emry

Excellent redesign. Your English is better than mine, and that is all I have ever known.

After that image i will not do a head vs sensor vs 4 gas ega reading and post its video record on Youtube. I won't be able to eat cereal for a month. This thread be banned....

Go talk to some guys that run an alcohol dragster, they should be able to quickly get you straightened out about the need conversions. As for clogging the fuel filters, I recall melting just about anything plastic or swelling rubber, that would then clog the filter, leak or pass so little fuel as to be useless. Plastic filters would just melt into a shrived ball.

But missiles are much much much much KOOLER!!! Thats why we have EFI on a 1950's AL lump in the first place right? Not that I want to cut this short of 40 pages, (sorry Greg, I didn't invest) how about a simple experiment Ratch. Measure the divided voltage of the sensor and the actual head temp at the same time. That way you can actually post some thermal inertia data that would make everyone happy. Then you could scientifically decide if you needed MORE mass or less MASS to the newly spec'ed sensor. (What if the head actually cools faster than the sensor!!!! OH DEFICATION!!!) Less mass and no plastic or brass holder. Wait, mine is made out of copper. OH DEFICATION!!, what do i do? Elmer's Paste in the gap? I'm so confused but I refuse to re-read GIGABYTES of speculation. Sorry, I have to work. Oh yeah, from the divided voltage you can calculate the other half of the resistor in the ECU. But only if you study Ohm's law really hard!!! For those who just want to know. Ratch, I am glad you are attempting to at least spec out a sensor that would do the job the Italian's wanted it to do in the first place. I may rub you once and awhile but it is all in good fun. I'll just thank Cliff for making a simple ECU that I can do what I want with. Like correct the poor engine mapping temp corrections. I MADE 34!!! YES!!!! Had to edit that in....

Why not buck up for some Ti bolts. Those are also readily available for Duc's.

I don't want to bum you out Greg, but maybe these gents already have the patent. Turns out my "Dial-a-Knob" was too close to other products and I was hit with a "infringement" lawsuit.

**SPECULATION** I do not have a O2 equipped Guzzi to verify this. Most motorcycles will operate in closed loop during idle, and constant throttle (cruising) conditions only. The A/F mix is adjusted in real time with NO data stored for future use. (In other words no short or long term trims, for those of you familiar with that.) Normally when an O2 sensor is unplugged or left to hang, it will send a lean signal (low voltage) to the ECU the ECU compensates until a certain cut off point by richening the A/F mix. Once this point is reached one of two things happen. 1. The ECU ignores the O2 sensor and stays in OPEN loop & turns on the Check engine light and stores a code. 2. The ECU ignores the O2 sensor and stays in OPEN loop. When the ECU switches back to open loop due to this type of failure it will continue to run in open loop until the next time the bike is turned off and restarted. Then the process is repeated. Personally I would just remove the O2 sensor. Your fuel mileage may suffer a little depending on your riding habits though. But you didn't buy a Guzzi for good economy did you?

Good luck Jim, I think the only limp home mode our ECU's have is the one that you use after you crash.

$235 a year Full Coverage with a $500 Deduc, but I am not sure about the limits. Multi-line discount through State Farm. The 70 Ambassador is $110 a year for only collision.

I have about 13k miles on the orginal stock single plate. I did pull the trans, check for cracks and retorque the mounting bolts early in its life thou. how much longer will it last. Time will tell.

Just another two cents here. I have read about who spec'ed what and why and when. They (engineers, particually at small companies) spec from what is available. They get a catalog and look in it and point their finger and say that will work, order up!!! It is in all aspects a COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. Not an oil temp sensor or head temp sensor. Thanks for pointing this out Dan and summerizing. So they bodged it to work and took a imperfect reading sensor and mapped the bike accordingly. Great two problems. Hats of to Ratch for creating a cheap PowerCommander. But since we are all so zealous about this why don't we spec out our own sensor?? Our engines are simple and the FI system is just as simple. The conditions (locations, temps, humidity, etc..) that our bikes can run into make for many situations that our bikes don't run well in. So the map is to lean, compress your pressure reg to add more preload to the spring and bump up the fuel presure. Well great it is fine at 3/4+ throttle you say, but what about idle. Advance your TPS. Oh no not more timing!! Slot your timing reluctor and retard it. Oh ackk. This is like work. LOL!!!!

Bad rear bulb or connection. This is a simple paralell circuit, when one path goes open, the circuits resistance increases to the point that bi-metallic flasher will not heat up, thus no blinky blinky.

Why not just put a big'ol stereo knob up on that upper clamp and do away with the dang oil/head/hot air non-maybe-some-fillerup-air gap brass but shouda been some kinda plasticy something or other. Then you could just dial away all the running troubles. Weeeee!!!! Volume up!!! Maybe i'll market it and call it "Dial-a-Knob" Maybe I can cash out before Dial-a-Jet sues me. I bet if all the silly banter continues we can beat that elastomer / hysteresis - hysterious(look that up in the urban dicitionary) drilling thread. We are almost there. We can out think the Italians.

Since you guys are getting into the excel stuff, here is a file I use to compare my changes. Cut and paste your original and current map, then you can see the percent of change and also a graph, with injector durations at 20deg & 40deg. Feel free to use it, add to it, distort, twist or maim at your leisure. I just zipped the xls file. compare.zip

I just thought I would add these pics. Who ever is better able to determine a proper outcome, cheers. As a note I run a "homemade" brass sensor holder. Pic #1 Cylinder Head Temp on a Yamaha XV1900. Pic #2 Cylinder Head Temp sensor is on the left as compared to a standard Coolant Temp sensor from a water cooled model.

Kadavere, I was having similar running problem to yours. The maps I was running were just too lean. So I richened up large portions of my map and the difference was significant. While I have not spent very much time tuning this map it has given me a very startable and rideable map. I am fairly certain that you running issuses are map related and not MyP8 related. Have you measured the stock P8 injector durations with a scope and manually translated them to the MyECU??

http://www.microsquirt.info/ This is derivative of the "megasquirt" line of ECU's. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html Much more info available.

I must of missed this, could you link it please.

I found Cliffs post a little confusing too. TDC?? Which one compression or overlap? If we back up from either of the TDC's 300 degrees we end up in the middle of our power stroke (too early) or the middle of our intake stroke (too late). Neither would be a good time to inject. Lubho - I agree. Lubho - The chart is a simple valve lift vs crank angle chart, and it shows two complete cycles. The cam specs are not radical, in fact they are quite close to the x3 cam for our bikes from megacycle. Just in case- Camshaft timing info. Perhaps this picture would help instead. It is from the above article.

For those of use that are verbally challenged. NOTE: timing and cam specs are not from our engines!!!!

TDC Intake is the beginning of the intake event, our exhaust is also open so we all commonly refer to this as overlap. Our 525 should be the number of crank degrees after that event that the injector begins its injection duration. At 525 after TDC intake( or TDC exhaust, your call) we are just beginning our exhaust stroke. This is when most FI systems inject. Further reading of the above article explains, read the last few paragraphs. http://resources.metapress.com/pdf-preview...mp;size=largest

It is a shame that simple combustion theory can so easily be snowballed into a money making venture. Add phrases like "plasma tunnel" and an inaccuate combustion pressure graph and we'll make millions!!! Complete crap, use Denso or NGK. OEM's like them for a reason.

Theoritically the pleat on the gauze filters do nothing more than hold the oil, the oil is what captures the dirt and it does have to get very dirty for it to be visually noticeable. The current manufacturer that I work for still uses oiled foam filters on their Outdoor units, talk about dirt build up. Paper filters have been suggested as a solution to lack of owner mantainence, but the factory still maintains that the oil foam is preferable, mainly due to lifespan. While workng for a race team in the late 90's we were sponsored by a up and coming air filter manufacturer, they currently sell foam and gauze. After several weeks of testing them it was decided that the OEM paper worked better, not only for power but also filtration. In our case the sprint races were short enough not to be bothered by the build up in the paper filter, if we were entering the Baja 500 that may have been another matter. So we run the OEM and wear the stickers. So yes Greg, most of that dirt did go into your engine. Particually if it happened to be any left over volcanic ash. I had a road trip that was delayed due to a blocked paper filter in a car. So we ran it without a filter!!! At least it got us where we needed to be. I never measured for engine wear though... Hmmmm...

Also remember that paper maintence is replace, foam or gauze is clean an re-oil. While paper can filter to a smaller micron level it will quickly clog and then flow substanstially less than a comparable foam or gauze. Foam or gauze will flow a lower volume of air intially but will remain fairly consistant until a saturation point is reached, then it will pass air and dirt. To be honest the filter maintence of most aftermarket foam or gauze filters is very optimstic. Many should be cleaned and re-oil at far greater intervals than is recomended. In reailty is works out though because generally something else wears out or breaks before we suffer a failure due to dirt ingestion, on street motorcycles at least. (Some locales may vary) So run the paper with the box, or run pods with the gauze. Either way if you service them regularly you should be alright. As for the power issue. Tuned length intakes are very well documented here and in other locations and have been in effective use since WWII. Do a little web seaching and figure out what works best for what you like.

textile. key. and so far I am quite happy with the conti attacks I have gotten, they have about 1000 miles so far and seem to work quite well.