68C

I think the earlier 5 speed bikes had a narrower rear wheel, The later 6 speed bikes have a wider 180 section tyre so the alignment of the gearbox output shaft to the drive shaft has moved out to the right to clear the new wider section tyre. This may be why there is a difference in access to the forward Universal joint. Its more to do with the wider rear wheel than the short/long frame.

So are all Le Mans versions long frame?

The Netherlanders can be described as one of the true expansionist nations. At the rate they are reclaiming the North Sea I am convinced I shall awaken one morning to find Britain merely an island in some giant Dutch lake. Still have to take a ferry to get anywhere though.

Thanks for listing the connector, as you say I need the RC ecu to run closed loop. I picked up a used LC-1 lamda controller and an AFR gauge recently and have been riding around looking at the results, tend to wander around a bit at present but quite interesting.

That is very kind, I think I have all I need at present just waiting for the double banjo pressure switch now. Thank you for thinking of me though.

For interest sake my 2004 (2003 built?) Rosso Corsa has an IAW15M,C7 and is labelled MG V11 LE MANS MY 02, not sure if that is the most up to date ecu for that bike. I obtained an IAW15M.A8 labelled DUCATI MONSTER 900 which I stripped to build the My15M including robbing the main connector. I am now considering getting another connector and resurrecting the little beast. This may give me a spare to play with. Although a 'non lamda bike' my wiring loom has the connector for the O2 sensor so it was easy to connect the sensor up to the My15M. You can now see why I was asking if I can make the old Ductati unit operate closed loop. Good luck with project which I suppose not suprisingly reminds me of the DucatiDiag software I have also been playing with. The truth is however my bike runs fine with the original ECU, I am just tinkering about - I have now got the My15M to run as well as the original except for slower starting.

Many thanks, I found and used the button. We really need to support this guy. Does anyone know if there any actual differences between the 'with lamda IAW15RC' and the 'without lamda IAW15M' ecus other than the software, in other words can I reprogram an IAW15M to act as an IAW15RC? Also can we reprogram the more common ex Ducati IAW15 ecus to run on a Guzzi?

I think you are talking about the device that senses how much weight is on the rear wheel via a link rod from the swinging arm. I will look into these aftermarket proportioning valves. For the moment I am going to keep things as simple as I can by simply running a single line from the hand master cylinder to the RH disc and run a second pipe from the rear master cylinder to the LH front disc. Then depending on how it rides consider adding the proportioning valve. I am waiting for a replacement brake switch for the rear master cylinder that is long enough to accept two brake-pipe unions. Others have told me to look out for very short rear pad life.

Please give a bit more detail about the 'hydraulic height adjustment' Lubho. (don't know why I cannot correct this tiny font !)

Ah yes the Munch Mammut. There was a brave man.

Thanks for pointing out the valve actually biases to the rear and not the front wheel. The standard old Guzzi T3 system works well, you can brake hard at speed with the foot brake with bike feeling very settled even hands off, pulling on the hand lever markedly increasing the braking with plenty of feel. The system is particularly good in cold weather with heavy gloves. As I understood it the size of the discs were chosen to give the correct amount of braking bias. I appreciate a racer may prefer the convential setup when at the limit but I am on the heavily policed UK roads. I like the idea of ABS, great in my car, but perhaps a little ambitious to fit to a V11. My intention is to convert to a system similar to your old Gold Wing ie., foot front and rear wheel with the hand lever adding more braking to the front. Never having ridden a Gold Wing I can't comment on the rear wheel locking problem, never happened to me on the T3. The only time the linked braking has given me trouble is on very slippery off-road descents where its nice to be able to lock the rear wheel. The V11 is a little ungainly for that sort off work so hopefully won't be a problem.

An attack of basal joint (thumb) arthritis leads me to want to convert my '04 V11 to the linked braking system as fitted to the conti models. I have a T3 and find it a very good system, now my T3 does not have a compensator valve as such, merely a simple manifold to direct the fluid equally to the LH front and rear disc and to mount the rear stop switch. I also have one of the valves from a California - don't know which model - which does appear to have moving parts apparantly to bias the fluid to the front disc. Does anyone know more about this system, which version would you fit. There are of course the additional problems of the master cylinders now being the wrong size. Any advice. Master cyl. part numbers, donor bikes etc?

Saw one on the Guzzi stand at the Bristol Classic Bike Show this weekend (strangely actually in Shepton Mallet). Did not look so huge as I expected, probably smaller than the new Triumph Rocket 3. Build quality looked good but also looked a bugger to clean. Definitely reminded me of the original Cali with the black and white seat. Did not like the finned, polished and laquered rocker covers - too square and reminded me of those small Korean choppers KMCO, KYGEL or whatever they are called. Still not beyond the wit of man to have replacements, similar to the original round barrel covers, cast I suppose.

I just took the MyEcu data off the SPORT.ECU file supplied by Cliff as an example. I understand that the ambient/oil temp and barometric pressure modify the timings actually sent to the injector. I assume the IAW15M must do something similar. I need to study how to get the two maps displayed as a 3d graph.

So if we look at the view of the ‘how the editing works’ we see the top left cell has 84.14 @8500 = 195 I assume this means Wide open Throttle = 84.14 degrees and that at 8,500 rpm we deliver 195.0 fuel . What does the 195 mean, is it a quantity or weight of fuel, is it the injection duration? I ask as a typical figure for the MyECU would be Wide Open Throttle at 8,143rpm = 10368 micro seconds injection duration. I am trying to see how the IAW15M ecu map compares with the MyECU map. Many thanks for your excellent work, I can give you loads of tips on the best way to cut your knuckles when heaving on spanners or setting light to things while welding but am a bit slow learning this virtual stuff.

In the early seventies as a soldier in Germany I had a frame mounted half race fairing on a Norton, I dropped the bike and broke the fairing. I cut it short and mounted it to the handlebars so it fitted around the headlamp which was now back in its original mounts. Looked great. A year later BMW bought out the R90S with the same fairing layout. I have always been a leader of fashion .

Hot air is less dense than cold air. There is less oxygen in this less dense air. To maintain the correct fuel/air ratio you would need to reduce the amount of fuel. You will need smaller jets or lower the needle. Carbs with accelerator pumps can give problems in hot weather.

Thanks, I will look into using these limited range voltages.

I expect the only real changes we can make are by removing the emission and noise control limitations, probably technically illegal in many places and will soon be socially unacceptable everywhere. Still, there is always bigger cylinders, higher RPM, forced induction via turbo or super charging, intercooling....... loads of fun to be had yet. My mate is still making improvements to his 350cc Velocette! When you speak of L=0.8, I assume this is using stoichiometric as L=1 rather than the voltage output of a narrow band O2 sensor.

Yeah too right. I used to love sitting at the lights with my old T3, front brake on and blipping the throttle while working the clutch lever back and forth. The old style torque reaction pushing the swinging arm down and lifting the bike - after a while you could get it really rocking. "Only I can tame this savage beast!". When I was a child I thought as a child etc. I will take your advice on .9 - .95v. I suppose its a matter of making changes to exhaust/airbox etc which result in it running weak then adding fuel to get back to the desired AFR. If an alteration makes it run weak it is a good thing as you can then add fuel and get more power. As my old engineering instructer would say, " We use the oxygen to oxidise the fuel to creat heat to expand the nitrogen to push the piston down". If after a change the motor runs weak we have spare oxygen which can oxidise more fuel.

I do have the Optimiser which I have found to be great fun. I have fitted a larger display which makes it much easier to read however Cliff seems to be moving away from the idea of looking at the screen whilst riding. I seems to be getting nervous we all kill ourselves. Rather he now advises the Android mobile phone approach whereby you log a ride and then adjust the map semi-manually back at home. As I understand it you need the Optimiser in Autotune to correct your map. Once your bike runs with the map OK you do not need the Optimiser. You can select Closed Coop and it will try to keep to the AFR values you have assigned to the various cells. The problem of course is you need to decide what AFR you want. The truth is my 04 Rosso Corsa runs OK with the oem ecu. I have fitted the My15M as a way of finding out how alterations affect the bike - it is unlikely I will ever achieve the 'perfect' map as I am probably not a sensitive enough rider to recognise it. This is all a bit like the old days when you rode around with a pocketfull of carb jets and stopping to check the spark plug colour. Do you try for the perfect colour (AFR) or the best running bike.

Ok, I have figured this one out. The LC-1 Analogue Out 1 lead goes to pin 3 of the 4 pin socket which feeds pin 8 of the ECU. Just posted this to tidy things up for anyone searching later on.

Never been to Cameroon but have worked in Nigeria. Alledgedly the Cameroon girls were very popular as they had such nice French accents.

Hi all, any chance of someone giving me a dummies guide to wiring up the Innovate LC-1 to a 2004 V11 Rosso Corsa which is fitted with a Cliff Jefferies My15M ECU. My bike has the wiring loom suitable for the ‘with catalyser’ version and has a four pin plug which connects to the standard O2 sensor. The sensor connects to the ECU via the main connector, I am not using the three pins on the My15M pcb. The My15M reads this O2 sensor OK and runs closed loop using voltage settings as suggested by Cliff for the standard O2 sensor. I would now like to convert to a wideband system my intention is to cut the wire off an old standard O2 sensor and wire it to the LC1 so that I can plug it back into the bike loom rather than run extra wires to the pcb pins. This much I do know. Grounding is very important. Also the LC-1 must be supplied with +12v as soon as the ignition is switched on to allow the O2 sensor to heat up to avoid any thermal shock to the 02 sensor, this is supplied by the 4 pin plug from the injection power relay. I will also have to edit my map back to the original LC-1 voltages. My problem is with the analogue inputs to the 4 pin plug. As standard the bike is wired as below: Original 02 sensor 4 Pin Socket Pin 1 Black Heater ground -----------------------------Pin 1 Black ---------------------Ground Pin 2 Grey Heater 12v -----------------------------Pin 2 Red/Black-----------------+12v from injector relay Pin 3 White Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 3 Orange ----------------------ECU pin 8 Pin 4 White Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 4 Orange/Black---------------ECU Pin 2 I intend to add the LC-1 and an AFR Gauage: Innovate LC-1 4 Pin Socket Red 12v Supply ------------------------------Pin 2 Red/Black------------------+12v from injector relay Yellow Analogue Out 1 -----------------------------PIN ????? ---------------------????? Green Analogue Ground----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground Blue Heater Ground ------------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground White System Ground -----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground Brown Analogue Out 2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------AFR Gauge Black Calibration Wire-----------------------------------------------------------------------Calibration switch. The LC-1 manual indicates the ‘Analogue Out 1’ should go to the ECU. Q1/ Which pin on the 4 pin connector to use, pin 3 or 4 (ecu pins 8 & 2)? Q2/ Should the remaining pin ( 3 or 4) be connected, The LC-1 Manual suggests it should be grounded but not connected to the LC-1 or is it grounded within the My15M. Many thanks. I have also posted this on the MyEcu Forum.

Yes, that's the same guy. I remember he was always really chatty at the HD shop in Southampton, I did'nt know much about him at the time so managed to avoid embarrasing myself with too much hero worship. Apparently he offered to take on anyone on the track, providing they were not a genuine racer, he would ride a Harley and they could bring what they liked.