belfastguzzi

sorry I haven't checked manuals, diagrams or anything: I'm just hoping for some quick comment here What happens with water in the fuel system? Does it just sit in the bottom of the tank? Does it collect in the fuel filter? Does it tend to go through the system (possibly damaging injectors) and get 'steamed' off? A little bit of rain is always going to get in to an opened tank filler. Last time I opened it after heavy rain, a large amount of water glugged in, though. It had collected and not drained (for some reason to be yet determined). When bike was leaned over on side stand the water collected over on the left was as high as it could be and emptied in to the tank as soon as the seal was lifted – too quickly for me to stop it. Suppose best thing is to let tank get low and then drain it all out. Should the filter be changed as a precaution?

And on the other hand, it is not serious, if we take the attitude that we don't buy a bike in order to get a warranty. We buy a bike to use it, maintain it as best as possible and fix it / modify it according to resources available. GuzziLand

That IS serious. Wherever the problem lies – dealer or factory – if warranty parts, that a buyer is entitled to, take a year to arrive, or never arrive at all (as I am now resigned to) it is not an inconsequential matter. It's not that parts can't be obtained somehow, by buying them somewhere else. That is the real-life solution. But it is not what we deserve and not what we are due. The issue remains in relation to warranty rights and service from the dealer that the bike was puchased from, particularly when other dealers will no longer deal with warranty matters relating to bikes that were not purchased from them.

That warranty order that I've talked about, that was placed literally a year ago, for a few washers, bearings and a seal... Well, it arrived yesterday Of course the main item required wasn't there (rear axle spacer). etc

Now that the fibre's all blown out, She's become a real scarey rattle-bucket when sitting in traffic. The 'normal' Scura clackety and the Quat's distinctive blat has been joined by extra poppety and percussive slap as the top plate on the Quat beatbox lifts and drops with each pulse. Guzzi rap GguguguzzguGuguzzuzziguzzz i raPp

No. Quite sure it's just wear. not a common complaint, but you're not a common guy

I think that there are lots of us with oil coolers and frames / drain-back lines loaded with sludge as an unfortunate product of many short journeys. Queries and discussion on this before included the notion of removing the oil cooler. Does it follow on from your comments that this would be a good idea, just to get one source of water and emulsion out of the system, even if oil isn't passing through it very often? You're saying that the emulsion terminally damaged the motor?

Grief. That's one big disappointment – aesthetically. MG need to have a look at a couple of the recent threads in this 24/7 forum to get a bit of inspiration, not in The Potatoe Growers' Catalogue. The board wouldn't allow me to post enough exclamation marks in the following quote (You have posted a message with more emoticons that this board allows. Please reduce the number of emoticons you've added to the message – it said) "A true show of class does more than just turn heads. Moto Guzzi shows its sporting soul in its newest naked. This evolved form of the 90° twin cylinder 1200 features new solutions in its design and chassis while giving a new meaning to rider comfort. Just one look at it tells you that it will soon become a cult item :!: for real enthusiasts. The graphics are the same as on competition models, the stylish front discs and the carbon fibre effect :!: exhaust that suggest speed give an immediate impression of the 1200 Sport’s character :!:. The attention to detail is typically Italian and its Moto Guzzi DNA and high-tech injection system make it one of those machines that is best appreciated from the saddle. From here too, its patented handling system :!: can only truly be felt – a perfect blend of incredible performance :!: :!: and the sheer pleasure of riding. Feelings like this can only be experienced aboard a Moto Guzzi and this new model now takes in touring with its high levels of comfort and handling. Like all Moto Guzzi, this machine faithfully follows its rider :!: , it indulges his whims with a spirit that has been guiding it for the past 85 years and has never been stronger. For those of you that would like to have even more performance, Moto Guzzi has designed a dedicated racing kit and for others that would prefer an extra safety margin regardless of the type of road surface, ABS is now an option. There is something to offer everybody a taste of the real feelings that you can only find on a motorcycle - with an eagle on the tank." Didn't they say that the new 1200S would give the BMW 1200 a good and proper hiding? I don't think that I'd back this MG in a boxing match.

This is all going to end very badly.

I G**gled for Lord Hesketh and this image came up: Kinda says it all!

No. I knew that we couldn't compete with David Hasselhoff –– unless someone knows differently? That particular tank sits very well with the frame.

It's a good point Alex, but the advice was given by an Ohlins mechanic, in relation to general street bikes even though he used the race mechanics as an example. I will use Ohlins own oil in the forks, but as far as greasing the legs / seals is concerned, I'm happy with Castrol or whatever other brand of general grease that I already have. Does anyone know otherwise? Has anyone got the Ohlins Red and is aware of any significant difference?

Very interesting, thanks. I'm sure we've all seen loads of stripped threads in aluminium pieces, but probably due to cross-threading or else in items with very little thread depth. My original query was about a car engine block (French), so from what you say, selection of the bolt length there would be determined, in part, according to when thread damage could happen. I.e. if an engine bolt is fully screwed in, and then tightened, something else would give, before the threads would start to strip?

I'm sure that it is leaking all the time, including when you're riding. I don't think that a good fix has been found for this, as you will have noticed in the other threads. The main solution offered is to fill the box with Redline. Bad news – Do a search under 'Moto Guzzi warranty' and you'll find the bad news. Good news – Apart from staining-pollution, the small leak doesn't do any harm.

Yeah you can get better fit by adjusting everything when it's all loose (man). If you don't do this, you can end-up out of line, with parts of the exhaust sitting tight against the motor, as you have experienced. So it should be straight forward – slacken off, adjust (you might need to unleash the brute within), tighten a bit, crtically admire effect, if things are looking dandy then tighten more. Stop tightening before you break something. PS, when I said, adjust everything, when it's all loose, I didn't mean everything and all. Just your exhaust system. From the headers back. Engine and wheels and stuff can stay where they are... ahem

Good advice, thanks.

Hmmm, sounds like the Erin rally.

You mean, butler? I know you're not posh enough to call your serf a sommelier.

You're way off topic, Bendy. That thing ain't got nearly enough pointy-out cylinders for this thread.

The AJS, don't you think?

It's obese.

There's an idea. Must seek some out.

Yeh it would be a hard choice if Santa was offering something from either AJS or else Vincent / Norvin V the fabulous Nogbad will like this one must have inspired Lord Hesketh and this has a certain brutish charm

Unfortunately I didn't. From what I can make out, the older Ohlins manuals recommend springs out, while the newer method is spring in. I measured with spring out, because 1) I looked at the older manual 2) it's hard enough to see the level accurately, even with the spring out. It's more difficult to measure down the side of the spring when it's installed. When refilling I filled to 165mm (spring out). Somewhere in a manual, stock seemed to be 170mm. That can't be right, as you have measured stock gap as 141mm w/o spring (? = 85 with spring in ?). I found the volume of oil in a leg to be slightly over 500ml. When refilling to a gap of 165mm I didn't use as much as 500ml. The various figures that I have noted, from the other suspension thread in particular, don't all equate to each other properly. Could some more people post figures, to get a better picture of what the gap measurement range is? What gap(s) is used at MI (springs out)?

Not yet. It's on one of my many long lists. I did top-up the engine oil today though and was surprised by how much went in, so you were probably right about low level causing the oil light to come on last time.