68C

Er yes,..... of course I may have been looking the other way from the UK.

Please please keep reporting on this trip, I have only been Texas and Georgia on trips to Bell Helicopter and Gulfstream training courses. I have always fancied seeing the East coast, Oregon and California - or have I got my navigation all wrong? ANYWAYS, it would be fascinating to hear about your trip.

If all V11 fuel pressures are in that region I am surprised at the wide tolerance, could be up to 13% difference and still be in tolerance. I would have thought varying the fuel map by that much would be noticeable. That is unless I have screwed up my maths, + or - 0.2 is 0.4, divide by three is 0.133r, which I take to be 13%. So I guess the fuel pressure is not super critical or a narrower tolerance would have been specified.

So now it appears the accuracy of the regulator is important the next obvious question is should we check this pressure? I assume a simple 0-5 bar gauge tee'd into the pump output would do. Ah.... what pressure should it be, 3.5bar? And what tolerance should we accept, + or - 1% ?

That is rather what I thought, just wondered if we are wasting our time swapping maps on non Cat bikes.

Ha, thats nothing , next time you are in the UK check out Nora at the Lawnmower Museum. Remember, owning a Guzzi is all about accepting reality.

Somewhat off topic I know but I did'nt realise until I looked further today how relevant Miss Shilling is to a motorcycle forum. And she only lived twenty miles from me, how we live and learn. http://www3.hants.gov.uk/biographies/shilling.htmy

Thanks Kiwi Roy, I know gasses flowing through an orifice 'choke' once the flow goes supersonic and that the flow will remain constant even if the supply pressure increases. Gas turbine enthusiasts will know this idea is used to off load the engine during starting and idle I did not realise this also applies to fluids, makes sense now that the pressure is not that important. This should not be confused with Miss Shilling's Orifice.

Hi all, just a 'wondering about' question. As I understand it the fuel pump delivers a regulated steady fuel pressure and the ECU opens the injectors for the correct time in each cell of the fuel map to deliver the required quantity of fuel. This brings me to wonder how accurate the fuel regulator is, does varying temperature, battery/charge voltage affect it. If actual fuel pressute differs between bikes, how does this affect map sharing. This is just for interest, I don't suspect a fault on my bike and don't intend to fit any magic super regulator.

I agree it is nice to tidy things up. They used to say if you could remove a part and the bike still worked and was legal you did'nt need it. My pet hate is bikes that have nice covers to hide some ugly component under it. Why not design it pretty in the first place? Most Japanese bikes suffer from this, look at a stripped down Yamaha, loads of thin welded on brackets and gussets that collect crap, not the easiest bike to make 'sanitary'. I know they use a lot of generic parts but they could still be attractive.

Still don't understand why you want to remove this pipe. It was common to fit a LeMans Mk1 breather box to the 850T3 which let oil run back to the sump but allowed gasses to vent to atmosphere and not into the airbox, less chance of oil deposit build up on the inlet valve. The metal box was about 3" x 2" and sat between the carbs, it had an internal rubber flapper valve which ensured a low pressure in the crankcase, worked really well and lasted a long time. As the original airbox would not fit you then fitted K&N filters. I can understand if you want to reroute the pipe that goes goes to the airbox but not why you want to stop the oil running back to the sump. Of course, allowing the gasses to atmosphere has an enviromental effect which is why the OEM choose to burn them through the engine.

Always have a little chicken with you to watch the sky.

It is normal to fit motorcycle pistons through the bottom of the barrel as there is a machined taper at the bottom of the barrel to help the rings slide in.

Love the Tony Foale frame, never seen it before, I cetainly did not know he was so involved with Guzzi racers. I have a set of Tony Foale leading link forks that I believe were were for a T3 sidecar set up with the name proudly cast into the disc caliper mount arms. At the moment the lower section is fitted to my Triumph 900 outfit using homemade down tubes.

I feel like the man finding his way in a cave with a candle when in comes this guy with a generator backpack and a bunch of LED floodlights. Amazing.

Hi, Probably not that relevant but this may be of interest, not sure if the section at the bottom of the page is by the seller or CA Cycleworks, the manufacturer of the aftermarket part. Could not work out how to paste the ebay page using this android tablet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Throttle-Position-Censor-TPS-PF3C-Monster-SS-SS750-SS900-ST2-748R-/111784871752?hash=item1a06e5c748:g:tdwAAOSwsB9WCwF5

Yeah, You are right, I did'nt think about those domed Le Mans pistons.

I fitted 950cc barrels to my 850 T3, I used the original T3 heads, I also lightened the flywheel. I used the T3 carbs. Now the T3 heads with larger barrels would have raised the compression ratio a little and the lighter flywheels should have meant a little more acceleration, in truth after the several months it took to swap things around I cannot really say I noticed any real improvement. I reckon the LeMans mk1 heads on the T5 barrels should run perfectly, unless you also fit the larger LeMans carbs probably not much will change. A lot of people think the T5 was the best Guzzi, good spread of power unlike the V11 which seems to have less bottem to mid range (real world) power. They are also bullet proof, the T5 will survive a crash better than the V11.

Just tinkering. I have enjoyed seeing how things changed with the MyEcu running closed loop, although I never did get the MyEcu to run any better than the WM15M, it has been an interesting learning experience. I have been using the Guzzidiag software with a spare ex Ducati WM15M that I load my changes into, I have fitted an LC1 with an AFR gauge to see what I get at various settings. I now understand I can set either Ecu to run at whatever Air Fuel Ratio I want....the problem is I don't really know what that AFR should be for max efficiency. Also I am unsure what I mean by max efficiency, best fuel consumption or max power? Every engine is different, every day you ride is different, temp, air pressure etc. I am beginning to think closed loop is not suitable for a motorcycle as we rarely ride at a constant throttle, at least not in England. It is just fun for me, when I want to go any distance I use the WM15M with the stock map. Thanks for the advice, I now know I cannot reprogram the 15M to a 15RC.

I was hoping to use a wideband controller with an LC1. I have been using the MyEcu, it works Ok just wondering if I could get the OEM Ecu to work in a similar way. The truth is I have never had full confidence in the hardware that I built, I always take the original Ecu with me.

Is it possible to reprogram the WM15M ECU as a WM15RC and so be able to use an O2 sensor? I have a 2003/2004 V11 which has the correct wiring loom to accept the sensor.

I had the same leak, although it ran out to the right. An old thread suggested clean the breather, did that, cured the problem. Generally, as Occam's Razor states, the simple solution is normally the right one, more likely to be a blocked vent than a cracked case. Good luck.

How does fitting LED units affect charging? I understand our voltage regulators are set up with the standard headlight voltage drop, if we fit a lower current item will this not result in an under charging alternator. I seem to remember this was covered in earlier posts about fitting relays to save headlight current going through the dip switch.

Hmm, transverse crank V-Twin with chain drive, do you think it will catch on?

I do know the older simple swinging arm models (T3 and early LeMans etc) lift the rear of the bike as you accelerate as the swinging arm is pushed down forcing the tyre onto the road. This is one of their nicer characteristics adding to that sense of 'oomph' as you pull away. Of course the down side is they tend to lift the rear wheel if you roll the throttle off quickly, a bit dodgy if you do it mid corner - probably the reason for the various parallelogram systems fitted to the later Guzzi and BMW bikes. It also simply added the ability to have floating rear brakes although that is really only vital on off road bikes.with their long travel rear suspension. As a younger chap I remember sitting at traffic lights and making my T3 bounce up and down by holding the front brake on and half feeding in the clutch, releasing it and then feeding in again repeatedly. "Only I can control this savage beast!"