emry

I apologize, you are quite right. The problematic part is when the fork axis and the steering axis are no longer on the same plane. The definition for rake is rather old, forks and steering stems were always parallel, no issue. By definition changing the angle of the fork does not change the steering axis angle 'rake', as long as the vertical height of the steering head is constant. To be honest the jury still seems to be out on what and how (modern) rake should be calculated. Some consider the steering axis angle plus the fork axis (such as most custom chopper makers) or a variable of the two as effective or overall rake, some still say ignore it. In reality it boils down to the unknown of slip angle, camber angle, steering rotation (steering drop), and the transistion between normal and 'counter steering'. Effects of riding - a bump in the road or a dip how that relates to tire size plus changes of COG. Altering the fork axis relative to the steering axis has noticable effects on how a motorcycle behaves even when its trail is keep constant, I have to side with the custom chopper folks at this point (It might not be technically accurate, but it does a better job of mathmatically evaluating how a motorcycle will steer). But I am still waiting for a clear explaination of the forces and changes due to this 'misalignment'. When this is done right some very desirable handling characteristics can be achived without some of the short comings of the twitchy red frame demons...... sorry I just had too. Find me a demon Ratch... Sorry if I have caused any confusion folks.

Some change the rake with the clamps as Greg states. Changing rake on the clamps has a greater affect on trail than just altering the rake alone. Remeber trial is the difference between the point that the steering axis and the tires contact patch meet the ground. In racing changing the offset was a early solution to the increased rear ride height needed to get correct squat during acceleration. This also benefited of decreasing the rake, but often decreased trail to an unacceptable level, reducing the offset of the fork would remedy that. Some motorcycles already have a very good squat angle, raising the rear ride height can disturb this, adjustable rake & offset triple clamps can allow you to decrease the rake of the forks but still keep the trail accpetable, this quickens the initial steering input but will still maintain a acceptable amount of stability.

Itis routine in racing circles. Offset bearings are even available.

While I have no input on tire sizing, take-offs I do. Take-Offs are great if you know and trust who our are dealing with. Note: most race compunds will never make a good street tire, longevity stinks. There is a big difference between 12 sprint laps and and "several" practice sessions. Heat cycles being the main issue. "Of course they were always keep on warmers...." Only buy take-offs from someone you know, trust, or can beat up (and I mean really give a shit kicking too). Just because there is still tread left does not mean it is worth anything (they are selling them for a reason right??).

Well, I do not know if this helps the topic or not... I can't be bothered to actually read all of the nonsense to be able to tell. http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/RakeEx/RakeEx.htm He has written a decent book and some of the articles are available. Also has some good freeware. Perhaps this can help someone somehow. Exocisms??? Or frame mutilations??? Hmmm.... But as a note I just measured the geometry of my R6 (I have added a steering damper since my last post, goin back to Barber in Oct!!!) Rake = 22.7deg and Trail = 97mm - OEM was Rake =24 deg and Trail = 94. No I am not going to measure my Scura. Sorry.

This little guy is the problem. Hmmm. Nemo... I miss his nonsense, as good as Ratch's but I could stand to read it all.

Yes. If you think even one manufactor (moto's or dampers) thinks that taking your hands off of the bars (even just one) is an acceptable idea (at speed) you are out of your head. But since you have untold amount of time to prowl and call supply me with a reference; name, number and company of such. By the way, if you check with your local legal advisor they may indicate that is actually law breaking to ride "while not in complete control".

A true greybeard would have just made himself a new line and be done with it. Two ends and some Aeroquip isn't that hard to come bye.

I can't turn unless I'm going at least a hundred with mine at max. Shit, U-turns in a parking lot are a 10 point affair at that point, I fell like i'm driving my F350. As for tedious, I don't get paid to post here, I have to earn a living and wash dishes and take an shower every day or so. Let the reader figure who does what. Maybe we all need a steering damper like the 09 Yamaha R1 has, off at low speeds and on at high speeds.... Hmmm.... As guzzi owners we hack on all kinds of stuff so why not that??? Ratch. You adjust you damper on the road???? While riding? You have totally lost me here. Please stay in the NW, you are dangerous. (I care nothing about accident statistics.) Your opinions can get overwhelming on this site due to their frequency and length, but you need to spend less time typing and a little more time researching. Riding experience is no more than just opinion. Accuracy of line???? Damn. People read this you know. P.S. Links to YouTube are just as bad Wiki, which you normally lambast.

Wow ratch... you've been saving up for that one... I don't have then energy to either read or rebute. My observations. My Scura has one, but I keep it set on full soft, I really don't think it needs it. My 03 R6 track bike w/ an R1 front end needs one but doesn't have one, (I get some nice shake at a few turns at Barber). I found tank slappers are easy to fix, give it more gas and relax - this helps to unload front tire and take unnecesssary rider inputs out of the equation. Typical riders chop the throttle and grap the bars with all of their might when the bike begins to oscillate, this causes weight to transfer and loads front more which just makes the situation worse. The rider is also now helping transfer engery from the bars back into the bike. The second video was caused by rear wheel spin, he even points it out. Perhaps better throttle control would have helped more. I'll take a little wobble over a highside anyday. The last video looked like a recent model GSXR - OEM steering damper. Looked like it was a rider malfunction. No it is not, try keeping your hands on the bars, that is normal.

Ride the darn thing. Once the valve guide wear gets bad enough to worry about it wont run anymore. Self-diagnostic. Most likely just sludge in the airbox.

Plug wire to short? A little flex and tug off it goes. Longer wire. Else just replace the cap. Perhaps the clip is beyond beyond. Hole through the plug core ????? ????? ?????? Send that to the Smithsonian - that would be a first.

Caution!!! Langauge expressions following!! Sorry Japp ... The vodka is just right tonight. Temp sensor solution found!!! I just wet my @#$$#! and wave it in the wind and then adjust the potentiometer I have mounted to my seat which is wired to the orginal OE sensor. This way as I ride, if my @#$$#! gets cold, I just pinch my ass checks and that alters the fuel mixture. If my @#$$#! get hot I just fart. Nudity is best when enjoyed with a good clean running cycle. Sorry. I will now leave this thread alone. PS. Thanks for the symbol edit.

Isn't the newer MM ECU the DSP versions??? I am fairly certian that this is the ECU package that several WSBK team are using. I would be really surprised if our 1.5's fit in that catagory even if it is flashable. But MyECU can handle ignition timng, check the MyECU thread in the "How To" section here. The thread is long but much is questioned and covered. MyECU is quite simple and very adequte for our bikes simple needs.

I used Rustoleum texture paint back in 2002 and it it still looks good. This was covered in a thread way back when, but a search didn't turn it up. I was unhappy with the Hardley Ableson paint that I purchased so I sought other alternatives. Could it be the $6 Walmart paint, perhaps... The price was fairly cheap. The texture was a "little" different than orginal, but it took a close examination to tell. It has held up excellantly under riding conditions so far, 7 years later it still looks good and far better than the shit Guzzi used. To remove the ex Guzzi paint - Carb Cleaner, yes the spray can nasty stuff, the orginal paint wipes right off with a rag. Plan on using several rags and tossing them though.

Actually it is used to maintain a pressure differential across the injector. Total fuel flow through the injector is based on the pressure difference between the manifold and the fuel rail. Fuel mapping is set once the design (vented or mainfold based) and takes this into account. Models (most inline 4) use the manifold as a reference, twins and singles normally use baro. Due to pulses as mentioned before. If you mapping is set for Baro - don't change it. Like wise for manifold based. The effects are normally felt below 1/4 throttle. (For you butt dyno folks ) I'll let you folks debate as to why. Have fun.

Your first pick show some fuel staining on the lower trans from the TB shaft, the second pick it looks wet. Your not riding with an active fuel leak are you?? I would suck to ignite a fresh paint job.

Why don't we just drill a hole through the brass holder thus venting it to the atmosphere?? (yes, the outside atmosphere, not the inside one....) That way the sensor will heat up from radiated heat but then the extra heat can just vent out. What a simple solution. I'm surprised after 54 pages no one has tried it yet. Try that guys and you should get at least 10 more pages out this dead horse.

It is because of responses like the previous two from Motomonster that I even still try to follow this thread. 10 minutes later I am still laughing.

90mph, why would the OE sensor get hot during a 90mph run, there is plenty of air cooling going on. Once again some real data would be nice. Let the darn thing sit and idle for 30min like you are sitting in traffic, Then see what it does. Extended stop are not stop lights, unless you moved to the Atlanta, GA area, we have a few that last 3 minutes!!!

Yamaha V-star 950, 1700, and 1900's. Suzuki C90's for example. MM1.5 is not a primitve ECU. It was used in a primitive manor with poorly developed mapping. It is more than capable of doing the required calculations. Ducati 900's have used the MM1.5 with fairly good success. MAP sensors are used as a primary sensor to determine initial fuel injector duration along with rpm. MAP sensors are used to determine air flow into the engine while the ECU is operating in D-Jetronic mode. Temp sensors are used to modify the initial value for engine operating temp. During rapid throttle movements or above about 1/2 throttle angle opening all powersports manufactures ECU's will switch to a Alpha-n fueling mode, TP sensor & rpm based lookup with temp modification. Our ECU's are always in Alpha-N. Temperature is always important to an engines fuel calculations because engine temperature is directly linked to combustion, intake and mechancial efficiency, this can be very important for emissions reasons, not to mention cold starts. And yes more heat sensed means leaner because the map sucks. The sensor could work fine if the ECU was mapped correctly. But we could replace the sensor and leave the map alone. Ratchet's approach - (but he didn't have a problem) As for apples to oranges. Engines are engines are engines. They all do the same thing. Burn something, heat some air to expand it, push something to make something else go round and round. Weeee we have an engine.

Add Yamaha, Suzuki, and Victory to your list. Im sure there are others. These are just the few that have come to mind. You missed my post back on page 11!!! Just like I missed yours!!! This thread has gotten silly.

Lets be sure and post our findings on all of the other brand's forums. Just to let them know all of their engineers have been incorrectly specing sensors also. What if we just swap our air temp sensor and head "whatever" sensors around??? Maybe they just got them mixed up on the ass line like the seat spring / choke spring.

We have the 10% ethanol here in the Atlanta, GA area and I have not had a problem yet with my 02.

Let me just get this straight. 1st a sensor designed to be submerged in a liquid was used to measure the heated air temp of a solid mass in and enclosed space. 2nd a sensor designed to be submerged in a liquid was was used to measure the temp of a solid mass that heats a liquid in contact between the mass and sensor. 3rd a sensor designed to measure a moving gases temp was used to measure the temp of heated air of a solid mass in an enclosed space. 4th What is the problem? Bad mapping or the wrong spec sensor or both. Are we fixing the sickness, the symptoms, or the reaction to bad medication? WTF. Has anyone mentioned that the damn lookup chart was written in Italy. Guzzi does NO testing outside its local region and the sensor they had avail worked so they adjusted the table to suit. Extreme temp riders be damned. You'll figure it out, you always have. Now we are trying to fix a sensor that isn't broke (but the holder is cause I touched it), cause the table is screwed up. Huh?? Ratch is on the right track with adding the resistance to the sensor to at least alleviate a lean running condition, but he has a Power Commander. What the hell is that for then? Wallet lightening? Doesn't the heat sink just drop the temp of the sensor??? Like adding more resistance... (Same result as far as the ECU knows.) Couldn't the wonder knob do that. Even the udders couldn't keep me away, this thread is like crack - so bad but sooo.... good.... Pete, HELP ME - send me some Yak fat to lube my square wheel bearings with. They spin. That cant be right. Greg, HELP ME - my 50k worth of stock is still worth 15k... Ratch, HELP ME - write a post I can read before I age... Emry, HELP ME - - - - I've tried, there is no help for you.