belfastguzzi

according to the other thread, the new word that he found for it is: slop

So, then – thanks for making the special effort for that pic: just for us!

I reckon that the invisible power of magnetism could have a use here. Opposing magnetic forces should provide some nice tuneable cush? Go for belt and braces and still use the rubber wedges – but impregnated with magnetic filings? Mind you, talk of gerbils, er, was that off topic? Not necessarily: what about ditching the rubbers and stuffing the drive with fattened gerbils? Self-lubricating. Gerbils?

That's no woman – that's Dave Laing and his first batch of (faulty) custom urethane, just before he carves it into (imprecise) wedges. Hold the moly Dave, I'll try mustard with mine.

No not yet. Nobody has really mentioned the radiused edges on these rubber wedges. Can Guzzi have got this dimension right? I doubt it! There must be room for improvement. Why are they rounded off in such a fashion anyway? It can't be for stylistic appearance as the things can't be seen in normal useage. Can somebody please explain? Working on the basis that Guzzi can't have got this right, I first considered cutting a hard chine, but now I'm more inclined to go for some sort of serrated, waveform along the edge of the wedge. That ought to aid cushy pliability no end. Of course it's not all about hard science and what would work best from a technical point of view – these are Italian bikes – so it's worth putting in a bit more effort with the scalpel and fine sandpaper. Go for something like a clinker-built effect or even cedar shingles. Extra cush AND beauty. A SOLUTION, as I think you'll agree. See Docc's basic rounded edge wedges, as they come from the factory (though Docc seems to have polished his).

Yes, I'd be very interested to see the cheese wedge insertion process.

Lobotomy, is the technical term...

The Le Mans 3, or Le Mans lll, is old model bike from early 80s. You've got a V.11 Sport and it might be a 2002 or 2003 model even if purchased new in 2004.

Almost certainly the clutch will be the original one. Don't be afraid. It's a fine bike. It would be worth finding out if the 'pawl' spring under the transmission cover has been replaced though. IT is the bit that's likely to have either broken or will break, but the cause is now known and it's a fairly easy fix. If it has the MG Ti pipes it should have the replacement 'Race' ECU under the seat too. Nice. Maybe you could ask Moto Strada to check the pawl spring and replace it if necessary before you collect it: maybe delay collection to allow time for the job? The pawl arm and the spring should both be replaced, though if you do a home fix, you could file down the boss on the pawl arm. Easier, though, to get both the parts as a kit and install.

'ear, 'ear! Maybe so, but in my experience, alternative breathing results in the rear tyre becoming more flexi. Seems we just can't win with these machines. One problem at a time Ralph, besides, when we get the Rear Cush Dilemma solved, the ride will be as comfy as a feather bed. There'll be no need for embarassing personal cheese placement.

It appears that that's the land where anything is possible. I'll peer into the research & see if I can validate it. So wedges have been trialled in dessert trolleys? Small wheels, but I suppose you gotta start somewhere. Start with experiments on mice, then move on to Prince Charles, kind of thing. The spine frame – that was developed from the flexi-lamp?

A lifetime Some threads may take longer

Ratchet hasn't made his contribution. Yet. Perhaps he couldn't resist and – ate the trial samples Re the holes. I thought the interesting this is how they don't go right through the wedge, so it seems a good compromise between cushiness and maintaining structural integrity. How do they drill holes in the middle of the material without leaving entry / exit holes on the surface? I haven't been able to replicate this on the bodge bench.

Yak cheese. Good fat content. Self-lubricating properties. Could be the very thing.

Dr. Poh-Gek Forkert! What does he know! Oh yeah...that stuff up above... right, hmm But perhaps the use of wedges in motorcycle applications is ok – as long as we don't eat them?

SSSSSShhhhhhhhhhhh! You don't ask questions like that! There are some people here who don't even have bikes....

I've come across these wedges and I'm struck by the tremendous versatility of both the shape and the material. 'Out of the box', it's firm yet has a nice compliance and comes 'pre-drilled', giving, what could we call it? well, a sot of 'cushiness'. I can't help but feel that this material would prove very useful to the home mechanic and should be a part of every bicyclist's garage store. Although this material could easily be modified for various usage, there must be an obvious application for these rubbery wedges, just as they are. I can't quite think what it would be, but I'm sure that someone out there will immediately light-up with a brilliant idea. (Someone used it to make a bike helmet (an American I think) but I don't like that idea. Debate it's merits though, by all means.) Anyone interested in a group buy?

OK you've convinced me. What's the best material to use to fill the holes in again?

In this case, rope would be a safer bet, plus it means you don't have to worry about how long it is – as would be the case if a piece of string were to be considered.

I know your game! You're just trying to subtly tempt Rats Hat-check into this thread: as he's been resisting so far. Maybe if D.L. would be so kind as to suggest a 'suitable' measurement of wire strength – that might be the sort of bait required?

Euan you've probably given the answer to this before, but did you originally do some sort of fix to get the right boss / spring coil clearance, or just put a new spring in at the earlier repair? (Did you have a good festival?)

it's supposed to be, um, er... spelled with a 'u' humour

Excellent! I need a special 'point' for this achievement. Perhaps Nog would be so bad as to design one? Ratchet, read MikeyMike's post for clarifiaction about which splines he was reffering to, then set to. However I suggest that this mod be carried out on all interfacing metallic splines anywhere. I started the experiment on my driveshaft splines. Honest. Knock 'em out – this mod is gonna be all the rage soon.

Please, Jaap?? You gave the old codger icon on my last request. Perhaps you would be so good as to follow-up with GJ's hint?

Well, quite. So what I did was knock out every other spline. That gives enough clearance to then build a cush-surface on the remaining splines in order to eliminate the dreadful damage caused by the stupid design of metallic spline-on-spline hammer action. I took one of the surplus (craazee Italianos) cush rubber wedges and cut it into slivers of chromified rubber (dremel with diamond disc). I then glued (Araldite Original) these slivers onto the remaining spline faces. The ride is now unbelievably comfy and I engine brake with fearless impunity. I notice a healthy secondary benefit in the form of reduced unsprung weight. Marvellous. Try it. Any ideas for what I can do with the surplus splines now? ebay?