emry

My gauge starts to glow around 120 to 140 miles depending on the right hand action. Normally takes about 4 gal to fill.

Give me a day or two and i'll post the one I made out of 18ga. sheet steel and some black spray paint. Used simple hand tools, sheers, angle grinder, and a drill. I'll even post the template I made. I think it is still lying in my garage.... I found a taillight at Autozone for $6 if I recall, smaller than the orginal but still DOT. Fits much better than the hideous OEM.

With possible misheat treated gear dogs.

I'm confused, are you adjusting the TPS by changing the idle stop screw???? I hope you are adjusting the TPS using it's adjustment slots, then adjusting the idle stop screws, (yes there are two of them) then rechecking the TPS? You have to get this sorted!!! Your bike has to be running good so all of the people on Harleys will have something to be jelous of

You nailed it. The clutches allow for more controlled engine braking by allowing the clutch to slip under decelleration so that the rear wheel does not begin to slip and hop. Remeber when most racers close the throttle they are near red line. Engine braking can easiily over power rear wheel traction when all of the weight is shifted forward. The fancier clutches, even have different springs and ramps that can be changed to vary the amount of load before the clutch begins to sliip. Some racer like Tom Kipp were known to like no engine braking!!! He would downshift from 5 to 2 and then just let go of the clutch going into a turn, letting the slipper take car of the rest.

I might agree with that but.... A lean mixture will produce a much hotter burn than a rich mixture thus the gas carrying the heat out the pipe will be hotter with a lean mixture, even if there is extra fuel in the rich mixture. During the burn process BTU's (heat) are absorbed by the fuel molecules which breaks the molecular bonds so that the molecules can recombine with our O2 and N to form a variety of other smaller molecules such a NOx and H2O. It is this process that releases engery in the form of heat. (Fire) When excess fuel is present it still absorbs some of the intial heat energy but never undergoes the combustion process of recombining. (No extra heat) Thus the net output of BTU is lower. Proper dyno tuners use pyrometers to tune individual cylinders for the best power. A higher temp indicates a leaner mixture. Trying to determine mixture ratio's using the soot on a pipe is a futile effort on a modern FI machine due to the variables used by the FI to adjust the mixture, particularly when a 2 in 1 in 2 crossover is used which causes sharing of the exhaust gaeses. (That why the put the O2 sensor in the head pipes.) Gasoline Explaination .... Long but Detailed. Technical explaination of combustion; not for the math faint. And some where else I have seen an excellent explaination of the effects of rich lean ratio on the formation of combustion byproducts with the thermal engery calculations, and thus the temps but I can't find it. I will keep looking.

Well Al, lets hope this next relocation will sort the issue. But the question still bothers me is why does this problem seem regular for some and then non-exsistant for others? Components are located is very similar positions on the affected years, one bike has it one bike doesn't. That just does not make sense. The part are or should be high quility, the regulator and the fuel pump are both out-sourced so that should rule out an quality build issue. It just doesn't add up.

You can make one if you are daring or inventive. A $1 dial type tire pressure gauge and some fuel line works pretty good if you seal the connections real good. You just have to keep a close eye on the gauge in case of leaks. I made one about 5years ago and it still works pretty good, for testing at least, I wouldn't want to use it for extended periods of time.

Quick question, have any one of you with the vapor lock problem tried bleeding the fuel system. Here are my thoughts... Vapor lock is when the fuel in the line heats up to a point that the liquid fuel is forced in to a gaseous state. Much like an air bubble. When this bubble enters the fuel pump or is created there the pump looses its ability to pressurize the fuel. Someone correct me if I am wrong but our fuel pumps should be a rotary vane style pump. These pumps use the suface tension of a liquid (fuel) to create a seal between the rotor vanes and the pump housing. When an air bubble is present of large enough size the vanes no longer seal with the housing and the pump rotor mearly spins. At this point the pump no longer can produce adequate fuel pressure. During a period of vapor lock has anyone loosened one of the fuel lines and allowed gravity to re-prime the pump? Loosening the line that is attached to the regulator should allow fuel to gravity feed though the whole fuel system at which point the fuel pump should work normally. Or has anyone ridden with a fuel pressure gauge attached and noticed a marked decrease or increase in fuel pressure during the problem. Also does this problem only occur to those of you with electronic petcocks?

Al, Are you sure you didn't swipe those photos from NASA?

Looks like someone forgot to take off a tirewarmer..... No thanks.

You could weld in your own cross rods for about $10.00. Do you know anyone near that is rather industirious?

I just smeared the silicone over the top of the joint this time. The gasket had not actully "blown out" like it did the first time. If it starts to leak again I will replace the gasket with one that is hand cut from thicker material and use a little or 3M 1104, also know as Yamabond. I just used silicone this time because it was black and was being used externally; wouldn't let that stuff near the insides of my engine.....

I idle cleanly around 1000, using a lab scope, with the looser valve specs; 0.15mm in and 0.20mm ex if I recall. When I orginally bought the bike it barley idled at 1300 and would stall regularly and occasionally back fire and blow the TB's out. Dealer twiddled but it never helped. The looser valve spec made a huge differnce.

My gasket leaked (same spot both times, right below the r/h motor mount) at about 500 miles and was repaired by the delaer. Pulled the cover and replaced the gasket. About 2000 miles later it began to leak again. I had checked the torque on the bolts several times during this mileage but they were never loose. Cleaned the supected area really good, smeared some black silicone on and it has been good for the past 3000miles. Sure beat the week it took the dealr to R&R the cover gasket. Makes me wonder how good the machined surface is between those two pieces. This is something that also came across my mind. But if the area is over stressed almost all model should have the same leak. I am leaning toward just a bad match of slightly inaccurately machined cases and covers.

To cool. Love the reversed heads.

Next week I'll try and post somempic of the muffler i'm creating. Fit is similar to the G&B but uses dual outlets. So far it has been pretty loud though.

Check the bulb sockets in the gauge cluster, they are very suseptible to corrosion or breakage. Also make sure you have a good ground for the bulbs and the rest of the cluster.

I agree that they should provide better disc cleaning than traditional rotors in a dirt bike application. But on a road bike this extra cleaning isn't really needed. At least hopefully not. I think that they really are just a gimmick. If the technology really provided better braking F1, World Rally, not to metion any of the factory MC road race team would all have them. I might by the square rotors though! Do they come with square wheels too?

Very nice. Much easier to trace. You would think that the technical writers would have figured this out by now.

Guzzi Tech In other small bore low rpm

Yank the tipover. I always figured if my bike tipped over (waded) that I hope it would leak gas and catch fire. Then I could tell my uninsurence company that it caught fire and then caused me to crash. Just be sure and set fire to the valve and throw it with the rest of the mess at the wrecking yard. :!: Don't try this at home folks.

Well here is some interesting reading on oil filters. Private Filter Study Personally I would make my own tube. I also like the V-sump design much better, plus it is race proven. As for the filter on the front getting pierced.... I would worry more about my front tire. CBR600's have the filter mounted up front like that. At least older ones do. All those squids that have crashed their fairing to bits haven't seemed to have to many problems. Except fot the rocket Fram filters. But that was Fram's fault.

Sorry for the O.S. comment... Couldn't help myself. But callison you are my hero I would like to know more about the cams though and I'll take a G.G. too.

You guys should be running Linux anyway.