belfastguzzi

Copycats! We were cosmic first. Need I remind you what it looks like when a gaggle of Tenni Guys get together---->?????

I sent them for cleaning.

Ahh. Yeah. I think I have a fair example!

At last year's Erin, I had an oily rear tyre – as the big bevel box seal burst on the way down and oil kept flinging out onto the tyre. This year, on the way home, the bike was unexpectedly stepping out of line when banked over (e.g. around roundabouts) and it would slide dramatically under heavy braking. When I got home after 300 miles, I saw why. This year's problem was self-generated. Due to the gear-change problem I filled the gearbox to a high level – without taking into consideration that I had fitted an extended breather pipe that leads up to the under-seat area. As it happened, the end of the tube terminated over the rear wheel area... ...so, oil was blowing out and ultimately emptying on to the rear tyre. The tyre did a nice job of flinging lubrication around. The upside is that the shock eye mount didn't suffer any rusting on the journey. Oil came from breather and down this way: Rear end nicely lubed

I used the bike seat as a side stand so that I could work at the transmission cover side. Golden-Pine-woodstain Bodge Point?

It's interesting to hear that. It's the same experience and the same conclusion. After this incident, I resolved to get this magical Redline Heavy as well. When I mentioned it at the Erin though, I was told that it is actually a very light oil (despite its name). ?

sorry, dbd, maybe the post was confusing: I wasn't asking the question, I was just answering it again, having done the work in a 'real-life' situation this time. I just resurrected this thread to say – 'here is the job done, actually by the roadside in real life, with whatever tools I carry on the bike'. It has been discussed before, and I had done the full job at home and posted the process with accompanying pictures – as if it was out at the roadside – but I thought it was interesting to comment on the situation that arose last weekend, and show a picture. The only difference is that I didn't need to replace the spring this time. That's the easy bit anyway. All the nuisance work is getting through the strip-down as far as taking the transmission cover off.

as discussed before – Yes it can be done roadside. Now I've done the dirty business for real though. It's just a pity that the spring turned out not to be broken! The first hundred miles of my journey to the Erin were successive road works and traffic jams. I've never seen the Belfast - Dublin roads so bad. There was much riding in second and third gear through packed traffic. Gear changes got harder, then coming away from first toll approaching Dublin, I couldn't get above second gear at all. Brainwashed by V.11Lemans.com, I naturally assumed the worst. Well, I couldn't quite believe that the spring had broken again, as I've been convinced that the original cause is fixed. However, couldn't see anything else wrong. The shift linkage looked ok. So I went for the internal inspection. The cover's bottom left allen screw, that is pig-difficult to access at the best of times, is now impossible to get at because the Quat-d box inlet pipe stub completely obscures the slight angle of approach past the bracing tube. So header pipe has to come off to allow the box & pipe to be prised down slightly. Access is just possible and I can't be bothered taking the whole Quat box off to make it easier. Anyhows: spring turns out to be fine. What could be balking the up-change? Has anyone found this change mech / gearbox to be sensitive to: oil level oil weight (can of worms) temperature (was getting very little cooling air flow) ? Having lost a few hours by the side of the motorway, I put it all back together and limped on from petrol station to petrol station, vainly looking for gearbox oil. As I couldn't see any other problem, I figured that maybe the oil level was a bit low and causing the problem. Eventually found a coach-hire garage that would dispense some of their gear-oil. Then I realised that there isn't an allen key in the Guzzi tool kit to fit the gearbox filler plug... To be continued elsewhere... But please, any similar experiences or theories on what is wrong? All settings and links look as good as they have been, but maybe it is, in fact, just a simple matter of the linkage adjustments needing to be reset for some reason????

Look so, Officer I'm telling you, there are rain clouds following our every move!

Disgusting ah, that's more like it MB can't wait to get home and tell the Chief Constable about his great idea for a Rapid Response Traffic Cone Unit. Did someone mention BFG's delay on the the way down?

About 6,000 years ago, possibly. Not now. JRT has one, quite similar, that moves when he moves his upper lip.

I took mine (and the solenoid) apart and cleaned and lubed it (not the comm., the other end) because of the screeching that had developed. It stayed quiet for a while, but is screeching again now.

A year or two ago I posted this interesting object. I also couldn't grease the thing. On inspection, I saw that the nipple was blocked. I started pulling the blockage out. What do you make of this?! (Nobody was interested back then, but I feel that at last I might have found someone with an interest in the subject.) and here it is out. Someone has fun fitting these at the factory.

Alarming!

I was wondering about this very thing. Did you get the £60 one, or which?

I cut a 1mm washer / shim to add to axle spacer on my 2002. Prior to that, bearings were wrecked within smallish mileage. Since then, bearings have been ok. Needle roller maybe isn't a priority for the reason that you give – it's just nice to start again with good parts and then try to keep them good. Who knows what the history was before you got the bike? Seems like the start fresh approach would be good with those rear bearings and spacer.

oh yeah, don't forget those sticky stickers

Yeah, as well my clinically sterile rear brake caliper, both ends of the shock are nicely greased and the cush drive / hub internals are a veritable slither of corrosion repellancy. Things have been going bad for Nogbadder ever since he stopped following my maintenance regime. Time to put another coat of paint on the sag, so that it really shines – Nogbad...

Oh yes, I didn't look at that pic before – that's nasty. Martin B: was yours like this too? It's definitely damp, especially heading north. Lots of wet weather directly in off the Atlantic. The other devastating factor is all the road salt that gets spread about every winter. Once corrosion starts to get a hold, things can go downhill badly over the course of one winter.

Forecast for Friday and the weekend is excellent. It'll be as good as last year, or better.

My settings: Spring pre-load: – 2 from centre groove Rebound (stock 13 clicks out) 14 from closed Compression 12 from closed

Cheers, I might e-mail after trying it a bit more, if I can get a bit more of an idea where the problem is and if it's consistent. I did wipe the previous version and then it looked like V7 was going to be ok. But soon it started into the fatal exceptions and reset again.

Not sounding good at all. Did any of the bits look damaged? Is the plastic housing cracked? One last thought: if the gearing is slightly damaged, the plastic parts could be cleaned up a little but also if the worm at the clock end was swapped with the one in the housing, then the good parts might work together with the slightly damaged parts in each end – better than a couple of damaged parts trying to work together, if you see what I mean. Anyway, it's not ideal. You're probably looking at a new part and then making sure that it's firmly stuck together next time.

Is version 7 working ok for anyone? Since upgrading to V7 on T3, I keep getting fatal exceptions when I make a selection and then have to reset. Classifieds

I think your analysis is correct. I also like how your lunch break seems to last for 12 hours. Very civillized.