68C

As you say, on a parallel twin maybe it helps. Have you ever contributed to a thread then after a few turns kind of lose interest in continuing the story.

I thought the idea of connecting the manifolds was to help keep the carbs/fuel injector bodies balanced at closed or almost closed throttle, once you open the throttle it makes little difference. We used to blank the balance pipe off while setting up and synching the carbs then reconnect. Probably a 360° parallel twin thing.

If they spin slower than than other Guzzi drive shafts they must be subject to higher, not lower torque.

I have often wondered if linking the two manifolds would help low throttle balance. Many parallel twins do, perhaps the uneven firing order of our v- twins mean this would not be of any benefit.

Yeah, like the idea of an off the shelf 90° box with chain drive. Make sure the wheel turns in the right direction though.

We are not all rich and do what we have to do to keep our bikes on the road. To be fair to whoever did this 'repair' it seems to have worked and so saved our planet from having to produce a new part. Of course one should declare these ingenious repair methods when selling.

So which bikes have the twin cable, could I retrofit it it to an 03 RC? You may remember one of my first posts was about the throttle linkrod adjuster knob getting caught on the rear shock reservoir pipe connector, this was at full throttle! Surprising how quick it accelerated, luckily on a straight road, until I remembered the kill switch. I am sure I could have made it roll off with a twin cable setup.

Good spot JAAP, Wonder how strong 3D printed plastic is. Would be nice to see it in metal.

My 03 Rosso Corsa only one cable.

With 15 posts you are no longer a NOOB. My 03 LeMans throttle cable can only be adjusted at the twistgrip end. Have you looked above the LH throttle body to see if you have another adjuster there? On other bikes I like to set the twistgip end adjustment halfway then correct at the other end. That way I know I can twiddle with the twist grip end if I get bored on a long run.

Must be dangerous bit of road, notice the spectator benches either side.

Bikes are like women, it is easy to let a good one go then regret it later, especially when someone else is getting all the fun.

Google translates that as " They know what the clutch dimensions are for Guzzi V11 they would help me". Hello V11scura02sport From google translater "which dimension do you need?" "Que dimension necesitas?"

Never come across those in aircraft, although I mainly worked on obsolete stuff. As one of the younger mechs said to me, "Your so old you can remember when aircraft were made from metal". Conventional CBs do help you find an intermittent fault as it may reset for a while, a hard fault won't. Could an auto reset mask an intermittent fault?

The link shows these are auto-reset types. I understand the aviation pop-up circuit breakers which you push to reset but do not see how auto-reset works. Does it sit there clicking on and off with a hard fault like a short to earth?

Do I spot a reference to the zener diode bolted to the Norton Commando RH footrest carrier?

Had a look on Google Earth at the Tellico Lodge, looks really nice. Love that empty road, you would'nt stand around too long on most of our roads unless you want to be roadkill. Just saw the BBC News with an article about the storm making landfall in the Bahamas and heading your way, take care.

You are only doing a five second weld at the most so should not warp the head. Disconnect any electronic items, voltage regulator, battery, possibly the tacho and any Power Commander etc. May be worth disconnecting any LED lights, you just need to unplug them. The best method would be with a TIG welder, next MIG and lastly an Arc welder. You could even use Oxy Acetylene although that would require heating for a little longer. I don't have a TIG so use a MIG or an Arc. Weld through the centre of the nut to avoid any damage to the casting. If you are still trying to remove the easy-out remember to turn it clockwise to remove it. Stuff some wet rag down the oil drain channels. Good luck.

Again, weld a nut to the sheared off easy-out and remove it. I cannot see which type you are using, I do not like the left hand thread tapered type, as you screw them in they squeeze the nut/bolt out making it even tighter in the casting. Go too far and you will crack the casting. There are parallel easy outs that work well with the correct drill but once they slip you have to go up a size. I feel attempting to drill, grind and then picking out the remaining thread should be you last idea as you will find it very difficult to drill central and square. You could well end up using a thread insert but that opens up difficulties with making it oil tight as you may encroach on the o'ring. Of course removing the head allows you to get to a machine shop for a professional repair, at a cost. Please try the welding a steel nut on first, it really does work and is cheap.

Very interesting, sorry I need to rush of and sand down my fingertips.

Can you weld a 17mm nut to it then heave on the nut. Usually work as the heat from the weld loosens things. And of course that spilt fuel will help.

Love the bike, had a look at the website with google translation, very interesting. I particularly liked the advert for Hernia Boxer Shorts at the bottom of the page.

Now I am confused.

Yes they do, but Guzzi used the same clamps as the naked bikes. Originally blanked with a plastic plug.

Really rare when you are buying one, common as shit when selling. Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk