional advice on repairing the rod journal. The rods are toast. I will order some Carillos from Mike Rich next week. Will probably bite the bullet on a street cam and valve kit from him as well. Bumping the compression ratio up would be nice, but he said pistons were several weeks out when I asked earlier this week.

Its getting uglier. I am going to have to cut a rod bolt off. The rod bolts I was able to remove have a really nice looking bluing that gives a good idea of how hot it go in there. The bearing shell that is welded to the other rod big end is another excellence indication of heat. I can't really tell yet whether or not the rod journal bearing is going to be salvageable. Anyone have a crankshaft they are will to sell? There are two morals to this story so far: 1. Make sure you LOOK for your oil pressure light to come on BEFORE you start the bike, then go out. 2. Always put the hose clamp on the oil filter.

You are asking him to install an aftermarket part of unknown (to him probably) provenance. I have my engine pulled right now and have been looking at the RAM clutch in my garage. I can imagine there are enough unknowns that I would budget pulling the entire thing twice just in case it didn't shift properly. Remember once he delivers it to you, you will expect it to be perfect. He has to factor in risk. I think 12 is reasonable. On a related note, the transmission input gear installed on my Ballabio has identical tooth count and form as the new input gear that came with my RAM clutch kit. I didn't expect that. Strangely though, I could not fit the new RAM assembly onto my old clutch and it fits into the new clutch but I wasn't able to get it to fit onto the transmission input (no engine, just dry fit). I have to try harder.

My opinion is that they are not options...

I actually have a high intensity LED installed there, what I missed was that it didn't light BEFORE I started the engine, so this low oil pressure problem crept up on me.

I have the heads and cylinders pulled. Everything looks pretty good, even the piston bearings. I didn't have any way to get the 32mm nut off the nose of the crankshaft so i ordered an offset 32mm wrench as Pete Roper suggests. Just from play I can tell the the big end bearings are gone. I will pull the rods out tomorrow and take a look at the crank bearings surfaces.

The Motratech kit has been on my wish list for a while. I hate idiot lights, and this one just prove to me why. Oh well. I almost have the engine out. Hopefully I will have it torn down by the end of the day so I can get a decent assessment of everything. I will try to assess this engine and get back to you about your spare.

The jury is in. I dropped the sump this morning and the oil filter was sitting free in the sump. Last time I changed the oil I didn't put the hose clamp on the filter. Pure laziness on my part. The are plenty of metal flakes in the bottom of the sump to tell me the several bearings are toast. I will need to completely tear it down to see how bad it is. If my luck changes none of the journals will be damaged.

This. I will be going very carefully. If I can avoid a rebuild I will. This was just therapeutic to keep me from crying on the side of the road.

Well, I meant this to be "what would you do if you did destroy your engine", but here is what I believe so far. 1. The starter definitely disengaged properly and appears to still be working properly, but I haven't disassembled anything starter related yet. 2. When I try to crank it right now, cold, I get a very loud high pitched squeal once per engine revolution. Something is metal on metal that shouldn't be, 3. The clutch felt normal immediately before I shut down.. 4. I initially thought that I had a bad batch of gas or maybe even put diesel in by mistake, it was a slow (over the course of thirty seconds) loss of power and since I had just refilled my first instinct was fueling. 5. Before I shut down the engine it was clattering on the right side, I have heard hydraulic lifters sound like that, but never solid. 6. I drained the oil last night and there was nothing unusual on the magnetic plug. 7. The oil level was normal. 8. I will pull the sump tonight. Does anyone know of a crankshaft alternator retrofit for a Griso engine?

Stopped for gas. Got back on for the morning commute and after about thirty seconds started losing power then started making a lot noise (the bad kind). Pulled to the side of the road and called for a tow. I tried a restart and got a engine speed loud squeal with no start. There was never an oil warning light and I can't remember if I saw it when I started it this morning. It did not light up when I tried to restart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am sitting here waiting for a tow truck and I think I just destroyed the engine on my Guzzi. I have all of the symptoms of a failed oil pump with attendant damage. So while I am sitting here I am fantasizing about what to do. Here are the first things that come to mind: 1. Rebuild - easy. Low risk 2. 1200 Sport engine. Lots of unknowns. Transmission fit up, relocate alternator, ECU. 3. Centauro engine. What other things are within the realm of fantasy? Hopefully my fear dont bear out when I get i home. But for now I will dream instead of fret.

I will do this soon. I replaced the shifter pawl spring recently and have a drip that I need to seal up. This is coming off again anyway.

Dude! You need to warn people before you post things like this. Some of us are squeamish!

I seriously doubt I will get to this until the weather cools a bit and i can work for a full day in the garage. Any idea what this special tool looks like? I suspect I will have to make it. Are these the tools? and

Well, I got number three. Maybe I should stick it with my beanie baby and cabbage patch kids collections and wait for it to appreciate!

Thanks Scud. Storm truck, I am running those speed bleeders. Seven months now with no problems. So I think they are a winner.

A dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will really help here.