68C

Is that a hammer handle behind the mug?

You could take the circuit board out of the box and mount in a smaller container, perhaps run a flexible loom out and use computer sealed connecters to couple up to the loom. You don't need all the pins.

Finally got round to Googling Triskaidekaphobic, certainly was not any of the ideas I thought of. My best guess was it may be a Native American name for a local village! Hope you all have fun on the 13/14th get together.

Bacon Slicer where I live. 'Baloney' being rubbish or nonsense here although I believe an Italian sausage over the water. "Separated by a common language!"

Spoken like a true Yorkshireman.

Only ever one hi side, chasing my mate out of a roundabout. I remember that out of body feeling when I thought I could control it followed by the impact on the road on my left shoulder which informed me it had already all happened, that it was a flashback memory and that is was too late to do anything as I was now flat out in the road. Then came the desire to get me and the bike away away from the scene, too many years in my youth of not having all the documetaion, insurance etc. Do not like hi sides, all too quick. Also the only time I needed an ambulance, police turned up also. About two months later I found a 'producer' (must show documents in the next week to local cop shop) in my jacket pocket, I must have been too shook up to remember them issueing it, funnily enough they never chased it up.

I thought aircooled engines run hotter than water cooled sp we should be carefull using cheap oil. Perhaps a 'turbo ' engine car oil OK. I agree we do not have wet clutches so friction modifiers should make no difference.

I have edited my first post to acknowledge Troutman found this excellent site, not me.

Their life will change in so many ways now they know the forum is here.

That http://www.cycle-ergo.com website is brilliant, great find by Troutman. Even has the V11 listed.

Looks like one to me. The clever part is how they seal, it does not really seal around the shank of the bolt so does not matter if on the threaded portion. Any leak will pressurise the seal outwards/radially this will make it thicker and so press tighter on the flange and the underside of the bolt head. The higher the oil pressure, the tighter the sealing action. Obviously the flange needs to be flat.

Looks like a bonded seal washer would help here, you know, a washer with an o'ring bonded inside it. Also known as a Dowty Seal.

My driveshaft metal shroud has cracked, it is the part that is welded to the shaft and and sits over the sliding spline, it rotates with the shaft. It is still attached by a part of the weld but won't last much longer. Should I just get it welded back or remove it. Is there any rubber sleeve mod? It does not seem to affect the bike, just noticed it the other day.

I could not get in until I followed the second email.

Two strokes of that and.....Oh dear.

OK, got there in the end. Simple once you know how, Editted out my 'how to', See further down the thread.

Tried to join up, it asks for a 'coupon code'?

I have never seen these K-Liners before, very interesting, I like the idea of not disturbing the old valve guide. Do they work OK with bronze valve guides?

Cosmetically challenged.

Slightly off topic, I confess to getting somewhat confused with the differences between Dot 4, 5 and 5.1 brake fluids. As I understand it Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 are both glycol based and can be mixed whereas Dot 5 is a silicon fluid which cannot. Why on earth did they choose the Dot 5.1 classification, surely Dot 4.1 would have been better avoiding any confusion with the Dot 5 silicon fluid. Like you Motowfo, I use silicon Dot 5 fluid, I merely mentioned the Norton IoM teams experience as an anecdote. Perhaps I'll just have a few pints of Ringwood Best then pee in the reservoir and used an alcohol based fluid.

That square seal is interesting in that it allows our disc brakes to work. On applying the brake the square seal distorts allowing the slave piston to move far enough to press the pad onto the disc, when you release the brake the distorted square seal pulls the piston back a little to free the brake. The piston only slides through the square seal on initial assembly or to automatically take up pad wear. The clutch slave cylinder travel is greater the piston does slide through the square seal and consequently the seal wears quicker. It does not need to be square seal, although usually is, as the spring inside the clutch slave cylinder does the returning action of the piston. I remember talking to the Norton team at the '91 IOM TT, they said they did not like using silicon brake fluid on their race bikes as it was too slippery and compromised the returning action of the square seal which caused a slight dragging of the brakes. They suggested silicon fluid was only used to stop owners damaging their paintwork with spillage and to help when owners did not change the normal fluid regularly. Http://Www.ucx.com/documents/squareseal.pdf.

Don't grizzlies eat moths, it's just I can see one standing up in the distance.

Good paint this, gives a great finish with a brush and dries quickly, I use it on trailer wheels etc. The only problem is it needs their special thinners/brush cleaner although I have used lacquer thinner. Normal thinners or brush cleaner will not work. Their data sheet lists the thinners: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/files/2017/02/HM_GB_EN_BRUSH_CLEANER___THINNERS.pdf

I think the lower black parts look great.

Good find but at that price I would be looking at a Guzzi with another fifteen years of development.