belfastguzzi

No, unless you're driving through mud.

I don't think so, it was maybe talk about some of the older models? There were suggestions about putting one in, during the 'watery oil' breather-recirculation system discussion. However, as it is, apparently, a finely tuned and carefully honed system – best leave it as Guzzi intended. ?

These might be slightly better, but still not high resolution I'm afraid.

The infamous, rust-prone needle roller bearing inner ring. I should have known that he was thinking of the edible hula-hoops! (Which are indeed a similar size.) I was thinking of the real/p.roper hoola hoop from the days of yore before kiddies had playstations for their amusement. When getting new bearings, I asked about putting more grease in under the seals. As I expected 'the man' said not to touch it, the bearing is sealed for life and lifting the seal will destroy it. So, should I or shouldn't I? Back to tyres. The Diablo Stradas were gone, so I took Metzeler Roadtecs. Should I have or shouldn't I? Does anyone have experience of both the Strada and the similar Roadtec? Guzzi have gone to the other extreme, fitting the Rennsport to the Griso (I think).

mmm...that big! Did you have iron-shod tyres? Better start a new thread on this one.

Thanks. With my bike doing a lot of short journeys, I get a lot of water sitting in there. I took the banjo off and looked in through the socket on the left. I didn't look at the right side and didn't realise that there is a plug there. Maybe it would be good for draining the water out? What are the Land Rover parts for, originally?

Hmmm.. maybe it was Martin? Somebody's wheel bearings collapsed recently. I really am going to look for the bearing thread. Did it look like this?

At least you didn't say the chrome would all fall off within five years. There's been some loose talk around here lately. Mostly from Nogbad the Bad.

The Secret Thread was the 'Time' thread that Jaap refered to. Sshhhhhh! By the way, have you explained your outrageous parking yet? I'm going to check.

That is the picture that was in MotorCycle News too.

I've just taken my wheels off to leave them in for a pair of Diablo Stradas tomorrow. Thought I might as well change the front wheel bearings while the wheel is out, as people, including you I think, have reported early failure. (Whoops, Baldini has posted before me. This was addressed to Guy). Although they're still rotating ok, there isn't much effective grease in them and water has got in. I think this (front axle) is a case where it makes sense to pack under the new bearing seals with more grease before fitting? I should really find a wheel bearing thread and post there, in case there is any response.

Glad you asked, I was wondering too. Is chronic leaking from one of the banjo unions a general problem? Which one?

What's wrong? Can't you get all those arrows and numbers to stick to your bike?

As per a previous thread, I put a piece of rubber tubing on mine after swapping the springs over. It works a treat. Rob 66239[/snapback] I missed that. I looked for some tube, rubber or otherwise, but didn't have a suitable size to hand. I ruined a perfectly good plastic pen and a few other things before settling on the aluminium. But now we know – use the adjustment scew

Next case! There are so many I don't know where to start! The Case of the Brake Pads wot smelled of Fish – A foul crime, perpetrated by the infamous Guzzi Twins, Docc Real 'n' P.roper. Off with their carburettors! Or The Case of the Tenni that was parked across a race track – Get a search warrant and turn that suede-lined T*n*i Forum over 'til we've got the evidence needed to close it down for good. or what's this, The Case of the Shiney Black Bike that thought it was a Scura and leapt off a dyke Did it jump or was it pushed? Only The Shadow knows, but some say Jaap made the bike do it. Ah. Here, this is the one! Bring me my Pruners of Judgement, for the next case shall be The Case of the Breva Bashers Be upstanding and bring before the beak the brazen bounders who have been bashing the beautiful Breva. What shall be their punishment? Let the Guzzisti decide.

OK I think I'll go for this one. It has 17 fireplaces, which sounds about right. Just hope I don't have to listen to the Tenni Sea Waltz too often.

see the first three photos (without sleeve) – contact is right at the top and that's after giving it a slight bend up.

but, but,, I was waiting for you in the hairdressers!

Yeah, the spring bit is straightforward. The rest was about adjusting the set-up so that there is full, effective operation over the length of idle-lever travel. My bike may just have been particularly badly set-up at the factory though. As Ratchet has explained that there are adjustment screws, this gives scope for a little bit of or lots of or even no at set-up. There's probably variation in cam contact from bike to bike, but what about the height of the contact? Do thay all only scrape along the top of the rotating sleeve, as mine did?

I think I need a bike lift so that I can see up underneath this stuff when working at it or I need to work in daylight.

Ahh. Good man. Have you done this? Can you too idle(!) at 6,000rpm and frighten the neighbours? - Or what sort of rev. range have you got? At least it didn't take too long doing the job. It has taken much longer putting the photos on the web and writing/editing this post. Presumably the yellow paint means that someone went through the motions of setting this up at the factory – setting it up half-*rs*d that is! Groan, snort.

Undoubtedly the fast-idle lever spring is too strong. It won't let the lever stay on. I changed the heavy spring for two lighter springs but I could see that there is more to this than just the spring spec. The whole fast-idle (choke) mechanism is badly set-up. It could justifiably be described as half-a*sed. The handlebar-lever cable pulls on a cam-plate. This rotates and the cam (2) pushes on an accelerator lever pin (1). (3) is a stop-pin that the spring pushes the plate back against. Here the mechanism is in the OFF position. This is the fast-idle lever ON position of the mechanism. The cam face (2) is just about to touch the accelerator (1). The accelerator pin has a rotating sleeve. (3) is the distance that the plate has moved away from the stop-pin. The lever is FULLY ON. (1) is as far as the cam moves against the pin and pushes the accelerator lever. (2) is the full gap between plate and stop-pin. The cam only just touches the accelerator pin at the very end of its sleeve – and this is after I had bent the accelerator lever upwards to allow a little more contact! The full movement of the handlebar fast-idle lever and the cam plate results in only a small movement of the accelerator. The cam face is not in contact with the accelerator for about half its operation. In fact, 20mm of cable movement produces only 2mm of action at the cam/accelerator. I made an aluminium sleeve for the pin, to close the gap between the accelerator pin and the cam face. Fast-idle lever OFF. Plate held back agaist stop-pin by spring(s). The camera actually shows two recessed screws. These might provide some adjustment so that the cam can be better positioned, without having to put an extra sleeve on. Does anyone know? I can't get at the bike out in the dark to try this at the moment. (And it's way past bedtime.) Fast-idle is off. (2) is the stop-pin. With the extra sleeve, the cam is now just about to contact the accelerator (1), right from the beginning of its operation, rather than half-way along. (3) The cable outer does not line-up well with its stop, which could do with being bent into a better position. The fast idle lever is on. The spring is compressed, but balances the friction to hold position. (1) shows the two recessed screws. Do these provide any adjustment? (2) shows the sleeved accelerator-pin and (3) the length of travel the cam now operates effectively over. (4) shows the gap between plate and stop-pin in this ON position and also shows the compressed spring. This is the fast-idle cam plate. It is in the OFF position, against the stop-pin. You can see the bad fit and bad line of the cable. Side-view. Fully ON, with accelerator pin at end of cam on the left side of picture. No labels for these numbers. The fast-idle (choke) lever at the handlebar now operates fully and it stays in position. You could argue that the full-length of operation isn't needed and the original couple of milimetres is enough. Set-up with these modifications, my handlebar lever now smoothly sets the engine speed at anywhere between 1,100 rpm on the clock (lever off) and just under 6,000 rpm on the clock (lever fully on) – and it stays where it's set. Cruise control?

...in fine fettle. On a whim I decided to look at the spring swap idea that others have tried. The V.11 fast idle lever does not stay on, as the spring is too strong – and people often have trouble with the seat-opening latch not functioning efficiently. There is a theory that the seat latch spring was fitted in the place of the fast idle spring and vise-versa. I may be naive, but I still can't believe that this could happen at , though people have found that swapping the springs around does bring an improvement. Looking at my bike, I noticed a few things that could be fixed to make the mechanisms work better. Of course my bike parts may be different to others, but anyway, here's what worked for me. First the easy one: the seat latch. The seat latch operating cable inner is about 5mm too long! No wonder the latch isn't very responsive. So when the key is turned, the latch only starts to operate towards the middle/end of the key-turn. I think that the spring weight is ok, so I kept the spring as fitted. The easy solution is to put a collar on the free end of the cable so that there is no slack and the key will operate the mechanism straight away and open it fully. I used a piece of aluminium. The seat latch now works perfectly. As the whole cable is one piece with fixed nipples and there is no means of adjusting the inner or outer, I suspect that others will be in the same situation: unless there are wild variations in manufacture. Next, the fast idle mechanism...

I can tell you're severely agitated and becoming desperate. If you don't phone me for some counselling I fear you will shortly become completely unhinged. I give 10% discount to Forum members.

I've got a theory that fish stink of brake pads.