68C

Did not know Bruce but enjoyed his posts. All I could think of was to donate today to the forum. Done.

All you need now is cash. Have you tried Nik's Euro Bits on 07980639289, also on Ebay as nik-w. Based near Chichester. He has a wealth of Guzzi knowledge and specialises in Guzzi bits, you may have met him at Autojumbles.

I bow to personal experience, also got myself well confused with Motoguzznix and Motoguzzimick! Glad to hear plug failure not a problem, it would be an easy mod on my old T3.

I wondered about that as well, I remember folk did it with old Tonti models. I was told one problem is if a plug or one coil fails the cylinder is then running retarded with possible overheating and piston and exhaust header damage. You don't know the plug has failed, as the drop in performance will not be great, until you see the header glowing cherry red. I found this earlier thread by Motoguzznix. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18850&view=findpost&p=201788&hl=%2Btwin+%2Bplug

Hi gstallons, Sorry, could not resist recycling an old joke. "Deze'l fit 'er" = UK dialect for "These will fit her". "Diesel Fitter" = A diesel engine mechanic. "HUH" = The usual reaction to my attempt at humour. Now back to the thread.

My wife asked what job she could do in a garage, I looked for a spare set of overalls then thought "Ah, deze'll fit 'er"

Er yes,..... of course I may have been looking the other way from the UK.

Please please keep reporting on this trip, I have only been Texas and Georgia on trips to Bell Helicopter and Gulfstream training courses. I have always fancied seeing the East coast, Oregon and California - or have I got my navigation all wrong? ANYWAYS, it would be fascinating to hear about your trip.

If all V11 fuel pressures are in that region I am surprised at the wide tolerance, could be up to 13% difference and still be in tolerance. I would have thought varying the fuel map by that much would be noticeable. That is unless I have screwed up my maths, + or - 0.2 is 0.4, divide by three is 0.133r, which I take to be 13%. So I guess the fuel pressure is not super critical or a narrower tolerance would have been specified.

So now it appears the accuracy of the regulator is important the next obvious question is should we check this pressure? I assume a simple 0-5 bar gauge tee'd into the pump output would do. Ah.... what pressure should it be, 3.5bar? And what tolerance should we accept, + or - 1% ?

That is rather what I thought, just wondered if we are wasting our time swapping maps on non Cat bikes.

Ha, thats nothing , next time you are in the UK check out Nora at the Lawnmower Museum. Remember, owning a Guzzi is all about accepting reality.

Somewhat off topic I know but I did'nt realise until I looked further today how relevant Miss Shilling is to a motorcycle forum. And she only lived twenty miles from me, how we live and learn. http://www3.hants.gov.uk/biographies/shilling.htmy

Thanks Kiwi Roy, I know gasses flowing through an orifice 'choke' once the flow goes supersonic and that the flow will remain constant even if the supply pressure increases. Gas turbine enthusiasts will know this idea is used to off load the engine during starting and idle I did not realise this also applies to fluids, makes sense now that the pressure is not that important. This should not be confused with Miss Shilling's Orifice.

Hi all, just a 'wondering about' question. As I understand it the fuel pump delivers a regulated steady fuel pressure and the ECU opens the injectors for the correct time in each cell of the fuel map to deliver the required quantity of fuel. This brings me to wonder how accurate the fuel regulator is, does varying temperature, battery/charge voltage affect it. If actual fuel pressute differs between bikes, how does this affect map sharing. This is just for interest, I don't suspect a fault on my bike and don't intend to fit any magic super regulator.

I agree it is nice to tidy things up. They used to say if you could remove a part and the bike still worked and was legal you did'nt need it. My pet hate is bikes that have nice covers to hide some ugly component under it. Why not design it pretty in the first place? Most Japanese bikes suffer from this, look at a stripped down Yamaha, loads of thin welded on brackets and gussets that collect crap, not the easiest bike to make 'sanitary'. I know they use a lot of generic parts but they could still be attractive.

Still don't understand why you want to remove this pipe. It was common to fit a LeMans Mk1 breather box to the 850T3 which let oil run back to the sump but allowed gasses to vent to atmosphere and not into the airbox, less chance of oil deposit build up on the inlet valve. The metal box was about 3" x 2" and sat between the carbs, it had an internal rubber flapper valve which ensured a low pressure in the crankcase, worked really well and lasted a long time. As the original airbox would not fit you then fitted K&N filters. I can understand if you want to reroute the pipe that goes goes to the airbox but not why you want to stop the oil running back to the sump. Of course, allowing the gasses to atmosphere has an enviromental effect which is why the OEM choose to burn them through the engine.

Always have a little chicken with you to watch the sky.

It is normal to fit motorcycle pistons through the bottom of the barrel as there is a machined taper at the bottom of the barrel to help the rings slide in.

Love the Tony Foale frame, never seen it before, I cetainly did not know he was so involved with Guzzi racers. I have a set of Tony Foale leading link forks that I believe were were for a T3 sidecar set up with the name proudly cast into the disc caliper mount arms. At the moment the lower section is fitted to my Triumph 900 outfit using homemade down tubes.

I feel like the man finding his way in a cave with a candle when in comes this guy with a generator backpack and a bunch of LED floodlights. Amazing.

Hi, Probably not that relevant but this may be of interest, not sure if the section at the bottom of the page is by the seller or CA Cycleworks, the manufacturer of the aftermarket part. Could not work out how to paste the ebay page using this android tablet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Throttle-Position-Censor-TPS-PF3C-Monster-SS-SS750-SS900-ST2-748R-/111784871752?hash=item1a06e5c748:g:tdwAAOSwsB9WCwF5

Yeah, You are right, I did'nt think about those domed Le Mans pistons.

I fitted 950cc barrels to my 850 T3, I used the original T3 heads, I also lightened the flywheel. I used the T3 carbs. Now the T3 heads with larger barrels would have raised the compression ratio a little and the lighter flywheels should have meant a little more acceleration, in truth after the several months it took to swap things around I cannot really say I noticed any real improvement. I reckon the LeMans mk1 heads on the T5 barrels should run perfectly, unless you also fit the larger LeMans carbs probably not much will change. A lot of people think the T5 was the best Guzzi, good spread of power unlike the V11 which seems to have less bottem to mid range (real world) power. They are also bullet proof, the T5 will survive a crash better than the V11.

Just tinkering. I have enjoyed seeing how things changed with the MyEcu running closed loop, although I never did get the MyEcu to run any better than the WM15M, it has been an interesting learning experience. I have been using the Guzzidiag software with a spare ex Ducati WM15M that I load my changes into, I have fitted an LC1 with an AFR gauge to see what I get at various settings. I now understand I can set either Ecu to run at whatever Air Fuel Ratio I want....the problem is I don't really know what that AFR should be for max efficiency. Also I am unsure what I mean by max efficiency, best fuel consumption or max power? Every engine is different, every day you ride is different, temp, air pressure etc. I am beginning to think closed loop is not suitable for a motorcycle as we rarely ride at a constant throttle, at least not in England. It is just fun for me, when I want to go any distance I use the WM15M with the stock map. Thanks for the advice, I now know I cannot reprogram the 15M to a 15RC.