68C

Probably not relevant but check the fuel injecter linkage on the left side does not foul the rear suspension remote reservoir. On my second ride I gave it full throttle, then rolled off the throttle it would not shut off, going faster and faster I thought 'CLUTCH no may blow the motor, FRONT BRAKE no will probably lock up and crash... then my scared mind suggested KILL SWITCH! First time I have used one in anger and it saved me. Yes, the white adjuster knob was hung up on the reservoir union. Slid the reservoir back half an inch and all well.

50k in 23 years is hardly high mileage. Will have spent a lot of time parked up. Check fuel tank for ethanol damage, rear drive train especially the universal joint if not well maintained. Age related stuff, the starter motor magnets can come loose if motor corrodes internally. .

She did'nt need to, she had enough Guzzi lovers in her nation.

Farewell our beloved Queen, God save the King.

Yes, second that clearance issue. On my first ride on the new to me V11, I pulled onto the main road and nailed it, great fun. At about seventy I rolled back the throttle....and it just kept on accelerating. My first stupid thought was to brake, probably not a good idea, visions of an exploding engine stopped me pulling in the clutch. Finally my little brain thought of the kill switch, never used one in anger before but it saved the day. To think I used to bypass those on some of my earlier bikes. Yes, the white knob had hooked around the reservoir cap, shame Guzzi never fitted a proper two way pull throttle cable setup.

Those side outlet exhaust pipes do look vulnerable. I see the V Twin layout as a way of having improved balance to control vibrations and give good air cooling. Perhaps modern parallel twins and triples with balance shafts and liquid cooling are the best layout now. All academic soon as the discussion will centre around where to put the battery - will it need to be quickly removable as a 'swop' refill. Motor in the wheel, simple but high unsprung weight. Conventional brakes or some form of electric retarder with regen.

How dreadful? As bad as having more than one Apple product, wearing Levi Jeans despite their markup, buying coffee from a cafe that writes your name on the cardboard cup, joining a one make bike club - do you dump those people if you change your bike? Yeah it can get even more dreadful.

Thanks for all the encouragement, stuck within this body so just have to make the best of it. At least it is wet and cold outside so not missing much I suppose.

I am now at day fifteen after a left knee replacement due to arthritis, once healed expect to get the other one done. I am starting to get dark thoughts about my ability to continue to ride the V11 once fully healed in perhaps a year to eighteen months time. How have others got on with this one, I will admit I was becoming nervous riding the bike in the last few months before surgery due to worry my arthritic knee may collapse at any time as the V11 is a little wide and top heavy. I am 69, reasonably fit and do like to ride.

Remember the first time I ducked down behind the fairing while going fast. It was all so quiet and strangely dreamlike, not real. Then I imagined the broken leg would feel very real if I did not concentrate.

It is the charging circuit I am more interested in, being able to raise the voltage so the admittedly small battery can be properly charged. Of course, unlike my motorhome when on electric hook-up, the bike alternator does not run for hour after hour so we perhaps need to not concern ourselves too much with ensuring we have a full multi level charge profile with protection to ensure no fluid loss/excessive gassing but would like to ensure battery does fully charge. I am being careful not to quote any specific charge voltages here as depends on ambient temperature and cell type. I suggested the DD-DC converter to protect the ECU and any other sensitive equipment that may be connected such as GPS, LED lighting.

My motorhome has a solar panel which outputs from 0 to 18volts depending on sunshine. The Maximum Power Point Tracker (MPPT) controller drops the voltage to a safe battery charge level, then converts the excess power to raise the amperage. As the sunshine varies it tries to keep the charge voltage constant while altering the amperage. Like most battery chargers it also senses battery voltage for the relevant bulk, absorb and float requirements. I imagine the voltage regulator fitted to our bikes does something similar however it will not raise the voltage to the commonly required 14.4volts to fully charge a battery. I assume this is because everything else on the bike is happier at a slightly lower voltage. The DC-DC converter takes in any DC voltage and converts it to the required DC voltage, lets say 13volts for arguments sake. So by using an MPPT controller we can take the raw frequency and voltage wild output from the alternator, rectify it and apply it to the MPPT controller to facilitate battery charging with a sophisticated charge routine, then apply a constant smooth voltage to the DC circuits through the DC-DC converter. I wonder if anyone else has done this, these are not that dear and can handle 20Amps or more easily.

Some live in cold areas, some live in hot. Some open the throttle, some do not.

Come off it docc, diaphragm? That's not even a real carb. God invented the flat slide for a reason

Yes, not perfect but real. Over the last week we have heard so many stories about him, yours adds to it. They say Democracy is not perfect but the other systems are worse, perhaps the same could be said of Monarchy.