emry

As I recall the main use of platinum and iridium in spark plugs it to allow longer times between changes. Most cars now use platinum and have 100,000 intervals for changing. Both platinum and iridium is much more resistive to matter transference than the good ol standard plug. Thus the electrode does not wear down, which keeps the gap constant over a longer period of time. Also the smaller electrodes are less prone to fouling due to localized heat. (The electrode's temp is higher due to less surface area=better burn off characteristics.) Now as for more power. Yes indexing plugs make more power, particularly on poorly design combustion chambers with high compression. Whould we on a guzzi??? Sure a small bit. I think weight reduction through matter expulsion would be a bigger increase in power to weight ratio though.

I have painted my engine cases since the my last post and during reassembly I choose not to use a front gasket and instead usd a thin layer of Hylomar. Applied as big J wrote of course. 2k miles and not a leak.

I regualrly hit the rev limiter (red). Oops. No problems yet. Works as an impromtue quick shifter. "impromtue" - could someone speel that for me.... Too much gin and tonic.....

Has anyone tired the interior anti-bluing treatments that are popular with the H-D crowd? Or are those threat only for the chrome pipes. I can remeber the brand names but if I recall they were supposed to work relatively well.

Only thing I can think of to help that Mike has not covered is be careful when cutting the lines. I always wrapped electrical tape tightly around the end and then cut it with a fine tooth hacksaw or a air cut-off wheel. Helps to keep the steel from fraying.

My wire that is labeled "carb" is for the gas level sensor.

In the auto world the long rod theory is always good for selling a new bottom end. In theory it make sense. The longer the rod longer the piston spends at TDC and the larger the angle of the rod verse the crank center line as the piston travels towards BDC. But I also read a very nice article including a excel spreadsheet demonstrating that the benifits were very small unless the rod was 3 miles long. Wish I new what I did with that doc.

TX, Do you just sit at the computer and look for nasty animations????? ICK....

Love my Grenade suit. I has kept me warm and dry during my 45 minute communte. I wouldn't of paid for it though. Would have been my loose. I didn't see any reason in dissambling a good running motor. So I just yanked the engine and stipped and painted it my self. Got a great riding suit for the effort. Sweet!. I should be posting some pics this weekend of the final paint job.

We were sponsered by Motorex when I worked at Yoshimura. The oil actually was of good enough quaility that we would run it in all of our Supersport bikes and in the Superbikes until race day. ELF was still the choice during the races; $60 a litre though.

damit pete!! You made me spit out my beer.

I think I am the only person running a reverse shift pattern. I had to make a some small parts to make it work. I should have a chance to post some pics this weekend. I did a quick writeup ages ago and emailed it to someone.... Do they still have it???

Pete, I am just curious. Why the thoughts about the metal vs fiber plates. Do you think that a fiber plate would hold up in a single plate system that is "abused". In the auto industry metal was for heavy duty racing app's, fiber for street or longer life. The metal had a tendency to chew up flywheels and pressure plates. Many now have moved to ceramic design that seems to combine the forgivness of fiber with the bite of metal.

I promise, no sandblasting. A tooth brush is more than enough. As for the HD paint it would appear to be my fault. I grab the High temp wrinkle instead of the flat wrinkle. If I get a chance to go to the local dealer, 60 miles away I might pick up a can, $14.99 a can though. I think I am going to try some Rust-oleum "textured" finish. I sprayed it on some area to test for color and wrinkle. It was just about dead on. I don't know about its temp resistance though. I figure at $3.00 a can I experiement for the greater good. I also look at the afore mentioned BBQ grill paint, but it seemed to be just flat and not textured, although I have not bought a can. Any more suggestions.

I would seem to be the ring gear bolts. The if the flywheel bolts hit the trans, oh boy!!

When it came time to re-registar my bike I had to actually take it down to the court house so that a local sheriff could verify that it actually exsisted. The resistar's office didn't believe me. Then they asked me what it was worth.... ahhhh... $1000 or so.

Well this is what 1 squirt of carburetor cleaner can do your paint. Or when you take 4 cans, a toothbrush, and twentry minutes.

Yep, on my 02 the key bolts to the bracket in the upper left corner.

Well I hate to cause this thread to suface but.... Upon disassembly of my Scura I found 3 of the ring gear bolts to be barely hand tight, 1 had arlready started to back out, it had about 2 threads showing. The other 3 were still very tight. Each loose one was next to a tight one though. I imagine that if it had continued to back out a very messy impact with the trans would eventually occur. I notice on this pic that it looks as if one of those bolts is missing??? Good news though. After penetrant testing my flywheel does not have any cracks.

Well I just measued my, since I had it apart.... 0.2225" or 5.65mm for the rest of the world. I have a little over 9k miles. As much as I hate to say it it would seem some error in assembly was made. This allowed the clutch to slip slightly while you were riding. Or you had a clutch plate made of caulk??? Maybe a adjustable pushrod would be in order to get little more life???

Nope, try the right hand side of the bike. The seat will come up and then to the back to be removed. I would show you a pic but my Scura has exploded in my garage.

Well here is some pics so that those of you with out this blessed event can envy us mutated boil covered lumps of italian crap paint. Just as a side note, I opted for the Grenade jackets and pants and am very pleased. I have since decided to paint my cases myself. Hell why not, couldn't look any worse. I also am taking this opporunty to check and grease everything that should of been. The factory was out of grease on my bikes B-day, because I haven't found any yet!!!!! As I try different paints I will try to keep all of you updated. But so far the Harley Wrinkle Heat Resistant is out. The wrinkle is to wrinkly and it is not flat, but gloss, badd match.

If I recall the big wheel is known as "The McClain Wheel" the individual being Mr. McClain. When I last saw it he only was using small single cylinder engines, it looked scary then, but with a V-8. Eeeeek!!! Antonio - Would you be referring to "Orange County Chopper" by chance. I would never, ever by a bike from them after seeing all of the hacked shit they cobble together. Not that I would before hand, but. Just as a side note involving those individuals, A good friend of mine works for Horton Haulers, a trailer company. Apperently HH is building a new 53' trailer for OCC in exchange for advertising. The owner of HH wanted Paul and Paul Sr. to come to an event to sign autographs. The answer was no, but a fee for apperences was given. $100,000 each, plus flight, plus all expenses paid for a stay at the Ritz-Carlton. Vinny and numbnuts were only $50,000 each. Also at the Ritz. Ouch.

Agreed, but should we be tuning for best power or best economy at lower throttle settings. 2000 rpm range with 5hp difference. Typical driving. You only need enough force to overcome wind resistance, tire friction, and internal friction. Are we really concerned about power here? Will the owner appricate 1 more HP here or 1 more mpg. Perhaps I have been spoiled by the automotive world. Spoken like a true dyno operator. You are behind a rock. No one would pay you to tune their motorcycle to be more effecient, and still offer good performance.We as consumers have been brain washed into more power more power more power. Look at the crap they sell "up to 10 more Horsepower, only $19.95!!!" People only want to see a before and a better after dyno run. It's that HP number that matters!!!!! To my knowledge most are a "Throttle - Speed" variety. Injector duration is found by taking TPS and RPM and returning a value. This is then modified for altitude, engine temp, and intake air temp. Some do use a MAP sensor along with the TPS and RPM for the inital value. This normally works fine and so does dyno tuning. But what take into account the dirty air my engine breathes when plugging along in rush hour traffic, or the bad gas I filled up with, or the dirty air fliter I should have replaced 3 months ago, or the oil that is slipping past my worn valve guides. It is reactive to its inputs, not to how well the engine is actually running. I haven't seen this one yet. I'll have to finish later, bedtime.