68C

Looked closer at your photo of the manometer. Perhaps it is not a true manometer. Instead it is a balance tube in which the pipe is one piece , coming from one cylinder manifold then down the wooden support and looping round then going back up the the other side to connect to the other manifold. This will work with most fluids as the difference in height is only the difference between the two cylinders. My dislike of this system is that if one of the pipes connecting the engine manifolds comes loose the fluid will be instantly ingested. The same may happen if the carbs/throttles are completely out of adjustment. Hopefully there will not be enough fluid in the pipe to cause a hydraulic lock and a bent con rod. An improvement to the 'balance pipe' device is to have water traps at the top of the tubes. These can be complicated float type shut off valves or a large chamber that can hold the total amount of fluid. An advantage of the chamber is that it damps out the fluid level oscillations.

Oil would be even lighter requiring taller tubes.

Looks like fun. I use a homemade mercury manometer, had the bottle of mercury since the days it was not considered too dangerous for the common man. Now I get readings of around 8 inches of mercury, what sort of readings do you get with your water manometer? As water has an SG of 1, and mercury 13.5 I suppose you must get around 108 inches of water. Or perhaps I have got my maths and physics wrong.

This also starts you off on the search for a suitable fueling and ignition map. Have fun.

Bit worried about you working with an open fuel system and live electrics!

Nice pic but she is a little out of focus.

The trouble is you need so many types of clothing. The denim cut-off and original jeans, no gloves or helmet when running with your self styled hard dude mates. Worn Barbour jacket, old work trousers, open face helmet and rubber boots when riding off road, or green laning as we Brits call it. Full hi-tech leathers, carbon fibre helmet and kangaroo skin gloves for those thrashes with the fast jap bike set. Comfy waterproof jacket, plastic trousers, old full face helmet to go to work. Oversuit to cover your good clothes if going into town and need to look smart. For years I always rode in a wax cotton jacket, blue jeans and rigger boots. Finally managed to buy a leather Rocker jacket with plenty of zips and studs, and of course my wallet held by achain to my belt. Then I got richer and started buying modern kit that does not seem to last any time. How do I now about the list of kit, because I still have it all of it.

One way to ensure smooth tickover is the Harley mod, they shut down the rear cylinder when idling. So simple. Problem: rear cylinder overheating at idle. Solution: turn it off! So only one cylinder running = smooth tickover. A bit of fiddling with GuzziDiag and its done. Myself I prefer not sitting around at idle and to ignore any unbalance. Could not find a tongue-in-cheek emoticon.

Of course a new nyloc nut does not have a thread in the nylon part, it cuts itself one the first time the nut is used. In extremis one can make a quick pass over the nut with a blowlamp, to partially melt the nylon, allowing it to return to a semi new condition. This technique best left for lawnmowers and other folks bikes/P51 etc. P.S.I What is a 'bleacher'?

You should have 1 1/2 threads showing.

I still remember how scary it was when my throttle linkage caught on the front of the rear shock reservoir. A V11 will accelerate from 50 to 100 in a very short time, especially when your mind is racing through 'pull on the brake', not a good idea; 'pull in the clutch', will the rev limiter work? Finally my old brain settled on the kill switch, never used one before in anger. I was lucky to be on a straight road at the time or it may have been a choice of a tree or a barbed wire fence. No, don't have any clever devices attached to your brakes or throttle. I find just holding my gloved right hand tight against the twist grip body provides all the friction I need.

Thought you all might like a look at this U Tube video made by a bloke who visited my mate. Fast foward through the part with the man talking in his car. Best bit at the end, you can't beat cubes. He wants to sell the BSA A20 1300cc. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D4nTfayIXfxg&ved=0ahUKEwjoqeX1p7DaAhXCDcAKHQbXB3IQtwIIVTAL&usg=AOvVaw1dDGd2yKYZlmPQLPrsb_4w

The super spring (as opposed to our wet UK one) arrived today via Steve S. Many thanks to all.

How do you mean 'before the weather turns bad', summer is nearly here. Dont't you remember summer stretched out forever when we were young.

I think this comes under the heading of 'Uncompromising Styling', of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I reckon the buttons along the lower sides of the tank are to hold the asbestos cloth curtain you need to stop the exhaust pipes burning your bits. No EFI, wonder how he worked the ignition.

I think you will find this is a peerless, a Grindlay Peerless. Grindlay-Peerless motorbike sells for £67,000 21 October 2012 The motorbike went for £67,580 at an auction at Staffordshire County Showground.

You have probably already done this but it is worth checking the breather is clear. I had a leak from speedo drive that stopped once I cleaned the breather filter. (As advised on this forum). It obviously will not cure the crack but making sure there is no pressure build up in the box may reduce leakage for the duration of your alpine adventure.

And the first nominee for Best Garage Wall Art is......................

Oh no, you've sent me off down yet another path to research. Excellent video.

Going back to Doc's original post in this thread; no you probably do not get a true reading with worn tappet arms but will most likely be within acceptable tolerance. If you are really keen use the old technique whereby you determine the adjuster thread pitch, screw the adjuster in to zero clearance then back of to set the gap. If you have a 1mm thread pitch it is easy as 1/2 turn equals 1/2mm (0.5mm). Helps if you keep the jam nut fairly snug while adjusting so clearance does not change as you tighten it. Years ago I saw a tool sold for this purpose with a round scale marked off in tenths, similar to a car cylinder head bolt torque indicater. We are only trying to adjust the clearance not strip and machine arms or adding super duper roller arms. How about this sort of tool? Or this gnarly kind. .

To ease my paranoia, please confirm this flat/roller tappet debacle only concerns the 8 valve motors.

Ah well, back to daytime TV then.

I will be there provided my transatlantic rated V11 floatation devices pass testing. Do you think I should angle the intake snorkels upwards?

And not a safety guard in site on the lathe. Is it possible to download this video to see it offline in the future?