belfastguzzi

Here are part numbers, but I don't think that anyone was ever able to get them. A safety/liability issue? > ______________________________________________________________ http://www.ducatisti.co.uk/forum/technical-help/6436-has-anyone-rebuilt-brembo-goldline-caliper.html Parts here? > http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=3017 See here > http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10837&st=15

The conclusion from previous research etc was that there is no rebuild kit available. You need to buy a whole new calliper. (And so do I) Don't know about F08. Tonti front caliper? P32B GOLDLINE

Nah: life's too short. But if you need the Tenni Forum, it's still here >>> http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12226

the sun would always shine on them like today

Nice diagnosis, doctor. I'll keep taking the headache pills and hope for the best. Looking forward to the next oil change already. Thanks Pete. Baldini - thanks for the PM. I'll reply later in the week, as long as there's an internet connection at the country cottage. Taking a few days off after today. I might even post pictures of... country cottage stuff!

No those last pics are the old parts. I'm just reposting them to make a more complete collection. The 2nd photo, the set of parts, is a pic I found on the web once. Maybe Paul M has it on his site? I'm not sure. I need to gather the photos together by subject / part area and put them into separate topics, to build the library on the forum here. Some other day though. Meantime, I thought I'd just add them here, as Pete had already shared some extra photos that help create the picture of how these things are put together and work.

And here is the tensioner and tunnel on the right cylinder, the one that is actually accessible.

The cam and follower/bowl

As Pete shared some pics of the cam box and the tappet bowls, here are a few more, showing how the bowls move in the box as the cam rotates (c.f. Pete's photo). Pete's photo of cam in box and tappets "One of the camboxes. Note how with the cam positioned as it would be at TDC the tops of the cam followers are just proud of the top of the cambox, (These are the things the little pushrods are sitting in and the parts that wear if the cam/tappets fail)." Here are the cam followers/cam bowls at different heights as cam rotates

I've looked into the abyss – and seen a tensioner blade. It's intact. In other words, it is not broken. So that's a good thing but the question remains then: where the heck did the plastic bits in the sump come from? And if some of that stuff is metallic rather than plastic, where did it come from? Here are photos, looking in at the top tip of the plastic tensioner blade. All looks in order... Pete? It's down there screwdriver between chain and tensioner Part no. 26

Exactly and don't I know it, indeed. But you know what Piaggio UK told me (I probably mentioned it before)? P UK told me not to believe anything on the the internet Forums 'cos it's all useless rubbish. They couldn't be more wrong and they are making a big mistake. (Well, lots of big mistakes.) Pete's positive experience of the bikes is both great and frustrating. Frustrating, because that's why I decided to pay big money (more than I've ever paid for a motor vehicle in my life): I expected to be buying that experience. Anyway...

Richard, I looked at that before. All I was going to be allowed for the very low-mileage bike was half its value. I just couldn't contemplate it. I paid full price to buy the bike and none of these problems have been my doing. The factory/importer have taken my money and left me with Grade C junk. To have to personnaly lose even more, because of contemptible Moto Guzzi, is just wrong, wrong, wrong. I don't know what to do, but I've other, different things to worry about at the moment.

No, no NO NO! NO!! NO!!!!!!!

There was a premiere in Belfast a week or two ago. I was too late to get tickets: they sold out quickly. By all accounts it is a very good film.

Oh, you say left cylinder. Why the left? This is it:

Hi Pete the tensioner blade was the only plastic part that I could think of, but I didn't think that it might be broken. – Well, that makes a worrying kind of sense. It could well be the explanation. Which bit is it that gets pushed back and can break? Part 25 or Part 26? Can I see the parts (on either side/cylinder) just by removing the top cover and looking in? It'll be dark by the time I get home, so I'll not try it tonight.

Pete, if you are still around... what do you think of those bits that were in the sump this time (photos a few posts earlier)? Where could they be coming from in the 8V? The previous oil change had steel swarf in it, along with a load of other gunk including plastic! I don't know what this is. I didn't have a magnet, apart from the sump magnet. The bits didn't really seem attracted to that little magnet. They did stick to it, but I think that was just the oil holding them. So I don't think that they are steel, though I'm not totally sure. They were hard and fairly sharp/rough. Alloy? Don't know. The other obvious thing could be carbon, but why would carbon lumps like that be in the oil of a low-mileage engine? What else could it be? What has the oil been like, out from your 8Vs? How can I get Piaggio-Guzzi to take an interest??????????????

Hi Gene, I have used ACF 50 to combat the corrosion and to lubricate, but in that environment, the rust still seems to thrive. I suppose that the rust had already gotten hold in the early days, prior to lubrication. Perhaps Guzzi should apply some at the factory? NO company applies anything that costs money. It is a matter of learning what should have been done for the next time. I don't know if the spark plug tubes aer removable so they can be replaced or repainted. What is ACF 50 ? It's fancy aerospace stuff >> http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.ejdlwmdldgctiiar&pageId=147977 I used Coppaslip first of all: last few times of cleaning the tube I've used the ACF. My reference to Guzzi applying it or any sort of grease at the factory was, of course, a joke (with no possible basis in reality). The tube can be removed. As per my original post, I have turned it upside down as an interim measure and will replace it/them when I can get a new one(s). Looking at a photo of the original boot, I see that it had 3 sealing rings/flanges, rather than 2. MG must have reduced the seal to 2 rings in order to make the blighter 'easier' to remove from the tube.

This one from 2009? http://www.bbc.co.uk/northernireland/nw200/watch/galleries.shtml?v=homepage_promo Orson, you can see the Arch at 1:55

Also, enjoy these: 2010 preview http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHokMFt47K0&feature=youtu.be and review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLJinAiM-BE&feature=related

A post that I found at random, with some more advice: http://www.iomtt.com/Home/Forum/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=139274 The Railway Arch, yes, that would be a favourite... I'm sure that I've posted a photo or two (from the web) of that spot on here before. I'll see if I can find one. Meantime, have a look at this ride round and at 2:08 you can see the bridge and compare it to the locations shown on the map: Church Corner and Black Hill. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImKKQ-HqPUU And this one, racing, at 4:15 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKc7epht9iQ&feature=related

Hi Gene, I have used ACF 50 to combat the corrosion and to lubricate, but in that environment, the rust still seems to thrive. I suppose that the rust had already gotten hold in the early days, prior to lubrication. Perhaps Guzzi should apply some at the factory?

The spark plug boot issue. As you may know from previous discussion, the first plug boots were a troublesome item. They weren't constructed well and sparks could be seen jumping through the boot to the engine head. Another big problem is that the boot jammed tightly in the plug tube and efforts to remove it could tear it and make it un-useable again. An improved design was introduced, but it's still bad. The plug boot effectively becomes locked into the head tube by rust. Water becomes trapped in the double-seal and then the steel tube corrodes and becomes rough and lumpy with rust. This makes the removal of the already tight and sunken plug boot much more difficult as it is physically captured. THe rusty rubber plug boot coming out of the rusty plug tube (the spark plug is far down within the head). rusty tube The ring of rust that is caused by the boot design and holds the plug boot in. The corrosion will eventually destroy the tube. I turned it around so that the rust ring is at the bottom, to slow down the tube's destruction. Must price new ones, or see about getting some made from good stainless. The tube ends have a taper.

The gauze filter wasn't nearly as bad as it was last time, after The Hammer's service. It was covered in gunge and debris then. This time it's fairly clear. I got a new one and put it in now.

Oil dregs debris. Last time I found metal shards and some sort of rubbery or plastic bits. This time: No! There wasn't a spanner in the sump. It's there to give scale, as is the toothbrush, in case some people on here don't know what a spanner is. What do you think?