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300 Scura's in the first batch and another 300 in the "that was a good idea!!" second batch (Reported somewhere...). Of the first batch only ~35 remained in the US, 50 or so imported orginally. (According to an ex-MG employee info, most were re-exported due to lack of sales) I have 10k on mine, crack tested twice; I added washers very early on maybe 1k miles. From general observations the occurance seems to be much more "common" place than generally known. I have never found a reliable number on the second batch and where they went. Heck they most likely had different parts in them, knowing Guzzi's small batch purchasing perchant. If Guzzi had sold 10,000 Scura's it would have been a recall. In the US NTSHA goes after the big fish. Since they don't care, neither does the OEM. At least I got some riding gear for the crappy paint on the cases. Not that was much consolidation, I just didn't trust my local MG tech's to replace my cases; heck they couldn't fix a front cover leak.

HA! Sorry not realy laughing at you, but vendor issues have been problematic for several OEM's. For example Yamaha's XV1900 engines had similar failures early on, improper heat treatment of the lifter base was the cause (vender). Made a real mess out of the cam's too. Normally customers would only bring them in once the pushrod would fall out of place and it would turn into a single! Hopefully the "new" inventory has better quality control. Hope your repairs provide you with ALOT more miles then before.

I'm with Cliff, you measured the voltage on the wrong wire. 5 volts is the supply voltage. If you read that on the sensor wire (what is read by the ECU) it would think you were beyond wide open all the time. I also doubt it would run for long, if at all. Think fouled plugs. If the TPS is really "shorted" you will have 2 wires with 5volts and the third should be the ground, otherwise measure again. I have seen TPS short high but never past 4.5 volts or so, if the ground wire has resistance it will push the TPS signal high, but never to the full 5volts. Why didn't you take the bike back and have them take it for a test ride. Normally a rich mixture will cause idle speeds to drop quickly, sometimes even die on closed throttle. Lean mixtures (think air leak) will cause the idle to hang high durinng closed throttle, which will get worse as the bike get even hotter from the lean mixture.

Pretty good chance it didn't help.

After 2 gaskets blew out under warranty I removed it and used Hylomar instead, hasn't leaked since (8years or so) get a new seal for the alternator while you are at it, it can be very easy to nick and is rather delicate. Knock the old seal out enough so that it is easy to remove once the cover is reinstalled. Then install the new seal.

Have you tried a nice whack with a rubber mallet? Many models experience deformation of the lower fork leg due to the pinch bolts, they are intentially used to "oval" the mounting area to clamp the axle. Since the bolt that retains the cartridge is in the center of the fork bottom that area is not in contact with the axle. The outer areas of the clamp will deform over time, which provides a tighter clearence during removal and installation. A decent tap will normally set the axle back into place, and the pinch bolt will happily hold the axle from rotating itself free. Your original posting for the Duc axle is an excellant visual of the areas that are clamped.

Nope, but you can adjust the fast idle system so that it is closer. As long as you have clearence when the fast idle is fully off, no issues. If I recall I just removed cable slack, or was there an ecentric adjustment? (It has been to long since I had to tinker with the darn thing.) The rod between the TB's is for mechanially syncing the TB when off idle (white knob), the left TB has a set screw that is used to remove backlash in the TB's rod adjustment rod during closed throttle (when it transitions from compression to tension) while the right acts as the main throttle plate stop (idle speed). (Although there has been much debate about the methods to be used over the years.

My vote is with guzzimeister for now. At 10k miles my shafts were worn enough that it would act up 3k~5k (missing) and I could change idle quality just by moving the shaft fore and aft. Although every suggestion seems valid also.

Like to think I'm not stupid, some may disagree. You bought a Guzzi....Nuff said.... Welcome to the club. Since you have the DVOM covered, the correct "feel" when using feeler gauge is similar to putting a piece of paper in the middle of the phone book and pulling it out. A drag should be felt. Easy to practice on a Guzzi at least, open an close the clearence to feel the difference between too loose/too tight and just right, 15 minutes and you will have it down. A little grease on the valve cover gasket will ease removal next time, unless your are one of the replace everytime type. Hylomar finally fixed my "phase sensor" leak.

MyECU Fourm Cliff has a forum, some quick searches there will most likely yield you some good information. Several other members from here are also active there. From your initial post you did not indicate if you have made any change to the mapping in MyECU. The map that Cliff provides is close for most, but in some cases it may take considerable work to get it right.

You are on the right track. When the secondary contacts in the solenoid get dirty and only produce a "click" the pull down circuit will draw to much current and can blow the fuse. Somewhere here is a thread with some very good diagrams.

Second. The grounding wires from the ECU case are small. Very small for a direct battery short.

I rarely have much to say about appearances... but... WOW. As for suing Guzzi about incorrect tank materials, how were they responsible for the change in mandated fuels, often a local municapaility issue? The material was suitable for fuel used at the time worldwide and still is in most areas. Perhaps you should sue the EPA and the ethanol industry. I sure you could quickly get it classified as a Class Action, I would sign up.

Less cardan bar movement shouold just be transfered into more suspension movement.

Skitzophrenia. Nuff said. But as for the wedges, some individual has started making pucks for the Marchesini rims and selling them to racers with some success, the OE wear quickly and are costly to replace. Perhaps he/she has branched out to other makes with similar maladies.

Not to chime in late or anything but I normally prefer the Timesert brand, although it does depend on the install location. Timeserts use a solid insert in place of the spring with a small lip at that fits into a groove that must be cut in the repair site. Much better luck with them in areas where bolts are removed on a normal basis, helicoils can come out too easily and do not provide a very good taper at the OE's bolts insertion point. But either can work well if the installation is done carefully.

The field rep's that work in my company here in the US have been doing fuel sampling in their territories over the past 3 years. 8%~22% at the pump with a national average of 9%. High volume stations were at or near the 10% limit while the higher percents were seen at smaller low volume rural stations. In theory the tank should slowly regain its shape when the ethanol is removed. Unforunatley it will do so at the same rate as it was absorbed. The whole "what is happening" to the tank issue is a result of a combination of the ethanol and the additives, either used indiviudally does not affect our tanks. Evaporative emissions testing during the turn of the century by automotive groups discovered when common fuel additives and ethanol were used together that the radiant emissions of the fuel tank increased significantly. This lead to the use of chlorinated/fluorinated - rubber/plastics components.

http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=276051 Related discussion from the WERA forums and the use of said batteries. Something that needs to be mentioned is that Cold Cranking Amps is the rating that is important for starting, Amp Hours rating is important for keeping the headlight on when the bike is not.

While I still have my orginal pawl spring I have had a stick shift lever. Removing the lever and giving it and its bolt (the pivot) a good clean and lube has worked for me. After that occuresd a few times I just installed a Zerk so it can be regualrly greased.

I don't run any of those. Some where here or perhaps on the old site(server, i thinks it was lost??? perhaps I am ) there was the part number for some K&N's that had a length of tube before the filter plus an angle (where the filte and tube meet). Someone here had posted had posted way back when. Those are the one I use, and have been happy. They tuck in nicely when the the side panels are removed, I never even made any bracket to help hold them in. At least that way you keep the tuned length at least close to the engines rpm range. After a search of some -old- threads I found RU 1780, Al-roe.... had posted back in 03. I had the link, but seem unable to post it. Page 3 in the thread also had pictures.

This is a useless post by me but, thanks for the laugh guys! It has been the best I have had all day. It is not to often that Hubert and I agree but in this case i concur.

The Odyssey batteries became very popular with the custom HD market, big cube engines and very poor charging systems (like ours). Apparently the heavy starter draw with low charging voltages, and the tendency for short rides was killing the batteries quickly, not creating repeat customers. Thus some warnings about charging. As for the regualtor instructions, HUH??? Really. Properly jumping using a NON-running vehicle shouldn't pose a problem, a 12v battery is a 12v battery. Perhaps too many failures due to the running vehicle jump start, our older watercraft used to eat CDI units because of that. Rewinding to a 3phase would be a mathmatical problem. Finding another stator and rotor (don't forget to re-calculate the magnet size) could be a possibilty, although perhaps a bit expensive. I think a decent regualtor, a battery that does not have special charing requirements (Yuasa or such, and the occasional overnight boost is both the most economical and practical solution. Kiwiroy, on your new regulator are you copying the orginal design or using a differnt?

Typically when an injector begins to fail they start to leak. This shows up intially as a very rich cylinder. In some rare cases the windings can short or open, one will ruin an ECU and the cylinder is dead, the other will just drop the cylinder. Although getting a set of balanced and flowed injectors is worth the money. KiwiRoy - You seem resourcefull enough, why not make your own flow tester. 555 timer circuit with a controlling transistor works dandy. I'll post a video of the one I made later tonight Your "sneeze" whould be a classic characterisic of a lean mixture. When I began tuning with MyECU my Guzzi required much more fuel than I or others thought necessary. It wouldn't even run on the map that was orginally provided. When running with the OEM unit it had developed a low throttle sneeze and would stall at stop lights. What or why things had changed from new was never resolved. The exhaust CO was 0% when checked.

When using a "open" (SCR is used to open the current path) style recitifier voltage can only be regulated in half waves. For the regulator to function the SCR's must be turned on, they will remain in this state until the voltage crosses 0v, at which point they will open, thus cutting output. This can make output filtering very important as voltage levels can swing wildly at low frequencies. A "short" sytle regualtor will ground a circuit at a determined voltage level, instead of cutting out a half wave it will only remove a portion of the output during that cycle (normally this voltage level is measured post filter, thus the short can actually occur at any point during the full recification cycle). This helps to create a much more stable voltage output, particularly when used with 3-phase. This method is much more electronic friendly as it creates much less noise (electrical, not audible). Open styles are cheap, short styles get more expensive. In the short sytle SCR's, IGBT's or FET's are used depending on requirements and cost. IGBT's and FET models will actually clip (by shorting the circuit at a higher frequency than the a/c) the voltage to a determined level thus smoothing the output even more. This can be very desireable with modern elctronics. Short sytles also are desireable because of less chance of stator or reg/rec arcing. When a permanent magnet stator circuit is open, full voltage is still produced, this can lead to arcing which will flow full current (though a non-desired path) and melt, the up side is the rectifier does not deal will constant high current loads, once again cheaper because less attention to heat dissaption is needed. A short style will drop the a/c to a lower value because of the reduced impedence, which lowers the chance of arcing, although the recifier and regulator now must be able to dissipate more heat, airflow and construction can be a concern. Hope that makes sense.

Using a full wave reg/rec should work just fine, one diode leg just would never be used (it could be a spare). As long as the wattage rating is greater than the Guzzi orginal. I will play around at work and see if if I can find either a full wave reg/rec that might work and/or a 3 phase. Give me few days. Does anyone have the output spec handy?