emry

You can get perforated steel sheet from McMaster-Carr. Quite a different assortment of hole sizes and patterns. Even different thinkness and material types.

Personally I like the rattley clutch, let them hear it at stop light, click into gear then they can hear that nice bass as i let them suck fumes. But I have very little if any driveline lash. My on-off throttle is very smooth (using the clutch helps, it can be a bit sudden at lower speeds, it did take some getting used too. My shifting clicks nicely into the next gear, up or down. Once again very "jap bike." My bike also pings, very heavily, I have just learned to ride around it. Down shift two or three gears or keep the engine revved up, it is more than happy to play at higher rpms.

You can make a small bracket to hold down your airfilter if you are handy with a hacksaw. I used some thin angle iron that I got from the local hardware store. Haven't had any problems.

A popular option on older Goldwings was to bolt on a 80amp GM car alternator.

2002 Scura w/5500 miles and it has not broke yet. Keeping my fingers crossed. Not while riding of course....

If I recall side B is what my Scura was set on. I was happy because I could easily change it to a shorter pull. And a big oops. Side A produces the shorter 1/4 turn and B creates the longer 3/8 turn. Sorry. Ive gone back to edit the old post to try a avoid confusion.

Side A creates a throttle pull that is about 1/4 of a turn; straight rate. (Some progressivness is gained at the throttle body). Side B is about 3/8's turn and is very progressive. Perhaps you could trim down on side B to create a more linear pull that would also make for a longer turn.

I get mine at Waly-Mart.

If i recall doesn't the OEM throttle have two differnt slots for the cable. I remember taking mine apart and being able to remove the small cam that the cable attaches to in the throttle grip. I am pretty sure that the cam has two paths for the cable, one large and on small. The large would shorten the amount the throttle has to open whiel the small would create a longer turn. I see if i can oull it apart tonight a post a pic. Or maybe I am just crazy.

Don't touch that.... That is the atompheric pressure sensor... The fuel trim is adjusted using one of the OE computers. Measure at the back of the connector on the TPS sensor, be careful when probing, between the top and the bottom wire. On my 02 scura the colors are purple on the top and black w/purple on the bottom. To adjust lightly loosen the two torx T20 screws that attach the the TPS to the TB and rotate the TPS until you get the desired voltage. Be sure and have the key turned on. This should be done last in the TB balance/idle procedure. (I'll comment later on this. I know it conflicts with Jeff In Ohio's procedure[which is very good by the way]so don't holer at me jest yet.) Any one post a quick pic??

As an AUS friend used to say "That's tits mate." (No offense to any ladies I hope.)

Didn't get to finish earlier. I like merc stick personally. I'm just old fashioned. The problem with them is that if you are not really careful you can suck merc into your engine. Not good at all. Not to metion the very posionous fumes that result. Also you have to be careful when you store them other wise they make a nasty mess. I tried the water mano that was outlined on this site and was quite pleased with how it work. Plus it was real cheap to make. I will be buying a twinmax though, I have used it in the past and really did love it.

That evol tool is a really old design. People used to uses them on older multi-cylinder cars, I would think it would be hard to get on our intakes. I would recommend the Twinmax all the way.

Red Sharpie marker. It looks better than the aluminum. Some company make a "anodized" look paint. Saw it at Autozone. Maybe??

You guy are welcome to come to my place... But I do live in GA. Kinda long rode trip for some tinkering. If you guys are planning a tech day, selecting a "topic" would be much more productive. Then just arrange a one a month workshop having a different topic. Maybe if I ever get to one of the GA gaterings I'll try to get something similar started.

I agree with northend. But like Mike suggested make sure and keep the tap very straight. I use a small piece of metal tubing that is little larger than the tap and about half its length. Hold the piece of tubing firmly against the surface of what you are tapping while you are getting the tap started. If you are careful you can get it really straight.

Very nicely done, i have the orginal Spare Parts Catalogue that I could scan if you want to add it. Maybe Guzzi should hire you. I would be nice to see all of the manufacterors post info on the net.

This made me think of the time I lost the "entire shift lever" on my 900 ninja. I was in sixth and about an hour from Death Valley Ranch. And yes it was hot. Just the M6 and a nut, ever since the "trip" I always locktite or double nut my linkage bolts.

Well i am sure that if I really pushed the issue they would be more than happy to R&R the cases. They are of the opinion that if it isn't broke don't fix it. I have a good running '02. No bolts problem, trans spring etc. Why meddle? Just to have paint on the case that won't match? While I understand some individuals reasons for replacing the cases I just don't want to mess up a good thing. To each their own I guess.

Anyone tried to convince their dealer to get some quality bolts like ARP?? Might save you some wait even if you had to shell out the $20.00.

Shit.... Stop it.... I have work to do. I really only read the tech topic because of the serious nature. Thanks for the lite laugh relief, I needed it. What is it about computers that turns many of us into idiots? Just as a note, my 2002 has flaky paint real bad on the crankcase. My dealer won't even consider doing the case replacement. They recommmened some discounted harley paint and a little elbow grease. Who would of thought that harley would of gotten something like paint right????

here is dunlop's answer. Dunlop FAQ. I cup my front's pretty bad, not quite close to Paul's, but bad for a street bike, and I am very hard on front brakes. Makes my wife hold me tighter

This is the continuation of several threaads that revolve around pinging, ignition timing, pistons, etc. Found this link that does a decent job of explaining the requirements of peak power and ignition related events. K-B Silvolite

Just that, Whitworth. Back during the industrial revolution Joseph Whitworth developed his own system. Most manufacturers made their own fasteners and thus fasteners were as unique as the vehicle they came on. Whitworth pushes the idea of universal specs for bolts and threads. This was back in the mid 1800's it wasn't until the early 1900's that US standards and metrics were beginning to be adopted. The main difference is the angle of the threads. Whitworths use a 55 deg while US and metric use 60 deg.

Tornado or not, I don't think that fuel exiting the regulator has enough velocity to blast itself over to the left hand side of the tank. It might fountin up a bit and be real pretty in the tank though.