belfastguzzi

Here is a thread (with nice photos) explaining how to remove the tank form a 1200 Sport. Thought it would be useful somewhere over here. Good stuff, OO I'll add it to the Table of Contents and put the post in the Newer Models sub-forum. This Contents list has been sadly neglected. It was started at the beginning of adding some posts on the CARC models to the V11 Forum: realistically there are now too many to keep updating the Contents list.

the question mark business again? the question mark business, again? The question mark business? Again!

Enzo looks well with a beard.

So, you tried the sheepskin pads too? Yeh, bad mistake: too much rain in Scotland.

You should be able to get it into neutral – at least once the box is opened you can slide everything into the right position. The second post here gives some guidance on doing it and there may be more description in the other topic posts. If you can't find the neutral position, give a shout here again.

Galax, for your own good you need to go back a few years in the Tech Topics forum and study the discussions on the double vortex bi-wired fuel line adaptions to the Infamously sneaky V11 fuel tank. Without doubt you will be able to trace your fueling problems to this design issue. Mostly, fuel gathers in the unusable rear side corner of the fuel tank where it becomes, by definition, unusable. This inevitably leads to problems. Fortunately the Forum can propose one or two super-scientific solutions. However I'm not aware of any trials outside the State of California (where the theories originated) therefore, due to the reverse vortex situation occasioned by the under-equator upside-down hemisphere region, you may need to reverse your tank. once you carry out that modification, your V11 can be deemed, to all intents and purposes, to be a Donkey Kong. Please report back on the speed increases that will inevitably result. Erm, just a thought... as you're experiencing problems... did you at any point install a Roper body in your sump?

I blame Enzo for any deviation. It was Enzo who introduced animals to the Forum. Besides, I think that the topic reads better if you substitute the word 'penguin' for 'filter' or 'air intake'. it kinda helps make sense of what has now become known as 'the Australian (penguin) Incident' too - and the strange disappearance of Pete Roper. This is a little dull and non-sensical:

The Holland pinkyin is seriously off-topic.

It wasn't easy, I can tell you, but I got there I'm the end: every word accounted for. What's more, it's all true!

Gracious! Heaven forfend. Could such a thing even be possible? Let me consult the abacus frame, or, 'calculating table'.

Yep. That's only in the northern hemisphere. South of the equator, the lumpen so-called fly wheel spins the other way. s+PiN ≥ 2y /H20 - XOX = Coriolis Force MG never factored this into their engineering , so the springs keep breaking (see Tech Topics, How To, FAQ etc for proof). The same natural physics are responsible for the phenomenal speed of the West Cal Guzzi: it has a head start over our northerly barbarian bikes, as the equatorial middle-earth is turning at 1,040 miles per hour. The very same natural physics also determine that Enzo is onto a loser trying to balance his throttle bodies – unless he only rides the Donkey in a vertical direction from South to North, or alternatively, form North to South. Any lateral deviation will mean that one side of the Donkey is further away from the equator than the other and so the air entering either TB will be moving at different speeds and be at different pressures – all exacerbated by the fitting of custom gargantuan collector appendages to the TBs. A solution may be to plumb whichever is the far-side gargantuan air probe directly into the muffler outlet. That would compensate for any disproportion in air speed and pressure. In practice, a real-world approach would need to be taken, linking the inlet-outlet on whichever side would be statistically most in a northerly position on any given trip.

erm... *thinks*

No. But I thought it was just 2002 bikes had wrong size post? The springs break anyway. Seems to me that it just happens a lot quicker on the 2002 bikes that have the wrong sized parts (mine went after only 1k miles from new). Chances are that the Ballabio spring has gone the natural way of all the other broken springs (if that's what has indeed happened). Sctt, you'll most likely only need a new spring, not the arm. As Baldini says, the arm/boss is probably the correct size. A new spring will (should) have a bigger coil anyway, to work with the bad arm as well as a good one.

Thanks, Guy. Looks like I should join MAG.

Good observation. I must have needed the clearance to get something off: the starter? It's the Quat header, which has a different bend than the stock V11 pipe. The standard MG header doesn't have to be removed.

Programme on BBC4 now brings back great memories. A documentary on sculptor, David Nash: one of the new nature/landscape artists of the late sixties/seventies (through to now). He bought a dis-used chapel, Capel Rhiw, in Blaenau Ffestiniog (the wettest place/highest rainfall in wet Wales) and built it as a home and studio. I stayed there for a week in 1978. He wasn't around much because he was busy with filming – and here in the doc is archive from that very film. Pictures of the Chapel and the great slate mines of Blaenau, exactly as I remember. The chapel space, wood, great boughs of wood; the Tripod, the Running Table; slate. The other important part of that great 1978 memory was a marvellous bike trip, with the Blaenau visit in the middle. Honda XL250 trail bike, rucsack strapped on the back, packed with minimal gear of small tent, food and thin down sleeping bag. A weekend camping and climbing in the Lake District; down into Wales, riding through the mountains; camping down by rivers, waking early, damp and riding cold 'til the sun would warm the air, then stopping to spread matted sleeping bag and clothes to be revived by sun-ray. Opening clink of steel Optimus box preceding the hiss and roar of the petrol stove. Single cylinder bike, knobbly tyres, canvas and down, wood, water, stone, air, steel and brass and petrol, a fork, a spoon, a map. Some photos in a box now and happy surprise of switching on midnight tv, into an expanse of something rare: mostly forgotten, yet it will always be there. Nothing much on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vrQ8I98b9o&feature=related Found this mention on a blog > jamesewin.blogspot.com/2011/02/force-of-nature-sculpture-of-david-nash

quote name= Baldini > "Yah! Bollocks!" /quote http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8umkB46Bvs&feature=related

Busy, editing.

I found this pic that I made once, showing how the parts relate. It's a bit messy! --------------------------------------- I'm still sorting these pics / this topic post. I should probably do a condensed version which just deals with doing the repair, as people have said that it's useful for printing as a worksheet for taking on trips – just in case!

18 When I later got a new spring, I compared it with the repaired, re-bent spring. Old broken spring, repaired. New spring. Repaired broken spring beside a new spring. 19 New spring and new pawl arm, with correct size boss on the other side. New pawl arm boss (15mm) and my filed-down, re-profiled from previously oversized (16mm) boss. 20 View of all the spring contact points. 21 The three gearbox selector springs.

12 The original pawl arm boss that I think caused the failure: it's over 16mm diameter. It should be 15mm. The ratchet arm boss holds the spring coil. I filed down the ratchet boss to just under 15mm, with the boss offset so it is shorter at rear. I forgot to photograph the ratchet arm/boss. New pawl arm boss (15mm) and my filed-down, re-profiled from previously oversized (16mm) boss. 13 Inside coil diameter. 14 Repaired spring. I bent a new hook on broken end and reshaped rest of spring. 15 This is the repaired broken spring on re-profiled shift plate. It worked fine. 16 Spring coil no longer binds. I am confident that the repaired spring would have continued to work fine. 17 Back together and ready to replace.

3 Selector plate off. 4 Original gear oil (1,200 miles). Metallic paste residue that lies in bottom of box after oil is drained off. 5 Oil saved in leant-over box. This is the later 'roadside repair procedure' photo at 1,400 miles. There were a lot of metallic filings in oil again. 6 Broken spring. Hooked end has snapped off. Broken spring end on edge of plate. Spring break at hook bend. 7 Sharp edge of shift plate that spring hook pulls against on downshift. 8 I re-profiled this area of shift plate. Left side cut in to make better seat for spring hook. 9 Broken spring, end bent to form a new hook. 10 Later: a new, full-size spring on my re-shaped plate. It now doesn't seat in the corner. 11 A bit more work was done to better accommodate the new, full-size spring.

Photos from my old Guzzi Repairs web album. I have incorporated the photos from the separate album, which was called, A Roadside Repair Is Possible. A broken spring could be repaired out on the road. Lean the bike over to keep oil in gearbox. The biggest problem is access past the support tube to bottom Allen screws, so it is best to carry a modified Allen key. Carry a spare spring, or if you don't have one, or suffer 2 breaks on a trip (!) vice grips as well as pliers will help to bend the broken spring. If you want to be totally prepared, carry a file incase you need to reduce the pawl arm boss from 16mm to 15mm! (Or pack a spare pawl arm as well as a new spring.) (These photos were taken at 1,200 and 1,400 miles.) 1 Assemble tools appropriate for Guzzi repair. ok... these ones... Tools are easily carried. If no spare spring available, grips are also needed to grasp and bend the broken spring. Allen key. I filed the edges off and cut the short end shorter, to get at lower cover screws. 2 For a roadside repair, the bike would be leaned over to save oil in box. It should be a bit more, but garage space here is too narrow. Actual roadside repair procedure, side of motorway a long way from home (2006 photos)

How To Make Repairs if you don't have new parts. If you do have new parts, the pics here give a guide for checking sizes, fitting and possible re-profiling. Gearbox Pre-Selector Spring, repaired Pawl Arm Boss, resized Shift Plate, re-profiled Spring Repair or Replacement My spring broke at 1,200 miles leaving the box stuck in 4th gear. The spring bend hooks onto and is pulled against a sharp edge. The spring coil tightens and binds on its oversize pawl-arm boss when it is operated. The resulting stress causes the spring to snap. This break may also happen on 'properly sized' parts due to the same stress, but at a higher mileage. I did not have a spare/new spring so I made a repair by bending a hook onto the broken spring and re-shaping the spring coil accordingly. This worked fine. A new spring was fitted later. When doing this, I tried a 'roadside repair' method. This was originally posted as a separate topic. The photos are incorporated together here.

New sized parts have been available for a long time now. The spring has a bigger coil, to allow for the oversized bosses that were on the bad batch of pawl arms. All new springs should have the wider coil, unless you buy from someone who still has very old stocks. If you get a new Pawl Arm, it should have the 15mm boss, not the 16mm boss that appeared around 2002. >> April 2005, Moto Guzzi Technical Bulletin Problem: broken gear change pawl spring Solution: In case of breakage of the pawl spring A in vehicles with frame numbers before KT111435 - KS112350, the pawl B should be changed (when asking for the spare part, you automatically receive the pawl updated version). The change consists in the reduction of the diameter on which the spring rests from 16 mm to 15 mm. Part nos: 04 23 51 01 for the new arm, 04 23 83 00 for the OEM spring. Springs are still breaking, so while it is best to have the correct size of pawl arm and spring, it's not a guarantee that it won't break again. It must just be a flawed design. Here is a summary instruction, previously provided on the Forum. > Box in NEUTRAL. Detach shock reservoir from bracket. Isolate battery. Remove starter motor. Detach neutral switch term. Detach shift link from shaft. Drain gbox oil. Remove 11 (5mm) socket cap bolts. Remove Selector cover plate (there's no gasket, goo holds pretty firm). Remove 2 selector gears (retained by circlips) & mechanism, to access spring. Ensure NEUTRAL in box (check spaces between sliding dogs & gears are equidistant) & in selector before replacing plate. Move the selector forks into the neutral position before replacing the side plate (rotate the rear wheel to confirm neutral - if the plate doesn't go on you've got a false neutral). Main thing is get box in neutral with selector forks equally spaced from sliding sleeves before putting the cover back on. Also, selector wheels in Neutral. There's no gasket on cover. Use sealant/gasket cement. ----------------------------------