emry

Hey Kiwi Roy, while I have not cut into a rec/reg lately, shoudn't the recitifer portion be a bridge, while the scr's are used in the regulator portion to dump a/c?

Perhaps it was a tuned version of the MM1.5 for one of their models. http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/

MyECU. I liked the full user tuning and it works. Closed loop tuning is an option. Price is a plus, two options, prebuilt or solder yourself. Small group of very deticated users, makes questions and answers quick and simple. Do a search and you will find a lot of info. Cliff, the developer, stays active and has branched out to other makes that also use the similar generations of the ECU, Ducati, Laverda, etc. It normally is built into the orginal case so it fits it the OEM location and to the OEM wire harness.

Sounds like a grounding issue. I would get out the meter and do some voltage drops and se what is going on.

Only a Guzzi would have replacing relays as part of its regular maintence. Too funny. Glad you got it sorted.

Dunlop 252's were the ones that caused problems. Tried two sets. Metzlers and Bridgestones(OEM) worked without problem on all of the bikes (we have 4 Fjr's.) Although the BT's start cupping after 3k miles, just like the ones on my Guzzi did.

I just chased this problem on an FJR about week ago for a concerned friend. He had installed a different brand of tires from OEM, rode about 1k miles and then noticed a "shimmy" when he took his hands off the bars. My answer was don't. But after running through many of the above suggestions, I swapped the tres out with another brand and the problem was gone. He was then satisfied that his bike was ok and that it was only the tires.

If it is the secondary of the solenoid on the starter, disassembly and a good scuff with some sandpaper or such of the main contacts will normally allow a good contact for starting. As noted above if your problem is the primary windings or other starter activation circuits you are in for a little more work.

45 vAC maybe???

Breakeven results like that are fairly typical on a full wave system. That is why most manufacturers switched to three phase systems, particularly on FI models.

Of note, typical driveshaft house may not understand the amount of angle or implications this shaft undergoes. A shop that specializes in off road 4x4's and extreme driveshaft angles would / should get the picture. Most high performance drag shops should also understand, when you explain that this shaft undergoes about 4" of travel under normal use.

I work with an individual that worked with Guzzi from around 99~04. When I told him I own an 02 Scura, he laughed and asked if I rode it. He was quite serious. During one of several trips to the factory he noted major assembly "mistakes" and he is not a very technical indivdual (although experienced) -- sales.... Perhaps the shaft was half n' halfed during assembly. Easy to do whe nyou dro pseveral.. Sangria!!! What's the football score???? Get it balanced. While 65k is very good, a balanced driveshaft is not that expensive and would only help matters (cheaper than a trans case.) "It looks OK" is not the correct answer, they have machines for that, make it right.

If our injectors suffered from choked flow we would not need a pressure regulator, not to mention the resulting spray pattern would be poor. On a similar note, many turbo/supercharged engines reference the regulator to manifold, so that as manifold pressure increases so does the fuel pressure.

I will not read this entire thread. I will post this tid bit. Fuel pressure(relative, that is what matters) is the differnce between the face of the injector(in the manifold, subject to engine vacuum at partial or less throttle) and the fuel rail(determined by the regulator). Our bikes have NO manifold pressure sensor. they are purely Alpha-n, throttle-speed, or any of the other names. The ECU calculates base fuel injection duration based on throttle angle and rpm. Period. It is modified per enviroment variables, temps, altitude, engine temp (that is a whole other thread).... Our system was mapped to a atmosheric relative value. That means the regulator keeps fuel pressure constant, relative to atompheric pressure (NOT connected to any intake ports). Relative pressure will change from idle to WOT, with high pressure differnce at idle then at WOT (atompsheric pressure is in the manifold at WOT). The ECU uses "best guesses" to determine how long to open the injector. Our system will never be close or even very good, in regards to fueling calculations. But it will work.... ok at least.... enough to ride and enjoy. Pressure regulators utilize a spring and diaphram to regulate fuel pressure, rapidly changing levels of vacuuum cause the diamphram to "vibrate" which causes premautre wear of the diaphram and early failure. Manufactours that use a "manifold relative" system join 4 cylinders (only type I am aware of) to the regualtor so that constant vacuum is applied and fuel pressure is constant (relative to the intake manifold pressure). Fuel mapping is done accordingly. Those same manufacturors twin and single cylinder models use no manifold referencing for fuel pressure but use a manifold pressure sensor to calculate "speed-density" also known as D-jetronic fuel based values. Thus the ECU is now compensating for changes in "relative" fuel pressure based on manifold pressures. Ex. at lower throttle settings the realtive pressure is higher so lower fuel injector durations are the result, this is based off of manifold pressure and rpm values. As the engine begins rev higher (throttle opening) the relative pressure across the injector decreases as the manifold pressure get higher (closer to atomoshperic), then ECU adjusts the injector duration based on the known pressure differnce (remember, the pressure in the fuel rail is constant based on atmospheric {which is monitored by the ECU}) so the relative pressure differnece is known to the ECU. We Guzzisiti do not have that option, at least on the older models V11's etc. Any questions? Please no spelling corrections. I have had to much GOOD liquer and am going to bed now.

I think I would try another brand at this point.

Very interesting. Reminds me of those fuses with LEDs built in. Vaseline does work well, I suggest it to customers for preventive battery maintence, but areas that have high ambient temps it can just melt and then drip away making a mess elsewhere. Areas like Arizona, Georgia, etc. I use dielectric grease on other contacts, marketed as Yamaha Brake Caliper Grease (still makes me laugh) it is also is available at most auto stores in cheap little packets for spark plug boots. Its merit have been flogged elsewhere here.

#269 is in Kennesaw, GA

It would appear we are talking about what is known as the "stall" speed of the motor. DC motors are effectively shorted through the winding in the rotor when they are not rotating, at this time the current draw is very high but the motor is also capable of creating the largest amount of torque. As the rotor starts to rotate (current flow create a magnetic field in the rotor which causes it to move in relation to the magnets in the housing) the brushes begin to contact another winding inside the rotor. As the speed of the rotor increases the "effective" resistance also increases (more windings) this lowers the current flow, which also lower the torque until the motor reaches its "no load speed", which is when the torque it prodcues is only enough to maintain it speed. For the math junkies http://lancet.mit.edu/motors/motors3.html Or am I misunderstanding the question. perhaps this is an better answer http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/strtctr.pdf

Oops. The other clamps they sell are measured in 64th's, and I failed to notice the change. I thought they were 25/64th's. Sorry about that.

These maybe?? http://www.mcmaster.com/#5462k56/=6qsm2c

Sorry Jaap, no luck. While we have plenty of clamps in those sizes they are all treated, not stainless. Black, green, zinc, even some that I think might be an odd shade of yellow, but nothing pretty or shiny.

Give me some dimensions (circumfrence and/or diameter and clamp band width), I am not about to pull mine just to measure. I will check with our Watercraft and Marine division parts guys, lots of stainless stuff there and most should be available at worldwide dealers.

Wow. This whole tread is just amazing. I spend most of my time teaching technicians who can not read a schematic, even though they should. But here we have indivduals who not only read schematics, but also draw their own troubleshooting charts and keep a copy on the bike!! Fantastic. My students need to start riding Guzzi, that will teach them. Hats off to Cal and Roy and Raz. Also others if I forgot to mention you. You work is appricated by many even though few say thanks.

Tank suck is easy to check, ride around the block until it dies. Open the filler cap. If the tank jumps and the previously mentioned 15 year old is sucked in, in his entirety, then you have a tank venting problem. No jump and inhaled minors then not a tank suck problem, wait and try something else. Vapor locking should only occur after riding and then parking, then restarting; due to heat soak. Eliminate the tank implosion problem first, it is easy solve - just ride with the cap open. But no wheelies, soaks your man berries with fuel. NOT GOOD.

I also have toyed with the idea, but the overall weight of the bombs finally made me say no.