Craig

A jam nut is nut a normal nut that is only 2-3 threads. They are use as "stops" to keep other nuts from backing out by counter-torquing them. They have enough thread that Locktite would be useful. I will try to determine the thread on that and see if a i can find one. Your are correct that the speednuts can't take as much pre-load as a normal nut, but I think they are there for manufacturing speed not to keep the housing from binding..

Too, cool - I never heard that before. Apparently, the Speed Nut was invented by Albert Tinnerman. While speedy to install, they can evidently get gone in equally speedy fashion. I freely admit that I learned this method from a friend with a Ducati Monster. I wonder if it is worth replacing them with a proper jam-nut. I won't notice the 0.1 grams of extra mass, and a bit of locktite would even be possible.

Clearly you are a pieist. I wish you happy Pie Day of the Century...(3-14-15 for those of you are are not sensitive to others religious preferences).

Tie wrapped mine this morning. Cheap insurance.

Ordered on 16 Feb from Motorforza in Brno, CZ. Exactly 3 weeks later it arrived 6,000 miles away, in Tucson AZ! Box was intact and very light. The parts were very well packed. Here is the fairing on its own. With the windscreen: I am very happy. The fiberglass looks to be polyester resin using about 6oz plain weave cloth with a good hand layup and nice gel coat. The gel coat has no obvious pinholes, but I am sure some will show up when I prime it. I was expecting a chopper gun and Swiss cheese gel-coat for this price. The fairing is about 1/8" thick throughout. It is a good weight for a racing fairing but less stiff than I like for a street part. I may add some reinforcements to the fairing just for peace of mind. A bit of hex sandwich core and another few layers of 6oz cloth would make a big difference in stiffness. I would need to rig up a vacuum unit to do halfway right (halfway because the outer layer is already cured so I won't get a great joint). The windscreen is light and very clear. The curvature at the bottom is a little sharper than the fairing but it will be easily pulled in with some bolts. I will have to drill myself. I don't find this troublesome but some may. The cuts on the fairing and the windscreen are very accurate and the edges are finished. I have a family vacation coming up so I don't know when I will be able to mock up and start planning bracketry. Probably a few weeks at least. In my mind the riskiest thing was buying this part sight-unseen from very far away. That is behind me and I think this will come out nicely.

I am investigating this as well. The path well travelled seems to be GSXR forks. Are there any obvious reasons R1/R6 forks wouldn't work? Or any other top notch liter bike? As long as the stem is equal to or great than the stem length we have then a spacer can be made.

When you attached files you can insert them into the post. That is best since the external photo sharing sites are pretty fickle.

That's why I can't find that post...

I don't prefill my filters and the oil light never stays on as long as you reported. Less than a second every time.

Stu, Its difficult to understand your writing. Can you describe what the bike's problem is right now? Is locked up? Is it stuck in third still? Does it have transmission at the correct level? I am not trying to be a dork, but punctuation, capitalization and spaces help quite a bit to make yourself understood. Craig

Add your photos to the post as attachments, then insert the attachments into the post. Then the photos are on Jaap's server and won't go away at a whim.

Thanks. That is worth is bits in gold.

Where did you find that diagram?

I like the instrument cluster! I may do this again and completely pull the throttle bodies to clean them. It seems to run fine, but there is a bit of surging around 3K that wasn't there before.

I pulled them out using vice grips. I replaced them with stainless SHCS. They didn't look like TORX bits, I will have to look again. They had a yellow seal marker that looked undisturbed. Was that from the factory? I am the second owner. I reset everything according to the procedure. Seems to run fine. Next fuel up will tell more.

I decided to adjust the TPS and balance the throttle bodies today. The bike is running fine, so I am not trying to solve a problem, just due diligence. I have the transfer rod disconnected, the choke cable loosened, and the idle adjust screw backed off completely. I am measuring 631mV! Far from the expected 150mv. I have not ruled out something internal to the throttle body keeping the butterfly open, but I have a different problem. I can't get the TPS screw loosened. They appear to be 3mm pan head cap screws. I can't get them to budge and I do not want to round them out. Any hints here?

Did Casper's ever respond about the OBD2 cable?

Roy, Will those reed switches bounce due to engine vibes? Craig

The first 194 bulb that popped up when I search at SuperBright was $27USD each and 350LM I would be broke and blind! I looked a bit further down the page and found some more reasonable dash lights.

Fortunately the Ballabio already mounts the headlight to the frame as your diagram shows. I am hoping that the headlight mount already places the correctly for the fairing to look good. Then i will try to tie the fiaring into where the signal lamps mount. If that doesn't look right I will have to move everything. That shouldn't be very difficult for the forward fairing bracket I am imagining. if the headlight mount does work, some surgery will be in order to remove the instrument mount. The current instruments interfere with the clip-ons and I can't get full lock. I am moving the instruments to be mounted to the upper triple clamp. And just to be clear, I have no intention of mounting the fairing only to the rocker covers. That silliness never even crossed my mind. There will be a mounting frame that transfers loads to the frame, whether through the steering neck or somewhere else remains to be determined once I mock up the fairing location. I would like to mount it in such a way that I can get the valve covers off without have to fuss with the fairing at all. I do like the idea of running reenforcing bars to the top of the triple clamp like MotoForza did, just to keep the upper rear fairing and shield from fluttering. I need to think about how to mount to the upper steering stem. And make sure the mount is somewhat weather resistant.

They are DC-DC switching power supplies. Even if you are not drawing power from their output they use a bit on their input side.

Thanks! That confirmed my guess from some vague pictures on Google.

I installed the clip-ons tonight. I will have to do something with the holes that formerly held the bars. Can someone tell me what the hole in the base of the clip-on is (marked with '?')? I do have some minor clearance problems with hydraulics bumping into the instruments at lock. Do the clip-on bikes have different hydraulic fittings or different lock limits? P.S. I realize the Laverda fairing will probably require me to install the clip-ons below the upper triple clamp, but I didn't feel like taking the front end apart this evening. I only had an hour to spend out there. Well, I answered my questions on Google. It looks like the clip-on bikes mount the instruments to the trip clamp not to the headlight mount like the Ballabios. The holes in the clip-on base are for alignment screws into the triple clamp. Anyone want to sell a clip-on triple clamp?

Yep, I already know how to do that. There will be rubber washers between the fairing and any hard mounts. Yes, it is a total package. I will not be duplicating the red one, and I don't know exactly where I will end up yet, but it will gel when I get the fairing mocked up. Yeah, I am a little leery of those, but, it's better to look good, than to feel good! And it will make me think I have the Duc Paul Smart that I almost pulled the trigger back when they were still available new...

If I were selling fairings I would either sell full up kits or do it the way Aerotech does it. Supporting people with wildly varying skill sets would rapidly eat any available time. Providing drawings helps a few but confuses the vast majority and if they do it wrong there are always those who will blame you for their inabilities. I don't want to know how MotoForza did theirs. I can do as well and probably better. I will probably build a full support structure from the valve covers forward to the head lamp and up to the windscreen base. Much depends on how stiff the fairing is. It won't be the lightest possible but it will be sturdy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk