belfastguzzi

Wondering what length the stick should be? Here's the short answer: When you go to the shop to purchase a stick, the most important thing is to find one you are comfortable with and gives you an acceptable amount of flex. The weight is important, but also important is the curve of the stick - if you are a beginner, you really don't want a stick with too much curve. As for how tall the stick should be, when you are standing in shoes or socks, the stick should come between your chin and nose. I prefer a stick around the top of my breastbone - about an inch or so under my chin. MGNAmen typically prefer a longer stick to reach out and poke the customer away from rushing forwards... More information here. This must be the old 5-speed box he's talking about poking: 'Fatigue...when you are using a short stick-as long as your shifts are short as well...you energy levels should be okay-but if your caught out there on one 200ft rush and trying to come back-especially for little guys-if your stick is to short-you can't get proper hip flexion/extension-and your illipsoas muccles come into play more then your quads and you will find your...blah, blah' BTW, where do you find is the best place on the V.11 to carry your stick?

For non-PC. I have cleaned up the index, from Carl. It's reduced by a third. It was formatted in Word to differentiate v11 from Breva, but this is lost here. A0 Technical Data D fuel system D3 fuel system, cylinder synchronisation 750 breva D3-A fuel system, cylinder synchronisation v1100 D3-B fuel system, cylinder synchronisation E Engine E2 head covers E2-1 engine, head covers, removal - check - reassembly v750 E2-1A engine, head covers, removal - check - reassembly v1100 E3 timing system E3-1 engine, timing system, alternator disassembly v750 E3-1A engine, timing system, alternator disassembly v1100 E3-2 engine, timing system, rev and stroke sensor E3-3 engine, timing system, timing removal v750 E3-3A engine, timing system, timing removal v1100 E3-4 engine, timing system, timing check v750 E3-4A engine, timing system, timing check v1100 E3-5 engine, timing system, timing reassembly v750 E3-5A engine, timing system, timing reassembly v1100 E3-6 engine, timing system, detailed timing check v750 E3-6A engine, timing system, detailed timing check v1100 E3-6B engine, timing system, detailed timing check v1100 california E3-7 engine, timing system, alternator reassembly v750 E3-7A engine, timing system, alternator reassembly v1100 E4 clutch E4-1 engine, clutch, removal v750 E4-1A engine, clutch, removal v1100 E4-2 engine, clutch, check v750 E4-2A engine, clutch, check v1100 E4-3 engine, clutch, reassembly v750 E4-3A engine, clutch, reassembly v1100 E5 flywheel E5-1 engine, flywheel, removal v750 E5-1A engine, flywheel, removal v1100 E5-2 engine, flywheel, check E5-3 engine, flywheel, reassembly v750 E5-3A engine, flywheel, reassembly v1100 E6 engine heads E6-1 engine, engine heads, heads disassembly v750 E6-1A engine, engine heads, heads disassembly v1100 E6-1B engine, engine heads, heads disassembly v1100 california E6-2 engine, engine heads, head valves disassembly v750 E6-2A engine, engine heads, head valves disassembly v1100 E6-3 engine, engine heads, valve guides and valve seats v750 E6-3A engine, engine heads, valve guides and valve seats v1100 E6-3B engine, engine heads, head valves reassembly v1100 E6-5 engine, engine heads, heads reassembly v750 E6-5A engine, engine heads, heads reassembly v1100 california E6-6 engine, engine heads, valve clearance E7 cylinders E7-1 engine, cylinders, removal v750 E7-1A engine, cylinders, removal v1100 E7-2 engine, cylinders, check E7-3 engine, cylinders, reassembly v750 E7-3A engine, cylinders, reassembly v1100 E8 pistons E8-1 engine, pistons, removal v750 E8-1A engine, pistons, removal v1100 E8-2 engine, pistons, check v750 E8-2A engine, pistons, check v1100 E8-3 engine, pistons, reassembly v750 E8-3A engine, pistons, reassembly v1100 E9 compression ring E9-1 engine, compression ring, removal - check - reassembly v750 E9-1A engine, compression ring, removal - check - reassembly v1100 E10 engine block E10-1 engine, engine block, removal E10-2 engine, engine block, check v750 E10-2A engine, engine block, check v1100 E10-3 engine, engine block, reassembly E11 connecting rods E11-1 engine, connecting rods, removal v750 E11-1A engine, connecting rods, removal v1100 E11-2 engine, connecting rods, check E11-3 engine, connecting rods, reassembly v750 E11-3A engine, connecting rods, reassembly v1100 E12 crankshaft E12-1 engine, crankshaft, removal and check v750 E12-1A engine, crankshaft, removal v1100 E12-1B engine, crankshaft, check (flanges ) v1100 E12-1C engine, crankshaft, check (crankshaft ) v1100 E12-1D engine, crankshaft, assembly backlashes (connecting rods) v1100 E12-1E engine, crankshaft, reassembly v1100 E12-1F engine, crankshaft, replacing the seal on flywheel-side flange E13 oil sump E13-1 engine, oil sump, removal and check v750 E13-1A engine, oil sump, removal and check v1100 E13-2 engine, oil sump, reassembly v750 E13-2A engine, oil sump, reassembly v1100 E13-3 engine, oil pump v750 E13-3A engine, oil sump, oil pump v1100 E13-4 engine, oil pump, oil pump check E13-5 engine, oil pump, oil pressure adjustment valve E13-6 engine, oil pump, oil transmitter E13-7 engine, oil sump, oil filter support v1100 F gearbox F1 gearbox, gearbox housing F1-1 gearbox, gearbox housing, removal F1-2 gearbox, gearbox housing, reassembly F2 gearbox, clutch housing F2-1 gearbox, clutch housing, removal F2-2 gearbox, clutch housing, reassembly F3 gearbox, gears v750 F4 gearbox, gears v1100 G transmission G2 transmission, pinion housing G2-1 transmission, pinion housing, removal G2-2 transmission, pinion housing, check G2-3 transmission, pinion housing, reassembly G3 transmission, transmission case G3-1 transmission, transmission case, removal G3-2 transmission, transmission case, check G3-3 transmission, transmission case, pinion - gear meshing (bevel gear set) G3-4 transmission, transmission case, reassembly california

Now show me yours.

I mentioned this one before (last year?) but it still doesn't appear to be published. Anyone seen it in real life, maybe in USA?

Oh oh. Is Badgoosey turning into a... girly ?

That is just the sort of technical advice that you would expect to see in a Guzzi manual.

Maybe I can 'help you out' if you can't pick-up where you left off with that process. Hopefully, once you initiated the order the Apple Store will have your order record and it can be sorted. But if not...p.m. QT Pro does lots of nice stuff and is worth getting.

OK. The pleasures and perils of home mechanicing: looks like I got it wrong the first time round. I've knocked out the new, 'too tight', bearing. Had to take out the rollers and then the shell. I carefully drifted another new roller bearing in, all the time checking that the inner ring would fit freely. This time I didn't knock it right in. The outer face is flush with the drivebox sleeve that the bearing sits in. With the washer sitting on top, the inner ring does not now protrude as far as the outer face of the washer. So, unless it closes-up when the axle bolt is tightened, this means that the inner ring does not press against the swing arm. It is the washer and then the sleeve in the drive box that take the pressure. The inner bearing ring probably remains free to move and to rotate. It seems that when I drove the first bearing right in, it caused some slight damage that was enough to cause a tight fit between the rollers and the inner ring, that would soon have wrecked the whole bearing if I had gone ahead and assembled the wheel like that: possibly leading to the sort of result that Brian reports. Hope this may be useful to someone else doing the job. Can anyone confirm that the needle roller bearing outer face should fit flush with the housing sleeve and that the washer sits proud, with the inner ring slightly inside it? Though N.B., Brian: the inner ring still fits through the washer hole, so 'grinding it down' wasn't a problem in that sense. It didn't make the ring smaller so that it slipped though. At full-size it does slip through anyway. It just shouldn't lock-up tight, it should have a bit of movement, or so it seems at the moment, until someone says otherwise or until I get the whole lot assembled and fitted and maybe observe something different.

I'm confused now – by what you say about problem of the inner 'bearing' (the inner ring) pushing through the washer. The original fit is that it does go through the washer. That wasn't your problem. The face of the inner ring butts against the swing arm (not the washer) – on my bike anyway. Same with the bearing on the other, brake, side. It must be these inner rings and spacers that hold the axle/wheel in place when the swingarm is tightened up on them. Hence the bearing failure that we are getting, from new, when the too-short spacer has been fitted by MG. It seems that normally this inner ring should be static and the needle rollers turn as the axle revolves. Maybe there was a problem with your needle roller cage and it was too tight on the inner ring, either because of rust or bad fitting or some other damage? This comfirms that I should be worried about the new bearing that I fitted. As per the other thread, the bad needle roller bearing was torture to get out. The shell was stuck solid. I eventually got it out in bits and fitted a new bearing. I assumed that it should be knocked in as far as possible, right up to the inner washer. Surely it will move right in when the axle nut is tightened up anyway? When the bearing was out, the inner ring fitted very nicely inside it and turned smoothly. The trouble is that, now that the bearing is fitted in the drive box, the inner ring has to be forced in and is too tight in the rollers. It turns roughly and only with force. This can't be right and your story tells me that this could lead to a similar lock-up. What has gone wrong? It looks like I will have to take the new roller bearing out (which I dread) and try again with another new one. Is the housing too small for the bearing shell? Why is the bearing so tight on the inner sleeve when it is fully inserted?

Yep. This was me. Sort of on the edge of Europe, Al. Looks like exact same problem as hairypony has. I've had 2 failures. One was a cracked stem on a Ducati wheel (possibly the same valve as Guzzi use? Certainly looked like the same material.). The crack is not visible. It allows slow deflation of the tyre. The solution was to replace it with a steel valve. The tyre guy knew what the problem was straight away as he has seen it plenty before. The second problem was when my v.11 tyre deflated on the road. I thought is was a puncture and rode on slowly. Later, on closer inspection I saw that the nut holding the valve to the rim was gone. Valve cap was still on, so only explanation was that the nut split and came off. This allowed the valve to drop into the tyre when enough air had leaked out and then there was rapid deflation. The tyre guy called it magnesium. It looks like some sort of megnesium alloy to me. It's yellowey, not like aluminium. Seems to me that this is the wrong material to use for such an utterly crucial part and that the valves should be changed for stainless steel. PS it seems that those aftermarket caps are bad news for a number of reasons. Back to cheap black plastic indeed.

Brian, as you may know I'm replacing these bearings at the moment and the needle roller bearing has been grief. What are your prices? are these Guzzi prices? they are mad! The needle roller bearing is £2 (I just bought another new one today, just in case). £2 must only be a few dollars? The most expensive part is the inner ring. I got one without the drilled hole, but either way they are the same price: £7. When you say 'inner bearing, you seem to mean that plain inner ring. If you mean one of the ball race inner bearings, they're only £8 anyway. These are SKF, as original. You can't mean $70 for the plain steel ring, can you?

In QuickTime menu > Edit then there is a selection of Enable Tracks, Extract Tracks, Delete Tracks. This is QT 6.5.2 but as far as I remember over recent years all versions have had this feature HOWEVER it may just be with QT Pro. If you are using standard QT player and haven't enabled Pro for the additional editing features then the tracks may not show. For example, the first video on cd2 is 'e2-1.mov'. It has 1 video track and 5 audio tracks, which can all be switched off/on or deleted.

Brilliant Carl. As it's set-up for for the Wintel world, I wanted to ask if anyone could do an index, but I didn't dare. I also found that I have to extract/disable audio tracks as some videos play in 5 languages at once.

You keep your sensitive member out of this forum.

At that point you need to do the diaster adjusment. It's a sensitive adjustment, but critical. Done yours yet JR?

Good thinking

So you don't like 'pretty'. Wait till you see this film I'm writing the book now.

'Cos, being Italian, they're made by ARTISTS – just don't ask what sort of artists

Well, that was a real dog's dinner. Lesson 1: I wish that I had just left the thing in and re-greased it. I knocked out some of the needles but still couldn't get the bearing body to shift. All that happened was that the outside lip bent out. So I knocked out the big bearing on the other side, thinking that it would then be easy to knock the roller bearing out from behind. Took out the long spacer and hammered like crazy at the washer in behind the needle roller, trying to push the lot out. No movement at all. The only thing that happened was the washer got cupped. I was hitting so hard that I was worried about damaging the whole drive casing. Lesson 2: now I know that the washer doesn't come out. It's captive in the housing. I'll have to settle for now having a mashed washer in there for good. I eventually got the bearing body out by chipping, cutting, breaking. Really messy and it took a long time. I put in a new bearing and a new inner sleeve, one without the little hole in it this time. The sleeve doesn't rotate easily. I hope that I haven't damaged the new needle roller when putting it in. I suppose that I'll have to get a new big bearing too, rather than put the other one back. All in all, not a great success. I'd like to hear how others get this bearing out – and I'm sure Nogbad would too.

I'm trying to get that bearing out now – it's torture. Where's BigJ and his big hammer when you need him? No doubt it will be easier the second time. Edit: I kept telling myself I should look to see what method BJ used, but of course I just kept working away with little result. I've looked back at his post now, so will try the bent punch that I should have tried at first. I must say that the bearing really does seem tight though and not as free as BJ found.

Rossi has passed Biaggi.... Gibernau down – out front and caught in the wet... so Barros now 7 seconds in front, Biaggi sticking with Rossi...

Round 2 They're off. Gibernau away and Rossi in 4th...

"What does the bearing spacer you have measure? KB " You're right KB. It measures 1mm too short. I don't have such a thing as a 1mm thick washer (that's also wide enough). So I have cut one from a 1mm steel sheet. I've just put the bearing in. Everything is a tight fit now between the bearings. Well done with the advice. Hopefully the bearing will last more than a thousand miles or so, this time. Needle roller next, but I've had to come as Moto GP just about to start. There they go – Gibernau is away........

Wellllll?

Real motorcyclists don't read books anyway... (only joking Bad Goosey)...they watch... ...this stuff