Craig

I installed some speed bleeders on all of my slave cylinders today. I wish I had done it years ago. For reference I ordered the following from SpeedBleeder (http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/) Front Brakes: 2 x SB8125 Rear Brake and Clutch Slave: 2 x SB1010S Fit is good, quality is good. I can't speak to longevity but they look like well made parts.

Docc, You lost more style points by laying your front brake rotor directly on the ground! But, yeah, that spindly thing bothers me too. I like walterg's suggestion, but I need to work out in my mid how to lift the front of the bike to slide it under.

Nope, hard to get the memory of that out of my mind...

No, except that the factory harness is an abomination. Just knowing that ugly thing is under the tank bothers me.

Another thing to remember is to get a proper crimping tool. Using the stock connectors will probably require you to splice to wires already crimped into the pins. Good splices require good crimps. Soldering is not the best solution for a wiring harness. I have this crimper set because I am often adding weatherpack connectors to things as well as the cheap insulated connectors you can get at a hardware store.

I have been considering this for a while. I would probably go with an mUnit. That gets rid of all of the really weak parts of the Guzzi system. Could even go to a more reliable VR. The only reason I want to do it is that the harness up under the tank is a total mess.

I have finsiehd the install and have about five tanks of gas on it. I just haven't bother to take any nice pictures yet.

Isn't that what the oil level warning light is for?

Yes, you have an actual low oil pressure problem. The oil filter coming loose is very likely. Start checking for metal shavings in the pan.

My VDOs have worked perfectly now for 200 hours (I like the hour meter feature on the Tach) Which is longer than the ITI lasted.

Nice to know, thanks!

Well, the grounds were fine. When I inspected the VR connector the contacts were incredibly dirty. A few minutes with a file seems to have done the trick. I did add an additional ground to the regulator and cleaned the batter ground as well. Charging voltage is back up to 13.6.

My VR bit the bullet. Every VR I have found has 3 yellow wires from the alternator. The VR on my bike has 2 yellow wires and the alternator has two coming out. Can I just use two of the phases?

A better question is "who DOESN'T have a broken ITI speedo". If Scuds price is too high let me know

I need a broken internal fuel pump to help with some prototyping. Happy to pay reasonable shipping and hassle costs.

Out of curiousity I looked around for that Panasonic part. Only places I could find want industrial quantities. Mouser, Digikey didn't list it. Now its a quest to make that float work...

Well, the float sensor fits through the fuel pump access hole, but it interferes with the side of the tank. I need to rethink the mount.

On order from Harpers.

Exactly.

Sure looks like it. I couldn't find any markings on the part at all. If my float sensor doesn't work out I'll order one of those. MG joined it to the brakc with a butt-load of solder which will make removal interesting if I have to go that way..

I have a different design sensor than you do. Mine screws to the side of the fuel pump assembly and goes up with the pump. Plenty of clearance. This is what my original part looked liked:

I bought a mag reed switch this afternoon. I cracked the glass while testing it. I just ordered this: From Digikey. It is a panel mount level switch for $7.98. Probably better than I can do ghetto engineering a float.

Nice catch! It was the right bulb, before it got smashed and shorted out the contacts. Once I dug all the debris out of the socket everything was fine. Now I just have to replace the thermistor.

Thanks, I will check that tonight. I was just at my favorite ELX shop this afternoon. Wish I had thought of this...