68C

I phoned MCS Engineering this morning. He is aware there is interest in these alloy tanks and has replied to a few people through the info@mcs-engineering.co.uk email address. He was a pleasant chap to talk to but did point out "Those folk over the pond seem to think I have tanks ready on the shelf I don't, we build tanks to order". As a small company they build bespoke tanks for many bikes, cars etc. There is around three months waiting time. He said it is difficult for him to make a tank without having the bike with him as there seem to be differences between frames and what fits under the tank. He did say he was considering buying a frame as a worktool. Perhaps someone near him could help with that. I did not discuss price of the tanks. He asked if we are a club, I explained it is a web based forum covering the V11. Perhaps someone with more knowledge of V11lemans.com could contact him, you may be able to arrange a group deal. I expect the price of a tank would be too high for me.

Have you tried the company email, I picked it off there website, www.mcs-engineering.co.uk info@mcs-engineering.co.uk Website has a dash between mcs and engineering, not sure if that is 'legal' character for emails.

I once spent hours trying to bleed a brake, turned out the seal was stuck to the piston after I had pushed it back to fit new pads. The piston could not slide through the seal to take up the adjustment. Instead it just moved back and forth as I pumped the lever, as it returned back it left a gap between the pad and the disc so when I pulled the lever it only moved up to touch the disc then when I released the lever the seal pulled the piston back again. You could actually see the piston and pad moving to and fro. I had some braking and a very spongy lever which felt like air but was just the piston taking up the gap. Of course don't forget there should be a little retraction of the piston just not so much as I had.

Ref your drawing update, sadly you have now deleted the vertical line from the new red blob to the LH coil, so now no feed to the LH coil. Still, it would stop it smoking. After every post I make I keep seeing miss-prints and errors, funny I don't see them at first so usually end up doing several edits within a few minutes of posting. Must be all those aluminium saucepans my mum used.

Good diagram, although I suggest there should be a red 'blob' where the middle line coming down from the LH coil crosses the the top left to right line (R/N). I think the only way the coil will burn is if the line from a coil to the ecu shorts out. Line VE/N or V/E. If it was a fault within the ECU it would burn out before the coil would.

Not sure if this should be in this thread, some of the above posts refer to 'speed-bleed' brake bleed nipples. If they are the type with a sprung loaded valve inside them perhaps you should reconsider using them. This evening I spent several hours overhauling a set of Brembo calipers, two of the speed bleeders had been sheared off. No problem I thought just drill them through and use a left hand easy-out to extract them. Of course I then found the central sprung loaded valve is made of a very hard steel, it was impossible to drill them centrally. The only way I can to see to get them out is spark erosion, no longer available to me since retiring! I think the main problem is the side walls of the nipples are thinner to allow room for the central piston making it easier to shear them off if stuck. So, I suggest you remove the speed-bleeders while you can before they seize up.

Is that a hammer handle behind the mug?

You could take the circuit board out of the box and mount in a smaller container, perhaps run a flexible loom out and use computer sealed connecters to couple up to the loom. You don't need all the pins.

Finally got round to Googling Triskaidekaphobic, certainly was not any of the ideas I thought of. My best guess was it may be a Native American name for a local village! Hope you all have fun on the 13/14th get together.

Bacon Slicer where I live. 'Baloney' being rubbish or nonsense here although I believe an Italian sausage over the water. "Separated by a common language!"

Spoken like a true Yorkshireman.

Only ever one hi side, chasing my mate out of a roundabout. I remember that out of body feeling when I thought I could control it followed by the impact on the road on my left shoulder which informed me it had already all happened, that it was a flashback memory and that is was too late to do anything as I was now flat out in the road. Then came the desire to get me and the bike away away from the scene, too many years in my youth of not having all the documetaion, insurance etc. Do not like hi sides, all too quick. Also the only time I needed an ambulance, police turned up also. About two months later I found a 'producer' (must show documents in the next week to local cop shop) in my jacket pocket, I must have been too shook up to remember them issueing it, funnily enough they never chased it up.

I thought aircooled engines run hotter than water cooled sp we should be carefull using cheap oil. Perhaps a 'turbo ' engine car oil OK. I agree we do not have wet clutches so friction modifiers should make no difference.

I have edited my first post to acknowledge Troutman found this excellent site, not me.

Their life will change in so many ways now they know the forum is here.

That http://www.cycle-ergo.com website is brilliant, great find by Troutman. Even has the V11 listed.

Looks like one to me. The clever part is how they seal, it does not really seal around the shank of the bolt so does not matter if on the threaded portion. Any leak will pressurise the seal outwards/radially this will make it thicker and so press tighter on the flange and the underside of the bolt head. The higher the oil pressure, the tighter the sealing action. Obviously the flange needs to be flat.

Looks like a bonded seal washer would help here, you know, a washer with an o'ring bonded inside it. Also known as a Dowty Seal.

My driveshaft metal shroud has cracked, it is the part that is welded to the shaft and and sits over the sliding spline, it rotates with the shaft. It is still attached by a part of the weld but won't last much longer. Should I just get it welded back or remove it. Is there any rubber sleeve mod? It does not seem to affect the bike, just noticed it the other day.

I could not get in until I followed the second email.

Two strokes of that and.....Oh dear.

OK, got there in the end. Simple once you know how, Editted out my 'how to', See further down the thread.

Tried to join up, it asks for a 'coupon code'?

I have never seen these K-Liners before, very interesting, I like the idea of not disturbing the old valve guide. Do they work OK with bronze valve guides?

Cosmetically challenged.