68C

So which bikes have the twin cable, could I retrofit it it to an 03 RC? You may remember one of my first posts was about the throttle linkrod adjuster knob getting caught on the rear shock reservoir pipe connector, this was at full throttle! Surprising how quick it accelerated, luckily on a straight road, until I remembered the kill switch. I am sure I could have made it roll off with a twin cable setup.

Good spot JAAP, Wonder how strong 3D printed plastic is. Would be nice to see it in metal.

My 03 Rosso Corsa only one cable.

With 15 posts you are no longer a NOOB. My 03 LeMans throttle cable can only be adjusted at the twistgrip end. Have you looked above the LH throttle body to see if you have another adjuster there? On other bikes I like to set the twistgip end adjustment halfway then correct at the other end. That way I know I can twiddle with the twist grip end if I get bored on a long run.

Must be dangerous bit of road, notice the spectator benches either side.

Bikes are like women, it is easy to let a good one go then regret it later, especially when someone else is getting all the fun.

Google translates that as " They know what the clutch dimensions are for Guzzi V11 they would help me". Hello V11scura02sport From google translater "which dimension do you need?" "Que dimension necesitas?"

Never come across those in aircraft, although I mainly worked on obsolete stuff. As one of the younger mechs said to me, "Your so old you can remember when aircraft were made from metal". Conventional CBs do help you find an intermittent fault as it may reset for a while, a hard fault won't. Could an auto reset mask an intermittent fault?

The link shows these are auto-reset types. I understand the aviation pop-up circuit breakers which you push to reset but do not see how auto-reset works. Does it sit there clicking on and off with a hard fault like a short to earth?

Do I spot a reference to the zener diode bolted to the Norton Commando RH footrest carrier?

Had a look on Google Earth at the Tellico Lodge, looks really nice. Love that empty road, you would'nt stand around too long on most of our roads unless you want to be roadkill. Just saw the BBC News with an article about the storm making landfall in the Bahamas and heading your way, take care.

You are only doing a five second weld at the most so should not warp the head. Disconnect any electronic items, voltage regulator, battery, possibly the tacho and any Power Commander etc. May be worth disconnecting any LED lights, you just need to unplug them. The best method would be with a TIG welder, next MIG and lastly an Arc welder. You could even use Oxy Acetylene although that would require heating for a little longer. I don't have a TIG so use a MIG or an Arc. Weld through the centre of the nut to avoid any damage to the casting. If you are still trying to remove the easy-out remember to turn it clockwise to remove it. Stuff some wet rag down the oil drain channels. Good luck.

Again, weld a nut to the sheared off easy-out and remove it. I cannot see which type you are using, I do not like the left hand thread tapered type, as you screw them in they squeeze the nut/bolt out making it even tighter in the casting. Go too far and you will crack the casting. There are parallel easy outs that work well with the correct drill but once they slip you have to go up a size. I feel attempting to drill, grind and then picking out the remaining thread should be you last idea as you will find it very difficult to drill central and square. You could well end up using a thread insert but that opens up difficulties with making it oil tight as you may encroach on the o'ring. Of course removing the head allows you to get to a machine shop for a professional repair, at a cost. Please try the welding a steel nut on first, it really does work and is cheap.

Very interesting, sorry I need to rush of and sand down my fingertips.

Can you weld a 17mm nut to it then heave on the nut. Usually work as the heat from the weld loosens things. And of course that spilt fuel will help.

Love the bike, had a look at the website with google translation, very interesting. I particularly liked the advert for Hernia Boxer Shorts at the bottom of the page.

Now I am confused.

Yes they do, but Guzzi used the same clamps as the naked bikes. Originally blanked with a plastic plug.

Really rare when you are buying one, common as shit when selling. Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk

The pistons MUST slide freely. When you apply the brake the square section seals distort at first as the piston moves, allowing the pads to firmly grip the disc. When you release the brake it is the distorted seal that pulls the piston back to release the pressure on the pads and disc. As the pads slowly wear the seal will distort and then allow the piston to slide through autimatically taking up the clearance. If the piston is not free to slide the distorted seal is unable to pull the piston back and the brake will bind. The Norton Racing team told me to never use silicon brake fluid as it is too slippery, allowing the piston to slide through freely rather than distorting the seal meaning there is no force pulling the piston back. I believe it was Dowty who discovered how the square section seal worked, earlier attempts with round seal led to binding brakes and rapid pad wear.

Those washers are called Bonded Seal Washers or Dowty Washers. Plenty on Ebay.

This website has the socket that is a part of the ECU, they may be able to help you with the plug. You need one if building a MyEcu. I just cut up an old ebay V11 l.oom. https://www.te.com/global-en/product-6437288-6.html

I did mess around with using an Arduino to display the throttle position, basically it read the 5volt modified output from the TPS and displayed it on an LED display as the throttle cells. Worked OK but I soon realised what others have found. Going fast while looking at an LED not really that safe. I suspect that is why Cliff moved away from his bike mounted MyEcu Optimiser display. Probably realised selling things to a careless rider in the States can lead to litigation. Do like your ideas, I was hoping to play around with datalogging on the cheap. I must have a poke around and see what I can do. How important is a rev counter on a lumbering old VTwin, especially one with a programmable Rev Limiter via Guzzidiag. I would just be happy if I could find a working Speedo!

Sorry, did not read the title fully!

Google Guzzidiag, a very clever chap in Germany has most of this covered. If you are hoping to include GPS for data logging may well be worth getting in contact with him. There is a great deal of info about this app on this website. I will leave it to the better informed folk here to give you more help.