68C

The pistons MUST slide freely. When you apply the brake the square section seals distort at first as the piston moves, allowing the pads to firmly grip the disc. When you release the brake it is the distorted seal that pulls the piston back to release the pressure on the pads and disc. As the pads slowly wear the seal will distort and then allow the piston to slide through autimatically taking up the clearance. If the piston is not free to slide the distorted seal is unable to pull the piston back and the brake will bind. The Norton Racing team told me to never use silicon brake fluid as it is too slippery, allowing the piston to slide through freely rather than distorting the seal meaning there is no force pulling the piston back. I believe it was Dowty who discovered how the square section seal worked, earlier attempts with round seal led to binding brakes and rapid pad wear.

Those washers are called Bonded Seal Washers or Dowty Washers. Plenty on Ebay.

This website has the socket that is a part of the ECU, they may be able to help you with the plug. You need one if building a MyEcu. I just cut up an old ebay V11 l.oom. https://www.te.com/global-en/product-6437288-6.html

I did mess around with using an Arduino to display the throttle position, basically it read the 5volt modified output from the TPS and displayed it on an LED display as the throttle cells. Worked OK but I soon realised what others have found. Going fast while looking at an LED not really that safe. I suspect that is why Cliff moved away from his bike mounted MyEcu Optimiser display. Probably realised selling things to a careless rider in the States can lead to litigation. Do like your ideas, I was hoping to play around with datalogging on the cheap. I must have a poke around and see what I can do. How important is a rev counter on a lumbering old VTwin, especially one with a programmable Rev Limiter via Guzzidiag. I would just be happy if I could find a working Speedo!

Sorry, did not read the title fully!

Google Guzzidiag, a very clever chap in Germany has most of this covered. If you are hoping to include GPS for data logging may well be worth getting in contact with him. There is a great deal of info about this app on this website. I will leave it to the better informed folk here to give you more help.

Welcome from England, England.

Imagine trying to work on one of these in twenty years time when spare instrument panels will be unobtainable.

Funny place for a race number.

Hi Tinus89, If you are really keen on bits of debris you could try following the directions of the old UK civil Aircraft Inspection Procedures EL/3-1 para 4.3. This was a list of methods for determining what metal is in the oil filter. Of course being British we had no truck with such complexities as Spectro Analysis. I hear there is similar available from the FAA. Drain the oil filter and wash the debris into a paper filter. Ferrous metal can be picked up by a magnet. Hot nitric acid will turn yellow or light brown with carbon steel and dark brown with cast iron. No effect on non austenitic stainless steel. Bronze will develop a white precipitate when boiled in nitric acid. Mag alloy will react with saturated copper sulphate solution. Aluminium will cause a solution of caustic soda to be clear. Aluminium alloy will develop a grey or black precipitate. White metal will dissolve slowly in nitric acid developing black particles in a pale green solution. Have fun, white coats are available from all reputable outlets.

I love the belly pan and the green and silver. I have never liked the white 'mouth' or whatever it is supposed to be. If you have any green paint leftover you could pretty this duckling up a little.

Yes, it is inside the IAW15M ECU, that is why the case is not sealed and so vulnerable to getting wet.

Have you seen the 'Britten Bike Story' movie where he cools a new casting with a bucket of water from his pool. The man even made his own light switches for his house.

Looking at those blanked off push rod tubes, does this mean the old Tonti engine could be modified into a V10? I understand of course the motor would no longer fit a Tonti frame.

Are you getting any voltage to the injecters?

Try not to over think this. Just give it a quick polish with fine wet and dry abrasive paper and fit it. Use some gasket sealant, such as Hylomar NOT SILICON, if you are really worried. Those marks really are minor. What is the worse that can happen?

Of course you had to hack off the swinging arm lugs from the Vincent gearbox to put it into a Featherbed frame, If you listen carefully you can still hear the howls of anguish from the Vincent Owners Club.

A new Vincent Series 'C' in 1952 was about £350, the average wage then,for a man of course, was around £500 a year. Not many bikes now cost more than nine months salary.

I am rather nervous asking but what is bottom pressure? Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk

Did you find the bit that got punched out?

Perhaps a wire gauze thimblse rather than a fine oil filter.

I still think the old first LeMans was a great bike. I managed to buy a six month old T3 in '79 I really wish I had found the cash to have bought a LeMans instead. Once fitted with T3 spoked wheels with a wider rear rim they looked great, I can still hear the racing LeMans climbing the mountain at the TT. Of course I would have had to go on steroids to be able to wind those 36mm Delortos open. (Do not try lighter springs, my mate did that and found the throttle would not close at full bore!

In the UK we have the choice of a basic cheaper mandatory 'Third Party' insurance which covers you for damage you cause to other people and their vehicle. Then we have the more popular 'Comprehensive ' insurance which also covers you and your vehicle. The comprehensive cover usually means your insurance company will fight their insurance company on your behalf. Is it the same with you?